Planning a vegetable garden is probably the most important part of your veggie patch. Get the planning wrong and nothing works.........
Here are a few tips of getting it right.
Sun, Sun and More Sun
The most important thing to remember when choosing the location for your vegetable garden is that almost all vegetables require sun to really produce. Try to put your garden in the sunniest spot of your yard.
Access to Water
This might go without saying, but make sure that the location of your vegetable garden has access to water via a hose or sprinkler system. Water is critical in most climates to growing a successful vegetable garden and consistent watering leads to even better results.
Water Drainage
The only thing worse for your vegetable garden than too little water is too much water. Make sure that water drains off the location your planning on using for your vegetable garden because standing water can cause disease and attract unwanted insects.
Monday, December 1, 2008
Tuesday, November 4, 2008
Pest Control - Pest Control The Organic Way
One of the most difficult things to control in any garden are the many and varied little creatures who appreciate your plants for attributes other than their beauty. Calling in an air strike from a spray gun loaded with noxious, deadly chemicals is pretty effective, but at what price?
Plants managed to survive for a few years before pesticides came onto the scene. So there are other ways of controlling garden pests that are a little less dangerous.
Resistance
A healthy plant has its own defenses against attack, the stronger and healthier the plant the better the defenses. Make sure that you take care of the plant an it will be better prepared to fend off attacks.
Shifting the target
Where possible, move the location of your plants. This can be very effective as the pests that over-winter within the plants proximity will emerge in the spring to find their source of sustenance gone.
Bring in reinforcements
If it's alive then something will like to eat it! Do your best to encourage the right predators and let them take care of the pests for you.
Variety helps the balance
Stick with one type of plant massed into a single area and you are inviting trouble. Vary your planting and this will control the spread of pests.
Physical traps and barriers
It's not subtle but a net can provide 100% security against birds and a slug trap filled with beer will send most of our slimy friends to an early alcoholic demise.
Not for the squeamish
Aphids and other small insects don't react well to being pressed between two fingers and your average slug has little natural resistance to a well placed size 10.
Organic pesticides
As a last resort, a number of substances are acceptable to some organic gardeners. Soft soap in solution contains only natural products and can be quite effective against aphids and other small insects. Other combinations of allowable substances are becoming available as garden centers and companies react to public demand.
Plants managed to survive for a few years before pesticides came onto the scene. So there are other ways of controlling garden pests that are a little less dangerous.
Resistance
A healthy plant has its own defenses against attack, the stronger and healthier the plant the better the defenses. Make sure that you take care of the plant an it will be better prepared to fend off attacks.
Shifting the target
Where possible, move the location of your plants. This can be very effective as the pests that over-winter within the plants proximity will emerge in the spring to find their source of sustenance gone.
Bring in reinforcements
If it's alive then something will like to eat it! Do your best to encourage the right predators and let them take care of the pests for you.
Variety helps the balance
Stick with one type of plant massed into a single area and you are inviting trouble. Vary your planting and this will control the spread of pests.
Physical traps and barriers
It's not subtle but a net can provide 100% security against birds and a slug trap filled with beer will send most of our slimy friends to an early alcoholic demise.
Not for the squeamish
Aphids and other small insects don't react well to being pressed between two fingers and your average slug has little natural resistance to a well placed size 10.
Organic pesticides
As a last resort, a number of substances are acceptable to some organic gardeners. Soft soap in solution contains only natural products and can be quite effective against aphids and other small insects. Other combinations of allowable substances are becoming available as garden centers and companies react to public demand.
Natural Insect Repellent - Repelling Insects The Natural Way
Insects are an natural part of every home. In the air, carpet, counter or cupboard, every home shares it's resources with these tiny, often unseen invaders. Pesticides are available for most common household insect pests, but these potent chemical compounds may be more harmful to you and the environment than the pests.
Here are some natural, non-toxic ways to control household insect pests.
Ants
The first line of defense is to remove the attractants: keep counters free of crumbs and sticky spots. Cover the sugar and put the honey jar in a plastic baggie. Cut off water sources such as drips or dishes left soaking overnight.
If the ant invaders persist, try these simple measures:
Microscopic dust mites are everywhere in the home - in our beds, clothing, furniture, book shelves and stuffed animals. For people with allergies or asthma, dust mites are a problem.
Here's how to reduce the dust mite population in your home:
The best defense against cockroaches is a clean kitchen and bathroom. If roaches are a problem in your home or apartment, vacuum well and wash the area with a strong soap. Dispose of the vacuum cleaner bag in a sealed container.
Also try:
Fleas usually gain entry to your home through your pet or visitors' pets. For every flea on your pet, there may be as many as 30 more in the pet's environment.
Before reaching for pesticides, try these safer choices:
The first line of defense against mosquitos is to seal their point of entry. Mosquitos are most active in the early morning and early evening. They seek areas of still air because they are hampered by breezes. Close windows and doors on the side of your house which are opposite the breeze. Then try:
The active ingredient in most chemical-based mosquito repellents is DEET (N,N-diethyl-meta-toluamide), developed by the US military in the 1940s. This powerful chemical is absorbed readily into the skin, and should be used with caution.
Common side-effects to DEET-based products include rash, swelling, itching and eye-irritation. often due to over-application. For safer use, consider the following:
Thai lemon grass
(Cymbopogon citratus) is a natural and effective mosquito repellent. It contains the natural oil, citronella, which is safe and effective; in fact, lemon grass citronella is considered more effective than true citronella as an insect repellent.
You can buy Thai lemon grass at garden centers and supermarkets, and it grows readily into a clump about 30 cm across and about half a metre tall. To use as a mosquito repellent, break a stalk off from the clump, peel off the outer leaves, until you find the scallion-like stem at the base. Bend the stem between your fingers, loosening it, then rub it vigorously between your palms - it will soon become a pulpy, juicy mass. Rub this over all exposed skin, covering thoroughly at least once. You can also make a tincture using alcohol, for spray applications. Plantings around the patio will also help repel mosquitoes.
Flies
Moths
Silverfish prefer damp, warm conditions such as those found around kitchen and bathroom plumbing. Start by vacuuming the area to remove food particles and insect eggs. Silverfish can be easily trapped in small glass containers. Wrap the outside with tape so they can climb up and fall in. They will be trapped inside because they cannot climb smooth surfaces. Drown them in soapy water. The best preventive control is to remedy the damp conditions. Nontoxic silverfish traps are also commercially available.
Here are some natural, non-toxic ways to control household insect pests.
Ants
The first line of defense is to remove the attractants: keep counters free of crumbs and sticky spots. Cover the sugar and put the honey jar in a plastic baggie. Cut off water sources such as drips or dishes left soaking overnight.
If the ant invaders persist, try these simple measures:
- Keep a small spray bottle handy, and spray the ants with a bit of soapy water.
- Set out cucumber peels or slices in the kitchen or at the ants' point of entry. Many ants have a natural aversion to cucumber. Bitter cucumbers work best.
- Leave a few tea bags of mint tea near areas where the ants seem most active. Dry, crushed mint leaves or cloves also work as ant deterrents.
- Trace the ant column back to their point of entry. Set any of the following items at the entry area in a small line, which ants will not cross: cayenne pepper, citrus oil (can be soaked into a piece of string), lemon juice, cinnamon or coffee grounds.
- Mix a half teaspoon each of honey, borox, and aspartame (Equal, Nutrasweet, etc.), in small bottles. Place bottles on their sides, with lids off, in areas of most ant activity. Ants will carry the bait back to their colonies. Important: use indoors only; must be kept away from pets and children.
- Leave a small, low wattage night light on for a few nights in the area of most ant activity. The change in light can disrupt and discourage their foraging patterns.
- Ants on the deck? Slip a few cut up cloves of garlic between the cracks.
- Clove oil-based commercial ant deterrents are available online.
Microscopic dust mites are everywhere in the home - in our beds, clothing, furniture, book shelves and stuffed animals. For people with allergies or asthma, dust mites are a problem.
Here's how to reduce the dust mite population in your home:
- Vacuum mattresses and pillows. For people with sensitivities to dust mite allergens, dust mite bedding is available with zippered, allergen-impermeable encasings designed to block dust mites.
- Wash bedding at 55 degrees centigrade or higher. Detergents and commercial laundry products have no effect on mites unless the water temperature is high.
- Keep books, stuffed animals, throw rugs and laundry hampers out of the bedroom of allergy sufferers. Wash stuffed animals occasionally in hot water.
- Tannic acid neutralizes the allergens in dust mite and animal dander. Dust problem areas with tannic acid powder, available at health food stores and pet centers.
