Pest Control - Pest Control The Organic Way

One of the most difficult things to control in any garden are the many and varied little creatures who appreciate your plants for attributes other than their beauty. Calling in an air strike from a spray gun loaded with noxious, deadly chemicals is pretty effective, but at what price?

Plants managed to survive for a few years before pesticides came onto the scene. So there are other ways of controlling garden pests that are a little less dangerous.

Resistance
A healthy plant has its own defenses against attack, the stronger and healthier the plant the better the defenses. Make sure that you take care of the plant an it will be better prepared to fend off attacks.

Shifting the target
Where possible, move the location of your plants. This can be very effective as the pests that over-winter within the plants proximity will emerge in the spring to find their source of sustenance gone.

Bring in reinforcements
If it's alive then something will like to eat it! Do your best to encourage the right predators and let them take care of the pests for you.

Variety helps the balance
Stick with one type of plant massed into a single area and you are inviting trouble. Vary your planting and this will control the spread of pests.

Physical traps and barriers
It's not subtle but a net can provide 100% security against birds and a slug trap filled with beer will send most of our slimy friends to an early alcoholic demise.

Not for the squeamish
Aphids and other small insects don't react well to being pressed between two fingers and your average slug has little natural resistance to a well placed size 10.

Organic pesticides
As a last resort, a number of substances are acceptable to some organic gardeners. Soft soap in solution contains only natural products and can be quite effective against aphids and other small insects. Other combinations of allowable substances are becoming available as garden centers and companies react to public demand.

Natural Insect Repellent - Repelling Insects The Natural Way

Insects are an natural part of every home. In the air, carpet, counter or cupboard, every home shares it's resources with these tiny, often unseen invaders. Pesticides are available for most common household insect pests, but these potent chemical compounds may be more harmful to you and the environment than the pests.

Here are some natural, non-toxic ways to control household insect pests.

Ants
The first line of defense is to remove the attractants: keep counters free of crumbs and sticky spots. Cover the sugar and put the honey jar in a plastic baggie. Cut off water sources such as drips or dishes left soaking overnight.

If the ant invaders persist, try these simple measures:

• Keep a small spray bottle handy, and spray the ants with a bit of soapy water.
• Set out cucumber peels or slices in the kitchen or at the ants' point of entry. Many ants have a natural aversion to cucumber. Bitter cucumbers work best.
• Leave a few tea bags of mint tea near areas where the ants seem most active. Dry, crushed mint leaves or cloves also work as ant deterrents.
• Trace the ant column back to their point of entry. Set any of the following items at the entry area in a small line, which ants will not cross: cayenne pepper, citrus oil (can be soaked into a piece of string), lemon juice, cinnamon or coffee grounds.
• Mix a half teaspoon each of honey, borox, and aspartame (Equal, Nutrasweet, etc.), in small bottles. Place bottles on their sides, with lids off, in areas of most ant activity. Ants will carry the bait back to their colonies. Important: use indoors only; must be kept away from pets and children.
• Leave a small, low wattage night light on for a few nights in the area of most ant activity. The change in light can disrupt and discourage their foraging patterns.
• Ants on the deck? Slip a few cut up cloves of garlic between the cracks.
• Clove oil-based commercial ant deterrents are available online.
  

Dust Mites
Microscopic dust mites are everywhere in the home - in our beds, clothing, furniture, book shelves and stuffed animals. For people with allergies or asthma, dust mites are a problem.

Here's how to reduce the dust mite population in your home:

• Vacuum mattresses and pillows. For people with sensitivities to dust mite allergens, dust mite bedding is available with zippered, allergen-impermeable encasings designed to block dust mites.
• Wash bedding at 55 degrees centigrade or higher. Detergents and commercial laundry products have no effect on mites unless the water temperature is high.
• Keep books, stuffed animals, throw rugs and laundry hampers out of the bedroom of allergy sufferers. Wash stuffed animals occasionally in hot water.
• Tannic acid neutralizes the allergens in dust mite and animal dander. Dust problem areas with tannic acid powder, available at health food stores and pet centers.
• Cover mattress and pillows with laminated covers which prevent penetration by dust mites. Avoid fabric-covered headboards.
• Cover heating ducts with a filter which can trap tiny dust particles smaller than 10 microns.
• Avoid using humidifiers. Dust mites thrive on warmth and humidity.