- Cover mattress and pillows with laminated covers which prevent penetration by dust mites. Avoid fabric-covered headboards.
- Cover heating ducts with a filter which can trap tiny dust particles smaller than 10 microns.
- Avoid using humidifiers. Dust mites thrive on warmth and humidity.
The best defense against cockroaches is a clean kitchen and bathroom. If roaches are a problem in your home or apartment, vacuum well and wash the area with a strong soap. Dispose of the vacuum cleaner bag in a sealed container.
Also try:
- It is a little known fact that roaches like high places. If you put boric acid on TOP of your kitchen cabinets (not inside), if space allows between ceiling and cabinets, the roaches will take the boric acid to their nests, killing all of them. Boric acid is toxic by mouth - keep away from children and pets. more info about boric acid
- Diatomaceous earth is a safe alternative which can be sprinkled in areas where roaches congregate, especially hidden areas such a cabinet tops and behind appliances. Harmless to people, the tiny particles cut the waxy exoskeleton and kills the insect within 48 hours. For a week or so after the treatment, the dehydrating insects will search more actively for water. Therefore, do not be surprised if you see roaches more often after the treatment. Most roaches should be killed within two weeks of application. more info or to purchase
- Catnip is a natural repellent to cockroaches. The active ingredient is nepetalactone, which is non-toxic to humans and pets. Small sachets of catnip can be left in areas of cockroach activity. Catnip can also be simmered in a small amount of water to make a "catnip tea" which can be used as a spray to apply around baseboards and behind counters. This natural repellent should only be used in homes without cats!
- (A site visitor who has tried this sends the following comments)
- Keep a spray bottle of soapy water on hand. Spraying roaches directly with soapy water will kill them.
- In an empty half kilo coffee can, place 1 or 2 pieces of bread which have been soaked thoroughly with beer. Place in areas known to have roach infestations.
- Leave bay leaves, cucumber slices or garlic in the affected area as deterrents.
- The fruit of the Osage orange tree, the hedgeapple, is a natural roach repellent. Leave one hedgeapple per room for effective deterrence up to two months. You can learn more about hedgeapples for pest control at hedgeapple.com.
- Non-toxic roach traps are commercially available.
Fleas usually gain entry to your home through your pet or visitors' pets. For every flea on your pet, there may be as many as 30 more in the pet's environment.
Before reaching for pesticides, try these safer choices:
- Bathe and comb your pet regularly. Use mild soap, not insecticides. If fleas are found on the comb, dip the comb in a glass of soapy water.
- Citrus is a natural flea deterrent. Pour a cup of boiling water over a sliced lemon. Include the lemon skin, scored to release more citrus oil. Let this mixture soak overnight, and sponge on your dog to kill fleas instantly.
- Add brewer's yeast and garlic, or apple cider vinegar, to your pets' food. However, it is not advisable to use raw garlic as a food supplement for cats.
- Cedar shampoo, cedar oil and cedar-filled sleeping mats are commercially available. Cedar repells many insects including fleas.
- Fleas in the carpet? The carpet should be thoroughly vacuumed especially in low traffic areas, under furniture, etc. Put flea powder in the vacuum cleaner bag to kill any fleas that you vacuum up, and put the bag in an outdoor garbage bin.
- Trap fleas in your home using a wide, shallow pan half-filled with soapy water. Place it on the floor and shine a lamp over the water. Fleas will jump to the heat of the lamp and land in the water. The detergent breaks the surface tension, preventing the flea from bouncing out.
- In the yard or garden, plant fleabane (Fleabane Daisy Erigeron speciosus) to repel fleas. This is an annual growing 16-24" tall with violet, daisy like flowers.
- Nontoxic flea traps are available commercially.
- Flea Control Nematodes can be used to control fleas in outdoor areas your pets frequent.
The first line of defense against mosquitos is to seal their point of entry. Mosquitos are most active in the early morning and early evening. They seek areas of still air because they are hampered by breezes. Close windows and doors on the side of your house which are opposite the breeze. Then try:
- The most important measure you can take is to remove standing water sources. Change birdbaths, wading pools and pet's water bowl twice a week. Keep your eavestroughs clean and well-draining. Remove yard items that collect water.
- In a New England Journal of Medicine study, oil of eucalyptus at 30% concentration prevented mosquito bites for 120.1 minutes, while Bite Blocker with 2% soybean oil kept bites away for 96.4 minutes. (the eucalyptus oil must have a minimum of 70% cineole content, the active therapeutic ingredient.) Citronella, a common alternative to DEET, performed poorly, warding off bugs for only 20 minutes.
- If you're using the barbeque, throw a bit of sage or rosemary on the coals to repel mosquitos.
- An effective natural bug repellent, mix one part garlic juice with 5 parts water in a small spray bottle. Shake well before using. Spray lightly on exposed body parts for an effective repellent lasting up to 5 - 6 hours. Strips of cotton cloth can also be dipped in this mixture and hung in areas, such as patios, as a localized deterrent.
- Neem oil is a natural vegetable oil extracted from the Neem tree in India. The leaves, seeds and seed oil of the Neem tree contain sallanin, a compound which has effective mosquito repelling properties. Neem oil is a natural product and is safe to use. Look for new Neem Oil-based commercial products on the market.
- Planting marigolds around your yard works as a natural bug repellent because the flowers give off a fragrance bugs and flying insects do not like.
- Campers often report that the very best mosquito repellent is Avon Skin-So-Soft® bath oil mixed half and half with rubbing alcohol.
- Safe, nontoxic pheromone-based mosquito traps are now commercially available.
The active ingredient in most chemical-based mosquito repellents is DEET (N,N-diethyl-meta-toluamide), developed by the US military in the 1940s. This powerful chemical is absorbed readily into the skin, and should be used with caution.
Common side-effects to DEET-based products include rash, swelling, itching and eye-irritation. often due to over-application. For safer use, consider the following:
- The American Academy of Pediatrics recommends that repellents used on children contain no more than 10% DEET. Parents should assist children in applying DEET-based products.
- Lotions can be applied more effectively than sprays. Only a thin layer should be used.
- Be careful to avoid areas near the eyes or mouth.
- Wash skin exposed to DEET after coming in from mosquito areas.
- Minimize exposed skin areas by wearing long-sleeved shirts and long pants, if possible.
Thai lemon grass
(Cymbopogon citratus) is a natural and effective mosquito repellent. It contains the natural oil, citronella, which is safe and effective; in fact, lemon grass citronella is considered more effective than true citronella as an insect repellent.
You can buy Thai lemon grass at garden centers and supermarkets, and it grows readily into a clump about 30 cm across and about half a metre tall. To use as a mosquito repellent, break a stalk off from the clump, peel off the outer leaves, until you find the scallion-like stem at the base. Bend the stem between your fingers, loosening it, then rub it vigorously between your palms - it will soon become a pulpy, juicy mass. Rub this over all exposed skin, covering thoroughly at least once. You can also make a tincture using alcohol, for spray applications. Plantings around the patio will also help repel mosquitoes.
Flies
- Use mint as a fly repellent. Small sachets of crushed mint can be placed around the home to discourage flies.
- Bay leaves, cloves and eucalyptus wrapped in small cheesecloth squares can be hung by open windows or doors.
- Place a small, open container of sweet basil and clover near pet food or any open food in the house.
A few drops of eucalyptus oil on a scrap of absorbant cloth will deter flies. Leave in areas where flies are a problem. - You can make your own flypaper with this simple recipe: Mix 1/4 cup syrup, 1 tbsp. granulated sugar and 1 tbsp. brown sugar in a small bowl. Cut strips of brown kraft paper and soak in this mixture. Let dry overnight. To hang, poke a small hole at the top of each strip and hang with string or thread.
- A site visitor suggests a plastic bag filled with water is an effective fly deterrent.
- A site visitor suggests the colour yellow may deter flies.
- Safe, nontoxic, pheromone-based outdoor and indoor fly traps are available.
Moths
- Cedar chips in a cheesecloth square, or cedar oil in an absorbent cloth will repel moths. The cedar should be 'aromatic cedar', also referred to as juniper in some areas.
- Homemade moth-repelling sachets can also be made with lavender, rosemary, vetiver and rose petals.
- Dried lemon peels are also a natural moth deterrent - simply toss into clothes chest, or tie in cheesecloth and hang in the closet.
- Natural attractant pheromones have been developed for controlling moths, and are now available as clothes moth traps and pantry moth traps.
- Diatomaceous earth is a safe and effective way to control earwigs in the home. One application in key spots (bathroom, baseboards, window frames) can be a long-term repellent.