Cockroaches
The best defense against cockroaches is a clean kitchen and bathroom. If roaches are a problem in your home or apartment, vacuum well and wash the area with a strong soap. Dispose of the vacuum cleaner bag in a sealed container.

Also try:

• It is a little known fact that roaches like high places. If you put boric acid on TOP of your kitchen cabinets (not inside), if space allows between ceiling and cabinets, the roaches will take the boric acid to their nests, killing all of them. Boric acid is toxic by mouth - keep away from children and pets. more info about boric acid
• Diatomaceous earth is a safe alternative which can be sprinkled in areas where roaches congregate, especially hidden areas such a cabinet tops and behind appliances. Harmless to people, the tiny particles cut the waxy exoskeleton and kills the insect within 48 hours. For a week or so after the treatment, the dehydrating insects will search more actively for water. Therefore, do not be surprised if you see roaches more often after the treatment. Most roaches should be killed within two weeks of application. more info or to purchase
• Catnip is a natural repellent to cockroaches. The active ingredient is nepetalactone, which is non-toxic to humans and pets. Small sachets of catnip can be left in areas of cockroach activity. Catnip can also be simmered in a small amount of water to make a "catnip tea" which can be used as a spray to apply around baseboards and behind counters. This natural repellent should only be used in homes without cats!
• (A site visitor who has tried this sends the following comments)
• Keep a spray bottle of soapy water on hand. Spraying roaches directly with soapy water will kill them.
• In an empty half kilo coffee can, place 1 or 2 pieces of bread which have been soaked thoroughly with beer. Place in areas known to have roach infestations.
• Leave bay leaves, cucumber slices or garlic in the affected area as deterrents.
• The fruit of the Osage orange tree, the hedgeapple, is a natural roach repellent. Leave one hedgeapple per room for effective deterrence up to two months. You can learn more about hedgeapples for pest control at hedgeapple.com.
• Non-toxic roach traps are commercially available.

Fleas
Fleas usually gain entry to your home through your pet or visitors' pets. For every flea on your pet, there may be as many as 30 more in the pet's environment.

Before reaching for pesticides, try these safer choices:

• Bathe and comb your pet regularly. Use mild soap, not insecticides. If fleas are found on the comb, dip the comb in a glass of soapy water.
• Citrus is a natural flea deterrent. Pour a cup of boiling water over a sliced lemon. Include the lemon skin, scored to release more citrus oil. Let this mixture soak overnight, and sponge on your dog to kill fleas instantly.
• Add brewer's yeast and garlic, or apple cider vinegar, to your pets' food. However, it is not advisable to use raw garlic as a food supplement for cats.
• Cedar shampoo, cedar oil and cedar-filled sleeping mats are commercially available. Cedar repells many insects including fleas.
• Fleas in the carpet? The carpet should be thoroughly vacuumed especially in low traffic areas, under furniture, etc. Put flea powder in the vacuum cleaner bag to kill any fleas that you vacuum up, and put the bag in an outdoor garbage bin.
• Trap fleas in your home using a wide, shallow pan half-filled with soapy water. Place it on the floor and shine a lamp over the water. Fleas will jump to the heat of the lamp and land in the water. The detergent breaks the surface tension, preventing the flea from bouncing out.
• In the yard or garden, plant fleabane (Fleabane Daisy Erigeron speciosus) to repel fleas. This is an annual growing 16-24" tall with violet, daisy like flowers.
• Nontoxic flea traps are available commercially.
• Flea Control Nematodes can be used to control fleas in outdoor areas your pets frequent.
  

Mosquitoes
The first line of defense against mosquitos is to seal their point of entry. Mosquitos are most active in the early morning and early evening. They seek areas of still air because they are hampered by breezes. Close windows and doors on the side of your house which are opposite the breeze. Then try:

• The most important measure you can take is to remove standing water sources. Change birdbaths, wading pools and pet's water bowl twice a week. Keep your eavestroughs clean and well-draining. Remove yard items that collect water.
• In a New England Journal of Medicine study, oil of eucalyptus at 30% concentration prevented mosquito bites for 120.1 minutes, while Bite Blocker with 2% soybean oil kept bites away for 96.4 minutes. (the eucalyptus oil must have a minimum of 70% cineole content, the active therapeutic ingredient.) Citronella, a common alternative to DEET, performed poorly, warding off bugs for only 20 minutes.
• If you're using the barbeque, throw a bit of sage or rosemary on the coals to repel mosquitos.
• An effective natural bug repellent, mix one part garlic juice with 5 parts water in a small spray bottle. Shake well before using. Spray lightly on exposed body parts for an effective repellent lasting up to 5 - 6 hours. Strips of cotton cloth can also be dipped in this mixture and hung in areas, such as patios, as a localized deterrent.
• Neem oil is a natural vegetable oil extracted from the Neem tree in India. The leaves, seeds and seed oil of the Neem tree contain sallanin, a compound which has effective mosquito repelling properties. Neem oil is a natural product and is safe to use. Look for new Neem Oil-based commercial products on the market.
• Planting marigolds around your yard works as a natural bug repellent because the flowers give off a fragrance bugs and flying insects do not like.
• Campers often report that the very best mosquito repellent is Avon Skin-So-Soft® bath oil mixed half and half with rubbing alcohol.
• Safe, nontoxic pheromone-based mosquito traps are now commercially available.
  

Is DEET safe?
The active ingredient in most chemical-based mosquito repellents is DEET (N,N-diethyl-meta-toluamide), developed by the US military in the 1940s. This powerful chemical is absorbed readily into the skin, and should be used with caution.

Common side-effects to DEET-based products include rash, swelling, itching and eye-irritation. often due to over-application. For safer use, consider the following:

• The American Academy of Pediatrics recommends that repellents used on children contain no more than 10% DEET. Parents should assist children in applying DEET-based products.
• Lotions can be applied more effectively than sprays. Only a thin layer should be used.
• Be careful to avoid areas near the eyes or mouth.
• Wash skin exposed to DEET after coming in from mosquito areas.
• Minimize exposed skin areas by wearing long-sleeved shirts and long pants, if possible.

Recent research suggests that DEET products, used sparingly for brief periods, are relatively safe. Other research points to toxic encephalopathy associated with use of DEET insect repellents. Experts warn that DEET shouldn’t be used in combination with sun-screen because DEET shouldn’t be reapplied often.

Thai lemon grass
(Cymbopogon citratus) is a natural and effective mosquito repellent. It contains the natural oil, citronella, which is safe and effective; in fact, lemon grass citronella is considered more effective than true citronella as an insect repellent.

You can buy Thai lemon grass at garden centers and supermarkets, and it grows readily into a clump about 30 cm across and about half a metre tall. To use as a mosquito repellent, break a stalk off from the clump, peel off the outer leaves, until you find the scallion-like stem at the base. Bend the stem between your fingers, loosening it, then rub it vigorously between your palms - it will soon become a pulpy, juicy mass. Rub this over all exposed skin, covering thoroughly at least once. You can also make a tincture using alcohol, for spray applications. Plantings around the patio will also help repel mosquitoes.

Flies

• Use mint as a fly repellent. Small sachets of crushed mint can be placed around the home to discourage flies.
• Bay leaves, cloves and eucalyptus wrapped in small cheesecloth squares can be hung by open windows or doors.
• Place a small, open container of sweet basil and clover near pet food or any open food in the house.
  A few drops of eucalyptus oil on a scrap of absorbant cloth will deter flies. Leave in areas where flies are a problem.
  
• You can make your own flypaper with this simple recipe: Mix 1/4 cup syrup, 1 tbsp. granulated sugar and 1 tbsp. brown sugar in a small bowl. Cut strips of brown kraft paper and soak in this mixture. Let dry overnight. To hang, poke a small hole at the top of each strip and hang with string or thread.
• A site visitor suggests a plastic bag filled with water is an effective fly deterrent.
• A site visitor suggests the colour yellow may deter flies.
• Safe, nontoxic, pheromone-based outdoor and indoor fly traps are available.