- To trap earwigs, spray a newspaper lightly with water, roll it up loosely and secure with a string or rubber band. Place on the ground near earwig activity. The next morning pick up and discard the paper in a sealed container.
- Another method to trap earwigs is to take a shallow, straight-sided container and fill it half full with vegetable oil. Clean the trap daily; the oil can be re-used.
Silverfish prefer damp, warm conditions such as those found around kitchen and bathroom plumbing. Start by vacuuming the area to remove food particles and insect eggs. Silverfish can be easily trapped in small glass containers. Wrap the outside with tape so they can climb up and fall in. They will be trapped inside because they cannot climb smooth surfaces. Drown them in soapy water. The best preventive control is to remedy the damp conditions. Nontoxic silverfish traps are also commercially available.
Organic Pest Control Recipe
Are you interested in "Do it yourself" pest control? Here are some homemade natural pesticide, insecticide, insect repellant, organic pesticide, biocide and fungicide recipes. Organic pest control and pest management techniques are covered, along with several ways to kill powdery mildew on plants.
Repel everything from insects to rabbits, kill mold, fungus or mildew, and exterminate pests... all with natural or organic pesticide alternatives to chemical pesticides.
Garlic for organic gardening pest control, natural pesticide and insect repellent
Garlic pesticide spray
Soak 3 to 4 tablespoons of chopped garlic bulbs in 2 tablespoons of mineral oil for one day. Dissolve 1 tsp of fish emulsion in a half a litre of water and add it to your solution. Stir. Strain liquid and store in a glass container - not metal! Dilute 1 part solution to every 20 parts of water. Kills aphids, mosquitoes, and onion flies.
Garlic pest control and insect repellent
Add two litres of water and 1 tablespoon of cornstarch to tomato leaves crushed in your vegetable juicer. Strain it. Keep the unused spray refrigerated. Works good on roses too.
Control Gardening Pest With Insecticidal Soap
Has value against flea beetles, aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, thrips, and whiteflies, sometimes caterpillars and leafhoppers. Insecticidal soap works only on direct contact; spray it right on the target. Combined with horticultural or botanical oils, insecticidal soap manages powdery mildew.
Onion and Mint as bug repellent
Onion and mint are natural flea-beetle repellants.
A natural insecticide product, Pyola™ combines canola oil with pyrethrins. It's effective on beetles, squash bugs, and aphids. Most canola oil comes from genetically engineered canola, so organic vegetable growers should check before using.
Repel everything from insects to rabbits, kill mold, fungus or mildew, and exterminate pests... all with natural or organic pesticide alternatives to chemical pesticides.
Garlic for organic gardening pest control, natural pesticide and insect repellent
Garlic pesticide spray
Soak 3 to 4 tablespoons of chopped garlic bulbs in 2 tablespoons of mineral oil for one day. Dissolve 1 tsp of fish emulsion in a half a litre of water and add it to your solution. Stir. Strain liquid and store in a glass container - not metal! Dilute 1 part solution to every 20 parts of water. Kills aphids, mosquitoes, and onion flies.
Garlic pest control and insect repellent
- If you plant garlic with tomatoes, it will keep away red spider mites.
- If you plant garlic around fruit trees, it will repel borers.
- Spray garlic pesticide on sweet potatoes to repel rabbits.
- Spray ponds with garlic-based oil to kill mosquitoes.
Add two litres of water and 1 tablespoon of cornstarch to tomato leaves crushed in your vegetable juicer. Strain it. Keep the unused spray refrigerated. Works good on roses too.
Control Gardening Pest With Insecticidal Soap
Has value against flea beetles, aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, thrips, and whiteflies, sometimes caterpillars and leafhoppers. Insecticidal soap works only on direct contact; spray it right on the target. Combined with horticultural or botanical oils, insecticidal soap manages powdery mildew.
Onion and Mint as bug repellent
Onion and mint are natural flea-beetle repellants.
A natural insecticide product, Pyola™ combines canola oil with pyrethrins. It's effective on beetles, squash bugs, and aphids. Most canola oil comes from genetically engineered canola, so organic vegetable growers should check before using.
- Use caution with broad sprectrum pesticides
- As much as possible, target pests directly to avoid killing beneficial insects.
- Milk as a fungicide?
- An article in New Scientist (10/16/99) related that spraying diluted milk on cucumbers and zucchini killed powdery mildew.
- Boric Acid: Natural Insecticide, Biocide, Fungicide to Control Gardening Pest
- Kills ants, roaches, fleas, ticks, grasshoppers, termites and more! A biocide/fungicide, it kills mold and fungus (also stops body fungus diseases.) Read about its many uses here.
Monday, November 3, 2008
Buy or make your own compost?
The debate is on........ buy an organic compost or make your own?
If you listen to the die hard organic's out there (& I'm one of them), making your own compost is really the only way to go. It delivers huge satisfaction of seeing your seedlings grow in your own compost; eating vegetables that have come out of your own soil. If you are looking for a recipe for making your own organic compost, look down the right of this page for some links (or just click here if you want to go directly there)
As well as gets rid of all this pesky cuttings, grass clippings and a whole range of other garden and kitchen related things without contributing to the land fill problems associated to built-up areas.
It takes time to make your own compost, but it's time well spent and the rewards are huge.
But, what if you don't have the time (or you don't have the space)? What are you to do on a balcony or in an apartment complex?
Well, if you live in Johannesburg, Pikitup (our local refuse removers) have been working on a solution for about a year now.
Quoted directly from the Pikitup website:
The compost is made from your garden waste (that you religiously trailer to the "dump").
So, if you don't have the time, the inclination, the space to make your own compost, you can now feed your organic moster by buying local and help to keep your environment clean.
If you listen to the die hard organic's out there (& I'm one of them), making your own compost is really the only way to go. It delivers huge satisfaction of seeing your seedlings grow in your own compost; eating vegetables that have come out of your own soil. If you are looking for a recipe for making your own organic compost, look down the right of this page for some links (or just click here if you want to go directly there)
As well as gets rid of all this pesky cuttings, grass clippings and a whole range of other garden and kitchen related things without contributing to the land fill problems associated to built-up areas.
It takes time to make your own compost, but it's time well spent and the rewards are huge.
But, what if you don't have the time (or you don't have the space)? What are you to do on a balcony or in an apartment complex?
Well, if you live in Johannesburg, Pikitup (our local refuse removers) have been working on a solution for about a year now.
Quoted directly from the Pikitup website:
- Pikitup has launched several sustainable development initiatives in line with the global aims of the 2002 World Summit on Sustainable Development. One of these initiatives is Pikitup’s composting plant, situated at the Panorama site in Roodepoort. The composting plant processes green waste into soil-enhancing compost, which is sold to either the agricultural sector or to city homeowners for use in suburban gardens.
The compost is made from your garden waste (that you religiously trailer to the "dump").
So, if you don't have the time, the inclination, the space to make your own compost, you can now feed your organic moster by buying local and help to keep your environment clean.
Wednesday, October 29, 2008
Composting tips
There are lots of innovative things you can do to help reduce your rubbish - check out some of the tips below to get started.
Tips about what can and can't be composted:
Tips about what can and can't be composted:
- Shredded paper can be composted.
- Paper can't be recycled if it's contaminated with food, but it can be composted. Next time you have pizza, don't dump the boxes in the rubbish bin - soak the box, break it into pieces and add it to your compost bin instead.
- Kids' lunches can be wrapped in paper instead of cling wrap. The used paper can be put in the compost.
- Compostable kitty litter takes longer to break down than regular compost. Put the kitty litter into a separate compost bin and add an equal amount of soil every time you add more.
- If the prunings from plants and shrubs are small enough they can be run over with the lawn mower and put on the compost heap.
- Don't compost pumpkin seeds. They often don't work very well in the compost - too hard for worms and they sprout - but they can be cleaned off and saved for salads and lunches.
- For people who don’t have enough garden waste to make their composting bin work effectively, a worm farm may be a better option.
- Worm farms take very little space and maintenance, and are a great way to get rid of most compostable food scraps. The 'juice' is really powerful as a fertilizer.
- Buy two bins for the kitchen: one for rubbish, the other for compost. This will remove the need to separate compostable waste from non-compostable waste later on.
- A compost bucket can get messy and smelly. An easy way to keep a bucket clean is to put water in the bucket before adding scraps. (The water can be emptied on to pot plants.)
- If you have too much material for your compost bin, stick it in a black plastic household rubbish bag (thin-walled), loosely twist off the opening, and store it beside the compost bin. A few weeks later, the volume of material in the bag will have reduced and you should find worms have made their way in to the bag and started breaking the waste down. The waste can be added to the compost bin when there is room.
- You can compost directly into the garden itself. The vegetables will love you for it, and the compost will attract the worms to that area and the soil benefits directly.
- If your compost bin starts to smell offensively give it a turn - odour can be a sign of a lack of aeration.
- Contribute your organic matter to a neighbour’s compost if you don’t have one, or invest in a worm farm.
Growing Garlic At Home - Co-Planting
What Is Co-Planting?
The term co-planting ("companion planting") refers to growing different plants together with mutual benefits to both. Garlic is an especially friendly plant and can assist other crops in a variety of ways. Not only does growing garlic result in your own crop for the kitchen, it can assist the rest of your garden.
The main benefits of garlic to the home gardener are its natural fungicidal and pesticidal properties. These can help keep neighbouring plants healthy.
The powerful antibiotic and antifungal compound allicin is released when garlic cloves are crushed. This also occurs when the clove is bitten into. Thus pests attacking garlic are likely to release its natural pesticide. Some have speculated that allicin evolved this way as a defence mechanism for the crop.
Garlic co-planting is especially beneficial to lettuce (where it deters aphids) and cabbage (deterring many common pests).
As well as protecting other plants garlic can also improve their flavour. Beets and cabbage are reported to be especially good companions that benefit from this.
Not all companion planting combinations are beneficial. Garlic doesn't seem to cooperate well with legumes (beans and pulses), peas or potatoes. Try not to plant these too near your garlic.
As well as co-planting the cloves themselves, you can use garlic extracts to protect other crops. There is a long tradition of treating plants with garlic solution. Recently, scientists at Newcastle University confirmed scientifically that garlic oil is effective at repelling and even killing snails and slugs.
These properties make garlic an excellent choice for the gardener who wants to avoid artificial chemicals and prefers to grow crops as near organically as possible.
The term co-planting ("companion planting") refers to growing different plants together with mutual benefits to both. Garlic is an especially friendly plant and can assist other crops in a variety of ways. Not only does growing garlic result in your own crop for the kitchen, it can assist the rest of your garden.
The main benefits of garlic to the home gardener are its natural fungicidal and pesticidal properties. These can help keep neighbouring plants healthy.
The powerful antibiotic and antifungal compound allicin is released when garlic cloves are crushed. This also occurs when the clove is bitten into. Thus pests attacking garlic are likely to release its natural pesticide. Some have speculated that allicin evolved this way as a defence mechanism for the crop.
Garlic co-planting is especially beneficial to lettuce (where it deters aphids) and cabbage (deterring many common pests).
As well as protecting other plants garlic can also improve their flavour. Beets and cabbage are reported to be especially good companions that benefit from this.
Not all companion planting combinations are beneficial. Garlic doesn't seem to cooperate well with legumes (beans and pulses), peas or potatoes. Try not to plant these too near your garlic.
As well as co-planting the cloves themselves, you can use garlic extracts to protect other crops. There is a long tradition of treating plants with garlic solution. Recently, scientists at Newcastle University confirmed scientifically that garlic oil is effective at repelling and even killing snails and slugs.
These properties make garlic an excellent choice for the gardener who wants to avoid artificial chemicals and prefers to grow crops as near organically as possible.
Growing Garlic At Home - Garlic Is Tasty & Healthy
GARLIC is a wonder food - it adds a savoury flavour to a variety of dishes, such as fish, pizza, soup, meat, salads, pasta and even rice, and it is packed with healthy goodness.
Garlic's health benefits include the ability to lower high blood pressure and the risk of illness and infections. It may also cut the risks of heart disease and cancer. It is most beneficial when eaten raw.
The garlic plant has an underground storage head, made up of about 12 separate cloves or bulbs. Unlike onions, which are made up of numerous leaf layers, a garlic clove is made up of a single leaf base.
Called a "stinking rose" by the ancient Greeks, it is a member of the Allium sativum family, a cousin of onions, chives and leeks. Garlic has a powerful, spicy flavour when raw, which mellows considerably when it is cooked. Cooking reduces the plant's benefits. Raw or cooked, however, garlic is known for its strong odour.
When the bulb is crushed or chewed, one of its sulphur compounds, alliin, becomes allicin, the chemical responsible for the typical garlic smell, as well as its health benefits. That smell often lingers on the breath after eating garlic; chewing fresh parsley or a pinch of fennel seeds helps to counteract this. A drop or two of peppermint essential oil on the tongue will also help eliminate bad breath.
These days, the health benefits of garlic are so sought-after, the plant is often consumed in tablet form to promote good health.
Indeed, Reader's Digest's The Healing Power of Vitamins, Minerals and Herbs reports that consuming garlic may prevent hardening of the aorta, the artery that carries oxygenated blood from the heart. This hardening occurs naturally with age. In one study, 200 people took either garlic supplements or a placebo daily for two years. It was found that the aortas of the 70-year-olds in the garlic group were as supple as those of the 55-year-olds who did not take the supplement.
According to the website of Britain's Garlic Information Centre, garlic is "the only antibiotic that can actually kill infecting bacteria and at the same time protect the body from the poisons that are causing the infection".
It also reports that garlic reduces the chances of pre-eclampsia in pregnancy, a serious condition in which blood pressure increases dangerously. Garlic also boosts the foetus's weight during pregnancy, resulting in a heavier baby, it says.
Garlic contains vitamins A, B1, B2 and C, making it helpful in preventing colds and flu. For many years garlic was combined with ginger to treat or prevent influenza. Ginger is a knotted underground stem. Used in sweet and savoury dishes, it is known as a good remedy for digestive problems such as mild indigestion, flatulence, nausea and vomiting.
To store garlic, keep it in a dry, well-ventilated place. However, do not put it in the fridge, as this might cause mould. Planting garlic is easy - and it can be grown successfully in a home garden or backyard. To plant, choose the largest cloves and sow them root end down, standing erect, about 25 millimetres deep. Plant the cloves about 100 millimetres apart.
Garlic prefers growing in cold weather. When the weather is wet towards harvest time, consider lifting them a bit earlier and drying them under cover, or the outer parchment may rot. The better the leaf growth before bulbing starts, the bigger the bulb and the cloves will be.
Cloves planted in early winter will have longer exposure to the cold and will respond to the lengthening days more quickly than those planted later. However, early planting also carries the risk of the cloves rotting in the cold, wet soil.
Garlic's health benefits include the ability to lower high blood pressure and the risk of illness and infections. It may also cut the risks of heart disease and cancer. It is most beneficial when eaten raw.
The garlic plant has an underground storage head, made up of about 12 separate cloves or bulbs. Unlike onions, which are made up of numerous leaf layers, a garlic clove is made up of a single leaf base.
Called a "stinking rose" by the ancient Greeks, it is a member of the Allium sativum family, a cousin of onions, chives and leeks. Garlic has a powerful, spicy flavour when raw, which mellows considerably when it is cooked. Cooking reduces the plant's benefits. Raw or cooked, however, garlic is known for its strong odour.
When the bulb is crushed or chewed, one of its sulphur compounds, alliin, becomes allicin, the chemical responsible for the typical garlic smell, as well as its health benefits. That smell often lingers on the breath after eating garlic; chewing fresh parsley or a pinch of fennel seeds helps to counteract this. A drop or two of peppermint essential oil on the tongue will also help eliminate bad breath.
These days, the health benefits of garlic are so sought-after, the plant is often consumed in tablet form to promote good health.
Indeed, Reader's Digest's The Healing Power of Vitamins, Minerals and Herbs reports that consuming garlic may prevent hardening of the aorta, the artery that carries oxygenated blood from the heart. This hardening occurs naturally with age. In one study, 200 people took either garlic supplements or a placebo daily for two years. It was found that the aortas of the 70-year-olds in the garlic group were as supple as those of the 55-year-olds who did not take the supplement.
According to the website of Britain's Garlic Information Centre, garlic is "the only antibiotic that can actually kill infecting bacteria and at the same time protect the body from the poisons that are causing the infection".
It also reports that garlic reduces the chances of pre-eclampsia in pregnancy, a serious condition in which blood pressure increases dangerously. Garlic also boosts the foetus's weight during pregnancy, resulting in a heavier baby, it says.
Garlic contains vitamins A, B1, B2 and C, making it helpful in preventing colds and flu. For many years garlic was combined with ginger to treat or prevent influenza. Ginger is a knotted underground stem. Used in sweet and savoury dishes, it is known as a good remedy for digestive problems such as mild indigestion, flatulence, nausea and vomiting.
To store garlic, keep it in a dry, well-ventilated place. However, do not put it in the fridge, as this might cause mould. Planting garlic is easy - and it can be grown successfully in a home garden or backyard. To plant, choose the largest cloves and sow them root end down, standing erect, about 25 millimetres deep. Plant the cloves about 100 millimetres apart.