Other Home Insect Pests

Moths

• Cedar chips in a cheesecloth square, or cedar oil in an absorbent cloth will repel moths. The cedar should be 'aromatic cedar', also referred to as juniper in some areas.
• Homemade moth-repelling sachets can also be made with lavender, rosemary, vetiver and rose petals.
• Dried lemon peels are also a natural moth deterrent - simply toss into clothes chest, or tie in cheesecloth and hang in the closet.
• Natural attractant pheromones have been developed for controlling moths, and are now available as clothes moth traps and pantry moth traps.

Earwigs

• Diatomaceous earth is a safe and effective way to control earwigs in the home. One application in key spots (bathroom, baseboards, window frames) can be a long-term repellent.
• To trap earwigs, spray a newspaper lightly with water, roll it up loosely and secure with a string or rubber band. Place on the ground near earwig activity. The next morning pick up and discard the paper in a sealed container.
• Another method to trap earwigs is to take a shallow, straight-sided container and fill it half full with vegetable oil. Clean the trap daily; the oil can be re-used.

Silverfish
Silverfish prefer damp, warm conditions such as those found around kitchen and bathroom plumbing. Start by vacuuming the area to remove food particles and insect eggs. Silverfish can be easily trapped in small glass containers. Wrap the outside with tape so they can climb up and fall in. They will be trapped inside because they cannot climb smooth surfaces. Drown them in soapy water. The best preventive control is to remedy the damp conditions. Nontoxic silverfish traps are also commercially available.

Organic Pest Control Recipe

Are you interested in "Do it yourself" pest control? Here are some homemade natural pesticide, insecticide, insect repellant, organic pesticide, biocide and fungicide recipes. Organic pest control and pest management techniques are covered, along with several ways to kill powdery mildew on plants.

Repel everything from insects to rabbits, kill mold, fungus or mildew, and exterminate pests... all with natural or organic pesticide alternatives to chemical pesticides.
Garlic for organic gardening pest control, natural pesticide and insect repellent

Garlic pesticide spray
Soak 3 to 4 tablespoons of chopped garlic bulbs in 2 tablespoons of mineral oil for one day. Dissolve 1 tsp of fish emulsion in a half a litre of water and add it to your solution. Stir. Strain liquid and store in a glass container - not metal! Dilute 1 part solution to every 20 parts of water. Kills aphids, mosquitoes, and onion flies.

Garlic pest control and insect repellent

1. If you plant garlic with tomatoes, it will keep away red spider mites.
2. If you plant garlic around fruit trees, it will repel borers.
3. Spray garlic pesticide on sweet potatoes to repel rabbits.
4. Spray ponds with garlic-based oil to kill mosquitoes.

An insect repellent spray made of tomato leaves
Add two litres of water and 1 tablespoon of cornstarch to tomato leaves crushed in your vegetable juicer. Strain it. Keep the unused spray refrigerated. Works good on roses too.

Control Gardening Pest With Insecticidal Soap
Has value against flea beetles, aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, thrips, and whiteflies, sometimes caterpillars and leafhoppers. Insecticidal soap works only on direct contact; spray it right on the target. Combined with horticultural or botanical oils, insecticidal soap manages powdery mildew.

Onion and Mint as bug repellent
Onion and mint are natural flea-beetle repellants.

A natural insecticide product, Pyola™ combines canola oil with pyrethrins. It's effective on beetles, squash bugs, and aphids. Most canola oil comes from genetically engineered canola, so organic vegetable growers should check before using.

• Use caution with broad sprectrum pesticides
• As much as possible, target pests directly to avoid killing beneficial insects.
• Milk as a fungicide?
• An article in New Scientist (10/16/99) related that spraying diluted milk on cucumbers and zucchini killed powdery mildew.
• Boric Acid: Natural Insecticide, Biocide, Fungicide to Control Gardening Pest
• Kills ants, roaches, fleas, ticks, grasshoppers, termites and more! A biocide/fungicide, it kills mold and fungus (also stops body fungus diseases.) Read about its many uses here.

Organic protection from pests

You may have heard of Integrated Pest Management and wondered what it meant. Integrated Pest Management is a fancy way to describe the practice of planning and working in your lawn or garden to prevent weeds and pests, using chemicals only as the last resort. Here are some basic steps:

1. Learn about the plants and the weeds and bugs that affect them.
2. Choose the right plants. Plant native species whenever possible. Native plants are better protected by their own “immune systems” and their relationships with other plants and animals in the area. You may also look for plants that are pest-resistant. Diversifying the garden with a variety of plants will help the plants protect each other from pests. For example, small flowered plants like daisies, mint, and rosemary attract many insects that eat the pests. Check with a local garden shop or nursery for recommendations.
3. Maintain healthy, fertile soil by rotating your plants, adding compost, and mulching.
4. Plant early to avoid the worst bug season.
5. Allow growth of the pests’ natural predators. Ladybugs, ground beetles, and birds eat many pests, and fungi and moss can infect the pests naturally. Spraying chemicals often kills the beneficial bugs too.
6. Get out there and work with your hands! A hoe, spade, and your hands are the best tools to combat weeds. Getting close to your plants will help you identify problems and remove pests and damaged plants by hand. Tilling can eliminate many weeds as well. Pruning plants helps remove diseased parts, leaving the plant's nutrients for the healthy parts. Always prune back to a main branch or stem; leaving "stubs" opens a door for pests.
7. Keep a garden journal in which you record when you see pests, what they look like, what they have done to the plants, and the actions taken. In this way, you will learn what works and what doesn't while experimenting with new techniques.

Organic Pest Control

The keys for natural pest control in your home and in your garden are modification and prevention. In generalities, natural pest control is defined as the use of techniques, products and methods that won't put human health or the environment at risk.

More often than not, very simple changes that you make to your home or garden can drastically change and reduce pest populations on your property. When it comes to natural pest control, the idea is that before you reach for the phone to call an exterminator, or grab a pesticide and spray it yourself, you can take steps to get rid of the problem in a far less invasive way.

First and foremost, you should monitor the pest problem. Find out what they are, where they are entering and exiting your home and what they are feeding on. Once you have a better understanding of the pest or pests you are dealing with, you can better make a determination on how to deal with the problem.

Modification is important when it comes to a pest's ability to enter and exit your home. Do structural repairs as they are needed, like caulking cracks in the foundation, making certain that windows and doors are sealing properly and repairing damaged or missing screens. If the pest's are in the habit of getting in through crevices and open doors, modify those habits by sealing them off.

Many pests are attracted to spills like greasy or sugary liquids, poorly stored pet food, and uncovered garbage. Eliminating the possibility of food sources for many outdoor and indoor pests can often eliminate the pest problem.

Prevention comes when you continue upkeep of structural repairs, maintain proper sanitation and housekeeping practices, and keep food storage well sealed.

Although these practices aren't fool proof ways to ensure that you will have no problems with pest infestations, natural pest control practices do help in reducing the possibility without increasing your potential for harm by using chemicals and pesticides.

Growing Herbs Organically

People choose to grow herbs because of limited gardening space and the need for fresh herbs But before rushing out to the nearest garden center, consider several factors.

• Are culinary herbs the only consideration?
• Would herbs that traditionally are used to heal be included?
• Do native herbs appeal or have a place in the landscape?
• Has the mature size of the herb been investigated?
• Is a plot available, or will the plants always live in pots?
• Are the plants to be propagated for sale, or are they only for home use?

Visit garden centers and friends who have mature herb plants, study herb magazines, and read herb books. With the exception of native herbs, the soil where the herbs are to flourish should be soft, dark and rich. Some culinary herbs need more moisture and less heat than others. Most native herbs need a dry soil and welcome the sun. If planning formal herb gardens, prepare the bed at least a month before planting. Work the soil in the beds to a third of a meter deep or more, turning the soil. Then remove the soil, divide it in half and mix compost with the remainder. Add a small amount of manure to the soil and compost material. Mix well before filling the bed.

If the plot chosen has never been broken and is hard and dry, loosen the particles and allow water to penetrate the hardpan, water it liberally, let it set for 2 or 3 weeks, watering occasionally. The soil will be easier to dig. After the soil has been removed, layer the bottom of the bed with a layer of well-rotted manure. Various kinds of nutrients can be added to the mixture. Use small amounts of soil sulphur to break up heavy soil, kelp or fish meal adds nitrogen and phosphoric acid and potash, bloodmeal is a slow nitrogen release, bonemeal for root growth has 10% phosphoric acid for sturdy root development, soft rock phosphate promotes strong roots and vigorous top growth, and cottonseed meal adds nitrogen, phosphate and potassium.