Garlic prefers growing in cold weather. When the weather is wet towards harvest time, consider lifting them a bit earlier and drying them under cover, or the outer parchment may rot. The better the leaf growth before bulbing starts, the bigger the bulb and the cloves will be.
Cloves planted in early winter will have longer exposure to the cold and will respond to the lengthening days more quickly than those planted later. However, early planting also carries the risk of the cloves rotting in the cold, wet soil.
Growing Garlic At Home - Facts About Garlic
Here are a few facts about garlic.
- Studies around the world have shown garlic to be beneficial in fighting heart disease, cancer, diabetes, infections and other illnesses.
- Crushed garlic can be used as a dressing for external wounds. It was used extensively and successfully in The Second World War for its antibiotic and antiseptic qualities.
- Garlic contains a wide range of trace minerals. These include copper, iron, zinc, magnesium, germanium, and especially selenium. In addition, garlic contains many sulphur compounds, vitamins A and C, fibre, and various amino acids.
- The mature garlic plant produces a bulb, sometimes called a head of garlic, with numerous individual cloves inside the paper-like wrapper. An individual clove when planted will reproduce an entire bulb after about 9 months.
- The use of garlic dates back to the early Egyptians, over 5,000 years ago. Egyptian slaves downed tools when their daily ration of garlic was removed, thus becoming the first ever known labour strike. Six bulbs of garlic were discovered in King Tutankhamen tomb.
- All varieties of garlic (and there over 450) are members of the Lily family.
- Fresh garlic is generally odour-free until crushed.
- It is the polysulphide allicin, as well as other substances such as adenosine and ajoene, that are key to garlic’s health benefits.
- The amount of allicin garlic can produce does not depend upon the cultivar. It can vary by as much as twenty-fold and is dependent upon soil and climate conditions. Generally speaking, Chinese garlic has the potential to produce the most allicin.
- Allicin dissipates over a period of ± 48 hours, therefore crushing fresh garlic is the only sure way of ensuring allicin will be present.
Monday, October 13, 2008
Harvesting Your Herbs
Reaping your bountiful herb harvest is a very simple process, but a few tips can improve your harvest and preserve the health of your plants.
- Give young, recent transplants time to adjust to their new home in the garden, and sufficient time to grow before the first harvest.
- When harvesting herbs for cooking, harvest them the same day you are going to use them to preserve freshness.
- Never cut off more than one-third of a plant at a time, and give young plants time to re-grow before harvesting from them again.
- Use sharp scissors and make a clean cut on the stem, taking care not to cut any leaves. Never pull leaves off of a plant.
- When harvesting culinary herbs for drying, harvest just before the plant produces blooms to ensure the highest oil content in the leaves.
- When harvesting plants for bloom (i.e. lavender), cut the blooms just before the earliest blooms on the stem start to wither.
- On annual herbs, always harvest from the growing tips of the stems, like ‘pinching back’ the plant. This will make the plant produce more leaves, reduce flowering, and lengthen the life of the plant.
- On perennials, always consider the shape of the plant, and make sure that your cutting does not misshape the plant. Think of this harvesting as a ‘mini pruning’.
- When harvesting chives, always cut spears at the base of the plant. This will encourage new growth.
Growing Herbs for Cooking
Cuisine Herbs
If you cook with herbs then you might have already thought about growing your own herbs for cooking. It's easier than you might think as well. You can learn how to set up a small herb garden, how to cultivate and prepare herbs as well as what herbs to use with certain foods. In no time at all, you can become an herb specialist and your food will be all the better for it!
There are many different types of herbs such as culinary herbs, aromatic herbs, medicinal and much more. The Brooklyn Botanic Garden Handbook on Herbs lists 73 different types of herbs. There are many common and non-common herbs and if you are a beginner culinary herb gardener, there are some that may be easier for you to start with. Parsley, thyme, savory, marjoram, mint, chives and basil are some common herbs used in cooking.
Herbs for Beginners
If you are a beginner herb gardener, you might not know what herbs to plant since there are so many to choose from. It is a good idea to get a variety of flavors and uses in cooking so that you are not stuck with all one kind of herb. You can choose from:
Of course this is not a complete list but it gives you an idea. Annuals are herbs that will bloom only for one season and then they die. Biennials live for two seasons but they only bloom on the second season and perennials bloom each season once they have been established so they are very popular.
Preparation and Drying
Once you have grown the herbs and you are ready to actually use them, it requires some preparation. You have to dry the herbs before you use them in cooking. Most herbs reach their peak just before flowering so you can collect them then for drying and storage.
Cut the herbs in the early morning when the dew has just dried. You should cut annuals off at ground level and perennials about a third way down the stem. Now wash the herbs with the leaves on the stem in cold water to remove dirt, dust, bugs, etc. You can drain them on towels or by hanging upside down in the sun to let the water evaporate.
Next you will strip all the leaves off the stalk leaving only about the top six inches. Be sure you also remove any blossoms. You know that the herbs have to be properly dried before storing and certain hers such as mint and basil need to be dried quickly or they mold. One way of natural air drying is to hang them in the dark in paper bags. Be sure to hang upside down because this lets essential oils flow from the stems to the leaves.
The room should be about 20 to 25 degrees and be well ventilated and dust and dirt free. It normally takes about 1 to 2 weeks for the herbs to be completely dry and feel crumbly.
If you need to dry quickly you can use an oven. Place the leaves or seeds on a cookie sheet and cook on low heat (less than 90 degrees C) for about 2 to 4 hours. You can also put them in the microwave for about 3 minutes, mixing them around every 30 seconds so they dry evenly. Once your herbs are properly dried you can store them until use.
Which Herbs for Which Foods
There are so many different types of herbs that it may be hard to know which herbs are good for which foods. There are no set rules for this but some general guidelines are set below.
Basil is good for tomatoes and other vegetables as well as fish, meat, poultry, potatoes, cheese, garlic and summer fruit. Thyme is good on meats as well as soups and stew and vegetable dishes. Nasturtium is a good garnish for salads, entrees and desserts and sage is good on meat and fish dishes. Oregano is best on Italian dishes and dill is good for many things such as chicken, fish, beef, asparagus, beans, beets, carrots, cabbage, corn, cucumbers, mushrooms, onions, tomatoes, breads, eggs and cheese. Mint is also often used for flavor in drinks and sauces. A good rule of thumb is to remember that you don't want the herbs to over power the food, and you don't want the herb to get lost in the flavor of the dish you are using it in. A more pungent or stronger herb marries well with a more robust meat or food and a more subtle herb goes well with a lighter dish.
If you cook with herbs then you might have already thought about growing your own herbs for cooking. It's easier than you might think as well. You can learn how to set up a small herb garden, how to cultivate and prepare herbs as well as what herbs to use with certain foods. In no time at all, you can become an herb specialist and your food will be all the better for it!
There are many different types of herbs such as culinary herbs, aromatic herbs, medicinal and much more. The Brooklyn Botanic Garden Handbook on Herbs lists 73 different types of herbs. There are many common and non-common herbs and if you are a beginner culinary herb gardener, there are some that may be easier for you to start with. Parsley, thyme, savory, marjoram, mint, chives and basil are some common herbs used in cooking.
Herbs for Beginners
If you are a beginner herb gardener, you might not know what herbs to plant since there are so many to choose from. It is a good idea to get a variety of flavors and uses in cooking so that you are not stuck with all one kind of herb. You can choose from:
- Strong herbs such as rosemary, sage and winter savory
- Accent herbs such as dill, mint, sweet basil, sweet marjoram and thyme
- Blending herbs such as chives, summer savory and parsley
Of course this is not a complete list but it gives you an idea. Annuals are herbs that will bloom only for one season and then they die. Biennials live for two seasons but they only bloom on the second season and perennials bloom each season once they have been established so they are very popular.
Preparation and Drying
Once you have grown the herbs and you are ready to actually use them, it requires some preparation. You have to dry the herbs before you use them in cooking. Most herbs reach their peak just before flowering so you can collect them then for drying and storage.
Cut the herbs in the early morning when the dew has just dried. You should cut annuals off at ground level and perennials about a third way down the stem. Now wash the herbs with the leaves on the stem in cold water to remove dirt, dust, bugs, etc. You can drain them on towels or by hanging upside down in the sun to let the water evaporate.
Next you will strip all the leaves off the stalk leaving only about the top six inches. Be sure you also remove any blossoms. You know that the herbs have to be properly dried before storing and certain hers such as mint and basil need to be dried quickly or they mold. One way of natural air drying is to hang them in the dark in paper bags. Be sure to hang upside down because this lets essential oils flow from the stems to the leaves.