Choose an irrigation system. Install it before planting seedlings or seeds. Annuals will need regular moisture, but perennials will establish deep roots after the first year. Wind dries the soil quickly, and seeds must be sprinkled several times a day, or the seeds will not germinate. Young plants are very tender, so seeds should be sown in the early spring. Birds love fresh greens! To avoid stress on seedlings, plant in an evening or on an overcast windless day. Using a row cover will also help the young plants survive.

For filling pots, buy the best soil mix available. Potted herbs will need frequent watering and fertilizing. A layer of mulch over the soil will help retain moisture. Follow the garden center's advice when transplanting native plants. A drip system can be established to meet the plants requirements. Set several filled pots near each other, making sure the various herbs are compatible.

Plants such as basil and parsley, whose leaves are constantly being removed, need a foiliar feed with a good quality fish emulsion every two or three weeks. Also herbs such as basil and the mints will need the flower tips pinched off, so the plant will continue growing new leaves and not go to seed.
Since the leaves and/or flowers are to be eaten, use caution about controlling pests. Herbs have strong scents and are used as companion plants for vegetables, but when they live alone, the pest could destroy the herbs. Some herbs are subject to root rot.

Mediterranean culinary herbs will need afternoon shade, and attention to moisture needs, especially until well established. Dill and fennel are among those herbs that will reseed year after year. Let some plants flower to attract bees and other beneficial insects. Parsley, dill, fennel, and lemon balm attract bees. Experiment with herbs those herbs that would not grow this year might flourish next year. Weather conditions cannot be predicted from year to year. And don't forget have fun!

ANISE HYSSOP is known as the honey plant because bees are attracted to the blossoms. The perennial can be started from seed or division. It needs a sunny well drained spot, fertile soil, and regular moisture to thrive. Leaves can be used either fresh or dried for tea or garnish.

BASIL is a fast-growing annual that can reach nearly a meter high. Prune to keep the plant bushy. Green ruffled leaves, red or purple leaves, and various flavors and scents are available. The leaves can be dried, or frozen for future use. Plant from seed when the ground is warm. It needs well-drained rich soil and compost.

If you have space, plant a BAY tree. At maturity it is 4 meters high, but can be can be potted and pruned. Since it prefers moist heat, give it dappled shade. Leaves can be dried and stored for soups and stews or used as insect repellent.

BEE BALM is known by many names: bergamot, monarda, and Oswego tea are a few. Hummingbirds and butterflies are attracted to the flowers. This perennial likes a moist soil and summer shade. Use the orange-flovored leaves fresh or dried in tea and salads.

BORAGE can grow to a meter high and wide. Since the leaves have bristly white hairs, plant it in a corner. Bees love the blue scentless flower. Borage repels insects and diseases in neighboring vegetation Use the young leaves and the flowers in salads..

BURNET leaves have a cucumber-like taste when picked while young. Cut the flower stems to ensure new leaves. This hardy perennial needs routine water and fertile soil with dappled shade. The lacy clumps reach a foot high and two feet wide, and can be used as ground cover or for borders. Use in salads, iced or hot tea, herb butters, and flavored vinegars.

CHAMOMILE comes in two forms. One, German (Matricaria recutita) is a tall annual, a meter high. Chamaemelum nobile, or Roman, is a short perennial and has a stronger fragrance. Currently it is used as a tea for nerves. The apple scent benefits cucumbers and onions. Both plants like well prepared soil, evenly moist, and shade in the heat.

CHICORY's bright blue flowers can be added to salads, but close after five hours from opening. The perennial reseeds easily, loves rich soil, but will grow in poor soil with less water. Use young tender leaves raw in salads, in cooked vegetables, and stir-fry dishes.

CHIVES are perennials in the desert. The cousins onions, garlic and shallots, contain Allicin, a germ killer. Garlic has the most, then onion, and small amounts in the rest. All species help deter aphids, so they can be planted anywhere in the landscape, except among legumes and sage. Use the flowers, fresh or dried, in salads and vinegars. Chop the leaves into egg dishes.