The room should be about 20 to 25 degrees and be well ventilated and dust and dirt free. It normally takes about 1 to 2 weeks for the herbs to be completely dry and feel crumbly.
If you need to dry quickly you can use an oven. Place the leaves or seeds on a cookie sheet and cook on low heat (less than 90 degrees C) for about 2 to 4 hours. You can also put them in the microwave for about 3 minutes, mixing them around every 30 seconds so they dry evenly. Once your herbs are properly dried you can store them until use.
Which Herbs for Which Foods
There are so many different types of herbs that it may be hard to know which herbs are good for which foods. There are no set rules for this but some general guidelines are set below.
Basil is good for tomatoes and other vegetables as well as fish, meat, poultry, potatoes, cheese, garlic and summer fruit. Thyme is good on meats as well as soups and stew and vegetable dishes. Nasturtium is a good garnish for salads, entrees and desserts and sage is good on meat and fish dishes. Oregano is best on Italian dishes and dill is good for many things such as chicken, fish, beef, asparagus, beans, beets, carrots, cabbage, corn, cucumbers, mushrooms, onions, tomatoes, breads, eggs and cheese. Mint is also often used for flavor in drinks and sauces. A good rule of thumb is to remember that you don't want the herbs to over power the food, and you don't want the herb to get lost in the flavor of the dish you are using it in. A more pungent or stronger herb marries well with a more robust meat or food and a more subtle herb goes well with a lighter dish.
Herbs to grow indoors
Here are some of the herbs which will grow well indoors. Choose as many of these as you can find room for. They will bring fragrance to your home, exciting taste to your foods, and a little fillip to your imagination.
ANISE
Hung over your bed, anise may not make you as fair and youthful as our ancestors believed, but surely the new interest which it brings to foods will keep your appetite young. Although anise is generally grown for its sweet seed, the fresh leaves are appetizing in fruit salads, soups, stews and herb teas.
Start anise from seed or bring in a young plant from the garden and let it have plenty of sunlight.
BASIL
This herb grows particularly well in the kitchen, for it doesn't mind the heat. Keep the plants trim by using the leaves generously in salads, stews, ground meats, poultry stuffings and fruit cups. It is a necessity in any dish containing tomato, or with fresh tomatoes. If you have enough basil, sprays are beautiful in bouquets.
Start basil from seeds or bring in healthy small plants from the garden. You can put three or four light green, smooth-leaved basil plants in the same container. In the spring I set the basil plants back in the garden. These plants can be counted on to produce seed. This is not always true of those raised the first year from seed, because our growing season is too short for seeds to ripen thoroughly.
BORAGE
Although borage is more attractive in the garden than in the house, a pot containing three or four plants will furnish young cucumber-flavored leaves for salads and cool drinks.
If it blooms, the blue flowers are worth the space given this somewhat coarse, hairy-leafed plant. Borage loses its flavor when dried, so use its young, tender leaves. Start the borage from seed or bring in young plants from the garden.
CHERVIL
This fine-leaved herb resembles parsley in looks but not in taste. It is too lovely to look at and too good to eat to be left out of the kitchen herb garden. Bring in a plant and use the fresh anise-flavored leaves for garnishing and to season sauces, soups and salads. The white blossoms are small and fragile. It will germinate rapidly and may be grown from seed.
CHIVES
A clump of chives may be bought at almost any grocery store. If you have both an outdoor and indoor garden, divide a large plant and bring part of it to the kitchen window. The spikey leaves are excellent wherever a delicate onion taste is desired.
DILL
The Orientals used dill in brewing up charms. We “charm” our guests by using its seeds in pickles, fish sauces and salads, but Europeans use the leaves, too, in cooking. Why not try them?
PARSLEY
This herb, one of the oldest known to man, is as popular today as always. When grown in a sunny window in a glazed or metal pot so that the roots will not dry out, it will thrive for a long time. Use rather small plants, for the taproots of mature plants are long. Parsley does better in a cool temperature. Do not use fertilizer. Although parsley will do well inside, it will not be as strong and full as when it grows outdoors. The curly-leafed variety is the prettiest, the flat-leafed type the tastiest.
If you do not have a plant to bring in from the garden, it should be easy to get one from a nursery.
ROSE GERANIUM
Best-known and easiest to find of the fragrant-leaved geraniums is the rose geranium. The leaves are useful in potpourris, sachets and in bouquets, and they are soothing in the tub. A bit of leaf in a cup of tea gives an indescribable fragrance. If you don't know how to use it in apple jelly and cakes.
Start new plants with cuttings from an established plant. Since they are sensitive to cold, you must bring rose geraniums indoors in the winter.
ROSEMARY
Rosemary, the herb of poetry and legend, is not easy to grow, but it is worth the trouble. Grown in a pot as a house plant, it may be less than a foot tall and its lower branches will fall gracefully over the sides of the pot. The leaves resemble long, oval pine needles, particularly when dried. The leaves of rosemary are more fragrant than the flowers, and when gently crushed, they will give off the warm odor of pine.
Rosemary is a tropical plant, and it must be cut back, potted and brought indoors before frost. Your first plant should be purchased from a nursery as it is hard to start rosemary from seed.
SAGE
If you can find a small sage bush, it may be brought indoors. Its furry grey-green leaves are attractive and its fragrance pleasant. Although you will probably use sage which you dried during the summer, a growing plant gives a nice variation in hue to your indoor garden.
TARRAGON
Tarragon must be brought in for the winter in most climates, and may be set back in the garden in the spring. Early in the summer, start new plants from cuttings, for tarragon does not set seed which will germinate. Plunge the new plants in the earth, pots and all, and let them grow during the summer. When the first heavy frost causes the leaves to fall, you can trim back the stems and transfer the plants to larger pots for wintering indoors. Its young leaves are delicious in eggs, fish, meat and poultry dishes and salads. Plants must be purchased at a nursery.
THYME
Thyme will thrive in your window. Use it sparingly, in poultry stuffings, stuffed peppers, onions, zucchini squash, in meat and fish dishes. Start thyme from seed, and make sure that it has a sunny spot in which to grow.
ANISE
Hung over your bed, anise may not make you as fair and youthful as our ancestors believed, but surely the new interest which it brings to foods will keep your appetite young. Although anise is generally grown for its sweet seed, the fresh leaves are appetizing in fruit salads, soups, stews and herb teas.
Start anise from seed or bring in a young plant from the garden and let it have plenty of sunlight.
BASIL
This herb grows particularly well in the kitchen, for it doesn't mind the heat. Keep the plants trim by using the leaves generously in salads, stews, ground meats, poultry stuffings and fruit cups. It is a necessity in any dish containing tomato, or with fresh tomatoes. If you have enough basil, sprays are beautiful in bouquets.
Start basil from seeds or bring in healthy small plants from the garden. You can put three or four light green, smooth-leaved basil plants in the same container. In the spring I set the basil plants back in the garden. These plants can be counted on to produce seed. This is not always true of those raised the first year from seed, because our growing season is too short for seeds to ripen thoroughly.
BORAGE
Although borage is more attractive in the garden than in the house, a pot containing three or four plants will furnish young cucumber-flavored leaves for salads and cool drinks.
If it blooms, the blue flowers are worth the space given this somewhat coarse, hairy-leafed plant. Borage loses its flavor when dried, so use its young, tender leaves. Start the borage from seed or bring in young plants from the garden.
CHERVIL
This fine-leaved herb resembles parsley in looks but not in taste. It is too lovely to look at and too good to eat to be left out of the kitchen herb garden. Bring in a plant and use the fresh anise-flavored leaves for garnishing and to season sauces, soups and salads. The white blossoms are small and fragile. It will germinate rapidly and may be grown from seed.
CHIVES
A clump of chives may be bought at almost any grocery store. If you have both an outdoor and indoor garden, divide a large plant and bring part of it to the kitchen window. The spikey leaves are excellent wherever a delicate onion taste is desired.
DILL
The Orientals used dill in brewing up charms. We “charm” our guests by using its seeds in pickles, fish sauces and salads, but Europeans use the leaves, too, in cooking. Why not try them?
PARSLEY
This herb, one of the oldest known to man, is as popular today as always. When grown in a sunny window in a glazed or metal pot so that the roots will not dry out, it will thrive for a long time. Use rather small plants, for the taproots of mature plants are long. Parsley does better in a cool temperature. Do not use fertilizer. Although parsley will do well inside, it will not be as strong and full as when it grows outdoors. The curly-leafed variety is the prettiest, the flat-leafed type the tastiest.