CILANTRO, the plant, or Coriander, the seeds are used widely The leaves have a strong sharp flavour, and most pests avoid the plants. The flowers attract pollinators. Keep planting seeds every two or three weeks. The plants grow fast in the heat. Use fresh leaves, not dried. Cilantro has long roots and is compatible with caraway. Too much Nitrogen robs the leaves of flavor.

The roots of COMFREY grow deeply, but needs plenty of water and shade. Plants may die back with frost, but roots remain. Bushy to a meter high, with hairy mineral rich leaves which decompose quickly, the plant is not to be eaten. The protein Allantoin, promotes healing to bind cuts. Comfrey can be quite invasive in a small garden and may be best grown in pots.

DILL has feathery foliage reaching a meter high and has a pungent scent when bruised. Sow seeds in full sun at 2 week intervals. It produces seeds the second year of growth. Dill enhances the growth of cabbage, onion and lettuce, but keep away from carrots and tomatoes. Bees will visit the yellow flowers.

Fennel, a relative of dill, grows taller but has a pleasant licorice scent. When fennel flowers, expect many bees. Fennel roots are toxic to many plants. Sow seeds in a corner where weeds might grow. The plants have deterred rabbits in gardens. Keep away from beans and peppers. Fennel tea is used for colicky babies, to soothe the stomach ache, and to regulate appetite.

GARLIC bulbs are grown as an annual, in well-drained soil with full sun and regular moisture. Buy a bulb, separate the cloves, plant base down with roses and other plants that attract aphids. After flowering, leaves turn yellow. Dig with care. Let the bulbs dry. To store, braid the leaves and hang. Elephant garlic has a milder flavor.

LEMON BALM belongs to the mint family, thus it spreads by underground and surface stems. Light shade and moist soil are its two requirements. Beekeepers often have the plant growing near hives. As with mint, cut back the leggy plants for young leaves to grow.

MARJORAM is a mint relative. The leaves and flavor resembles oregano, but has a different aroma. This Mediterranean native likes full sun, well-drained soil and average water requirements. Cut back the twiggy parts to overwinter.

MINTS thrive in part shade and with regular moisture. The roots can be invasive, causing many people to plant mints in pots.. Go lightly with organic matter and manure as these encourage rust. The roots grow rapidly and the plant will get leggy. Sprinkle fresh mint leaves to drive away mice. Mints come in many scents and flavors. Use in iced and hot tea, jelly, vinegars, salads and deserts.

NASTURTIUM flowers brighten winter days, but plants may die in summer's heat. Use both leaves and flowers as the peppery taste adds to salads. The large seeds grow easily. Seedlings do not transplant well. These annuals can vine or grow bushy. Colors range from white to deep orange and double reds. The root system deters some nematodes.

OREGANO can be a low-growing mat or tall bushy plants. Roots spread by underground stems. Dry or freeze the spicy leaf. Oregano prefers a slightly alkaline soil and heat. Plants can be started from seed, from cuttings or from division. The flavour of beans is enhanced when planted near oregano.

PARSLEY clumps make an attractive edging. Its leaves are used in a wide variety of foods, and can be dried or frozen. Good soil with afternoon shade and regular moisture are required.

ROSEMARY has a woody stem which will easily make new plants. The fragrant stiff needle-leaves pierce soft skins of snails and slugs. Use the low-growing variety as a hedge. Soft blue flowers attract bees. Plants can take reflected heat. The upright rosemary is for culinary use.

SAGE encourages the growth of carrots, cabbage, strawberries, and tomatoes, but not onions. Many varieties are available. The plants like full sun and do not require fertile soil. Water only until mature. Cut back in spring to prevent flowering. Use dried leaves in soups and as an insect repellent in flours and meals.

THYME is of the mint family, but needs well-drained soil, moderate watering, and afternoon shade. All varieties benefit eggplant, potatoes and tomatoes. None grow higher than 45 centimeters high. Cabbage worms and whiteflies are repelled. The fragrant blossoms attract bees.

Many gardeners believe, the leaves of YARROW increase the essential oils of other herbs, Its flowers attract predatory wasps and lady beetles. The plants thrive in full sun and poor soil, but will produce more flowers in better soil and moderate moisture. Choose from many varieties.