If you do not have a plant to bring in from the garden, it should be easy to get one from a nursery.
ROSE GERANIUM
Best-known and easiest to find of the fragrant-leaved geraniums is the rose geranium. The leaves are useful in potpourris, sachets and in bouquets, and they are soothing in the tub. A bit of leaf in a cup of tea gives an indescribable fragrance. If you don't know how to use it in apple jelly and cakes.
Start new plants with cuttings from an established plant. Since they are sensitive to cold, you must bring rose geraniums indoors in the winter.
ROSEMARY
Rosemary, the herb of poetry and legend, is not easy to grow, but it is worth the trouble. Grown in a pot as a house plant, it may be less than a foot tall and its lower branches will fall gracefully over the sides of the pot. The leaves resemble long, oval pine needles, particularly when dried. The leaves of rosemary are more fragrant than the flowers, and when gently crushed, they will give off the warm odor of pine.
Rosemary is a tropical plant, and it must be cut back, potted and brought indoors before frost. Your first plant should be purchased from a nursery as it is hard to start rosemary from seed.
SAGE
If you can find a small sage bush, it may be brought indoors. Its furry grey-green leaves are attractive and its fragrance pleasant. Although you will probably use sage which you dried during the summer, a growing plant gives a nice variation in hue to your indoor garden.
TARRAGON
Tarragon must be brought in for the winter in most climates, and may be set back in the garden in the spring. Early in the summer, start new plants from cuttings, for tarragon does not set seed which will germinate. Plunge the new plants in the earth, pots and all, and let them grow during the summer. When the first heavy frost causes the leaves to fall, you can trim back the stems and transfer the plants to larger pots for wintering indoors. Its young leaves are delicious in eggs, fish, meat and poultry dishes and salads. Plants must be purchased at a nursery.
THYME
Thyme will thrive in your window. Use it sparingly, in poultry stuffings, stuffed peppers, onions, zucchini squash, in meat and fish dishes. Start thyme from seed, and make sure that it has a sunny spot in which to grow.
Growing An Indoor Herb Garden
Instead of planting a big outdoor herb garden consider planting one indoors. Many smaller varieties and dwarf varieties of herbs grow quite well in small pots that can be placed on a kitchen window sill. Now when you are cooking you do not have to run to your outside garden to pick a few herbs to add to your cooking. You can just simply turnaround and grab a few leaves!
It's easy to grow your own indoor herb garden. Many kits are available that have everything that you need to get started. Look for the chia herb garden which is a fun way to get the kids involved too. You can enjoy the same benefits that you would outside, but with a few distinct advantages with an indoor herb garden.
Advantages Of An Indoor Herb Garden
With an indoor herb garden you can easily monitor your plants. You will notice quickly if they need any maintenance. If they need a quick misting you can accomplish the task with little effort. Outdoor gardens are more frequently overlooked. Indoors you will not have issues with bugs eating the leaves of your herbs. You will not have to contend with trying to find a safe chemical that can be used to treat your herbs to keep bugs away.
You can do it within the comfort of your own home when it is time to harvest all of your fresh herbs. You will not have to deal with mosquitoes or other bugs while you are trying to garden.
When you plant an indoor herb garden you can bring in the wonderful fragrance that they provide. Now your kitchen will smell delicious like fresh basil or rosemary. Being surrounded by the fragrances of an indoor herb garden might even inspire your cooking. Instead of using dried herbs that have been sitting in a cabinet, any meals you do cook will now taste even better as you will be able to add fresh herbs.
Having an indoor herb garden will also protect any other plants that might be in your garden. Known to be extremely invasive are some species of herbs. Once they start growing they are hard to stop and before you know it your herb garden has taken over. By planting your herbs in small individual pots inside you can control its spreading.
Plants can make indoor spaces feel warm and cozy. Why not add a few practical plants to your kitchen to achieve the same result. You can generate an inviting atmosphere while growing herbs to use in your cooking.
Growing your own indoor herb garden is simple. Several kits are available that have everything that you need to get started. Now when you are cooking you do not have to run to your outside garden to choose a few herbs to add to your cooking.
It's easy to grow your own indoor herb garden. Many kits are available that have everything that you need to get started. Look for the chia herb garden which is a fun way to get the kids involved too. You can enjoy the same benefits that you would outside, but with a few distinct advantages with an indoor herb garden.
Advantages Of An Indoor Herb Garden
With an indoor herb garden you can easily monitor your plants. You will notice quickly if they need any maintenance. If they need a quick misting you can accomplish the task with little effort. Outdoor gardens are more frequently overlooked. Indoors you will not have issues with bugs eating the leaves of your herbs. You will not have to contend with trying to find a safe chemical that can be used to treat your herbs to keep bugs away.
You can do it within the comfort of your own home when it is time to harvest all of your fresh herbs. You will not have to deal with mosquitoes or other bugs while you are trying to garden.
When you plant an indoor herb garden you can bring in the wonderful fragrance that they provide. Now your kitchen will smell delicious like fresh basil or rosemary. Being surrounded by the fragrances of an indoor herb garden might even inspire your cooking. Instead of using dried herbs that have been sitting in a cabinet, any meals you do cook will now taste even better as you will be able to add fresh herbs.
Having an indoor herb garden will also protect any other plants that might be in your garden. Known to be extremely invasive are some species of herbs. Once they start growing they are hard to stop and before you know it your herb garden has taken over. By planting your herbs in small individual pots inside you can control its spreading.
Plants can make indoor spaces feel warm and cozy. Why not add a few practical plants to your kitchen to achieve the same result. You can generate an inviting atmosphere while growing herbs to use in your cooking.
Growing your own indoor herb garden is simple. Several kits are available that have everything that you need to get started. Now when you are cooking you do not have to run to your outside garden to choose a few herbs to add to your cooking.
Organic protection from pests
You may have heard of Integrated Pest Management and wondered what it meant. Integrated Pest Management is a fancy way to describe the practice of planning and working in your lawn or garden to prevent weeds and pests, using chemicals only as the last resort. Here are some basic steps:
- Learn about the plants and the weeds and bugs that affect them.
- Choose the right plants. Plant native species whenever possible. Native plants are better protected by their own “immune systems” and their relationships with other plants and animals in the area. You may also look for plants that are pest-resistant. Diversifying the garden with a variety of plants will help the plants protect each other from pests. For example, small flowered plants like daisies, mint, and rosemary attract many insects that eat the pests. Check with a local garden shop or nursery for recommendations.
- Maintain healthy, fertile soil by rotating your plants, adding compost, and mulching.
- Plant early to avoid the worst bug season.
- Allow growth of the pests’ natural predators. Ladybugs, ground beetles, and birds eat many pests, and fungi and moss can infect the pests naturally. Spraying chemicals often kills the beneficial bugs too.
- Get out there and work with your hands! A hoe, spade, and your hands are the best tools to combat weeds. Getting close to your plants will help you identify problems and remove pests and damaged plants by hand. Tilling can eliminate many weeds as well. Pruning plants helps remove diseased parts, leaving the plant's nutrients for the healthy parts. Always prune back to a main branch or stem; leaving "stubs" opens a door for pests.
- Keep a garden journal in which you record when you see pests, what they look like, what they have done to the plants, and the actions taken. In this way, you will learn what works and what doesn't while experimenting with new techniques.
Organic Pest Control
The keys for natural pest control in your home and in your garden are modification and prevention. In generalities, natural pest control is defined as the use of techniques, products and methods that won't put human health or the environment at risk.
More often than not, very simple changes that you make to your home or garden can drastically change and reduce pest populations on your property. When it comes to natural pest control, the idea is that before you reach for the phone to call an exterminator, or grab a pesticide and spray it yourself, you can take steps to get rid of the problem in a far less invasive way.
First and foremost, you should monitor the pest problem. Find out what they are, where they are entering and exiting your home and what they are feeding on. Once you have a better understanding of the pest or pests you are dealing with, you can better make a determination on how to deal with the problem.
Modification is important when it comes to a pest's ability to enter and exit your home. Do structural repairs as they are needed, like caulking cracks in the foundation, making certain that windows and doors are sealing properly and repairing damaged or missing screens. If the pest's are in the habit of getting in through crevices and open doors, modify those habits by sealing them off.
Many pests are attracted to spills like greasy or sugary liquids, poorly stored pet food, and uncovered garbage. Eliminating the possibility of food sources for many outdoor and indoor pests can often eliminate the pest problem.
Prevention comes when you continue upkeep of structural repairs, maintain proper sanitation and housekeeping practices, and keep food storage well sealed.