The Layout of Your Vegetable Garden

Traditionally, vegetable gardens have taken the form of those all too familiar plots of rows that are found in large, open fields or nestled away in the backyard. While this layout was once considered quite popular; times have changed. Large plots often require more attention, and some people don’t have the option of growing vegetables in large plots anymore.

Many of us actually require something taking up less space and less time. There is another alternative, which can be just as effective with an additional bonus - a layout designed for small areas. The layout, which seems to fit the busy person’s lifestyle as well as one that can accommodate those who have limited room for a traditional garden, comes in the form of small beds. These not only save on space but can be helpful to the plants themselves by allowing them to grow closer together, which essentially provides the soil with shade and results in more moisture for the crops and less weed growth for the gardener to deal with.

Beds should not be more than 1 to 1.2 metres in width since your main objective is easy maintenance. Smaller beds allow you to maneuver around the area while watering, weeding, or harvesting. Dividing beds with pathways also will lesson the chances of harming crops by preventing yourself and others from trampling the plants and surrounding soil. Placing plastic or some type of garden sheeting over the paths will also keep weeds out, and adding some type of mulching material or gravels will improve the appearance. You should mulch around crops as well to help them retain moisture.

In arranging the garden bed, plant the early crops in such a way that will allow for other crops to follow once these varieties have faded out. For instance, rather than wait for these earlier crops to die out completely, go ahead and plant the later crops in between beforehand. This technique will help keep the garden alive with continual growth while adding to its appearance.

Keep the taller plants, such as corn, towards the back of your beds or consider placing them in the center with other crops working downward in size. Instead of flat beds, you might consider raised ones that are edged with wood or stone.

You do not necessarily have to limit yourself to beds for a unique vegetable garden. Browse through books, catalogs, or public gardens for new and interesting ideas. Family, friends, and neighbors are also a great source of ideas, and many of them are more than willing to share their successful secrets with others.

There is also the option of growing your vegetable garden strictly in containers. These can be arranged in a number of ways including hanging them from baskets on your porch. Containers can also be moved around with others added as needed. In fact, you could incorporate some containers into your beds for additional interest.

If you happen to live in an area close to wildlife, you might consider surrounding your garden by a fence to keep pesky animals out. A fence also can serve as a trellis for beans, peas, tomatoes, and vine crops that often require support. For just an extra touch of beauty, incorporate flowers and herbs around the outer edges of the garden as well.

How Do You Control Pests and Diseases without Chemicals?

Organic gardening doesn't mean you have to share your apples with the worms, but you will probably have less than pristine looking plants and produce. Since you are trying to garden in cooperation with nature, sometimes you have to accept the occasional pest in the garden. Your first line of defense should be vigilance. Inspect your plants regularly for signs of a problem and take action quickly. Keep in mind that not every insect is a foe and that action doesn't necessarily mean pesticide.

• There are many organic pesticides available, but first make certain that there is a problem and that you know what it is. You can live with a little damage. Some insects, like the 4-lined plant bug, do their damage and then move on for the season.
• Consider if you are having a pest problem because your plants are stressed and don't have the resources to defend themselves.
• Interplanting and diversity will protect you from losing an entire crop to an infestation. Large swaths of a single plant are pretty, but are also a landing strip for interested insects.
• Many insects and larger animals are considered beneficial, preying on the insect pests. Reaching for the spray can every time you see a pest, you will be killing of the beneficials too. Lady bugs and parasitic wasps enjoy an aphid banquet. Birds will munch on grubs. Frogs, lizards and even snakes all contribute to the balance in your garden and prevent a pest population from becoming a problem.
• Barriers prevent problems. Floating row covers prevent moths from landing and laying eggs. Yellow sticky traps can easily catch dozens of flying pests. Foil collars around the base of plants will foil cut worms and many borers.
• There will probably come a time when you will need to apply a pesticide or lose your plants. Organic or natural pesticides can be very effective and are usually less toxic to wildlife, pets and humans than synthetic pesticides. Many organic controls can target specific problems, such as using Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a type of bacteria, that kills caterpillars, but not much else. Just be sure that you know what the problem is before you treat it and that you always follow the label instructions.