Although these practices aren't fool proof ways to ensure that you will have no problems with pest infestations, natural pest control practices do help in reducing the possibility without increasing your potential for harm by using chemicals and pesticides.
More often than not, very simple changes that you make to your home or garden can drastically change and reduce pest populations on your property. When it comes to natural pest control, the idea is that before you reach for the phone to call an exterminator, or grab a pesticide and spray it yourself, you can take steps to get rid of the problem in a far less invasive way.
First and foremost, you should monitor the pest problem. Find out what they are, where they are entering and exiting your home and what they are feeding on. Once you have a better understanding of the pest or pests you are dealing with, you can better make a determination on how to deal with the problem.
Modification is important when it comes to a pest's ability to enter and exit your home. Do structural repairs as they are needed, like caulking cracks in the foundation, making certain that windows and doors are sealing properly and repairing damaged or missing screens. If the pest's are in the habit of getting in through crevices and open doors, modify those habits by sealing them off.
Many pests are attracted to spills like greasy or sugary liquids, poorly stored pet food, and uncovered garbage. Eliminating the possibility of food sources for many outdoor and indoor pests can often eliminate the pest problem.
Prevention comes when you continue upkeep of structural repairs, maintain proper sanitation and housekeeping practices, and keep food storage well sealed.
Although these practices aren't fool proof ways to ensure that you will have no problems with pest infestations, natural pest control practices do help in reducing the possibility without increasing your potential for harm by using chemicals and pesticides.
Compost Ingredients
Building a compost pile creates more anxiety and obsession among gardeners than any other gardening activity. So before you start a pile, remember one thing: Relax. "There's no right or wrong way of composting, and people get panicked that they have the wrong recipe," says Dr. Maynard. "Composting is a natural phenomenon—it's decomposing; you're just helping it along a bit." That said, there are good, bad, and so-so compost ingredients. So before you add an ingredient to your pile, make sure it's up to the compost quality-control test. Ask yourself four basic questions about each ingredient:
Extra(ordinary) Ingredients
Green goodies
The following items should never be added to compost, because they could introduce harmful pathogens, toxins, and nonbiodegradable material.
Many things found in the average home are nontoxic and biodegradable and come from a known source—but they aren't great compost ingredients because they break down slowly, mat together, or don't add many nutrients.
Cow manure may contain E. coli O157:H7, a very dangerous pathogen that can cause severe illness and even death. "It's hard to meet time and temperature requirements to kill pathogens in a home compost pile," says soil scientist Craig Cogger, Ph.D. We don't recommend adding it to home compost ever because of the health risk. But if you're tempted to use it, you must wait at least four months after you add it to your soil before you can harvest, to make sure the pathogens are no longer active. Wear gloves when handling manure and wash your hands thoroughly.
- Is it biodegradable?
- Will it help make high-quality, nutrient-rich compost?
- Did it come from a chemical-free lawn?
- Is it free of disease, toxins, and other contaminants?
Extra(ordinary) Ingredients
Green goodies
- Aquarium water, algae, and plants (from freshwater fish tanks only) add moisture and a kick of nitrogen.
- Chicken manure has high amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.
- Dead houseplants add a dose of nitrogen, but don't include thorny or diseased plants.
- Fresh grass clippings should be mixed with plenty of drier, brown material, or you'll risk creating a smelly pile.
- Green garden debris, such as spent pansies, bolted lettuce, and deadheaded flowers, can all be recycled in the compost bin.
- Horse manure contains more nitrogen than cow manure.
- Manure from pet rabbits and rodents(e.g., gerbils and hamsters) can be composted with the accompanying wood or paper bedding.
- Vegetative kitchen scraps (carrot peelings and the like) should be buried in the pile so they don't attract animals. Eggshells are okay, too.
- Weeds can be composted! No joke. Just remember never to add weeds that have set seed or weeds that root easily from stems or rhizomes, such as bindweed and thistle.
- Brown garden debris, such as corn and sunflower stalks, dried legume plants, and dried potato and tomato vines, adds bulk to the pile.
- Hedge prunings and twigs help keep a pile fluffy but should be chipped first so they decompose faster.
- Leaves are an abundant carbon source and full of nutrients. Stockpile them in fall so that you have them on hand in summer.
- Pine needles decompose slowly. Add only small amounts to your pile. Use excess needles as a mulch.
- Straw bulks up a pile, but it should not be confused with hay, which often contains weed and grass seeds and shouldn't be added to compost (unless you want to deal with the potential consequences).
The following items should never be added to compost, because they could introduce harmful pathogens, toxins, and nonbiodegradable material.
- Diseased plants must be disposed of in the garbage or burned. Adding them to compost could spread the disease.
- Dog, cat, pig, and reptile manures (and associated bedding) may contain parasites or dangerous pathogens that are harmful to humans, particularly pregnant women, children, and people with compromised immune systems. Never add them to your compost.
- Gypsum board scraps could contain paint and other undesirable toxins.
- Materials from the side of the road, including grass clippings and leaves, could contain petroleum residues (such as oil), toxins, and nonbiodegradable materials.
- Meats, dairy products, bones, and fish decompose slowly, smell, and attract animals.
- Paper, especially glossy paper, printed with colored ink, may contain heavy metals. Black-and-white newspaper is safe.
Many things found in the average home are nontoxic and biodegradable and come from a known source—but they aren't great compost ingredients because they break down slowly, mat together, or don't add many nutrients.
- Black-and-white newsprint and office paper can be used in the compost pile if you're desperate for brown materials, but they must be shredded. Try using the newspaper in sheet mulching projects and recycling office paper instead.
- Cardboard is best used in sheet mulching. Shred or chop it into small pieces if composting.
- Dryer lint may contain synthetic fibers that will never decompose. Even natural-fiber lint adds no benefit to compost.
- Human and pet hair can be added in small amounts, if you keep in mind that it breaks down slowly, mats easily, and sheds water.
- Natural-fiber cloth doesn't add any benefit to the compost pile. Consider using burlap bags under wood chips to prevent weeds instead.
- Sawdust must be used in moderation, because it breaks down very slowly and can lock up nitrogen. Never use sawdust from treated or painted wood.
- Vacuum bags may contain synthetic carpet fibers and other nonbiodegradable items.
- Wood ash adds potassium (potash), but it is an extremely alkaline material and should be used in small amounts.
- Wood chips should be used as mulch around ornamentals because they break down so slowly.
Cow manure may contain E. coli O157:H7, a very dangerous pathogen that can cause severe illness and even death. "It's hard to meet time and temperature requirements to kill pathogens in a home compost pile," says soil scientist Craig Cogger, Ph.D. We don't recommend adding it to home compost ever because of the health risk. But if you're tempted to use it, you must wait at least four months after you add it to your soil before you can harvest, to make sure the pathogens are no longer active. Wear gloves when handling manure and wash your hands thoroughly.
Basic Leaf Mold
Instead of carting leaves to the curb, recycle them the way nature does, by turning them into an invaluable soil builder. Leaf mold greatly improves the structure and water-holding capacity of soil. It also creates the perfect conditions for the community of beneficial organisms that dwell in your soil, and it's great in potting mix.
There's really no excuse not to make leaf mold. It's free, easy-to-make, and readily available. If you don't have enough leaves in your own yard, trade raking duty with your neighbors in exchange for theirs. Before you use leaves that have fallen on your neighbors' lawns, be sure to ask them if the grass has recently been sprayed with synthetic chemicals. If so, don't use the leaves. Grass clippings with chemical residues can get mixed in with the leaves and contaminate them, says William Brinton, Ph.D., director of the Woods End Research Laboratory, in Maine. Still, Dr. Brinton explains, chemical contamination is not a significant concern with leaf mold because its lengthy decomposition time allows for chemicals to break down as well. Do not use leaves that have been raked into the street for municipal pickup, because they may contain lots of sand, fuel, or oil residues.
Do-It-Yourself Leaf Mold
Making leaf mold couldn't be easier. Start by ensuring that the leaves are thoroughly moistened, says Abigail Maynard, Ph.D., of the Connecticut Agriculture Experiment Station. Dehydrated leaves begin to lose nitrogen, and this hinders the decomposition process. Here are two ways to transform leaves into leaf mold.
Now, here's how to use this nutrient-rich soil conditioner.
Leaf mold: Leaves that have fully decomposed over a long time.
Leaf compost: Compost made by mixing leaves with other organic materials.
Humus: The dark, spongy material created when microorganisms break down organic matter. Leaf mold and leaf compost both eventually turn into humus.
There's really no excuse not to make leaf mold. It's free, easy-to-make, and readily available. If you don't have enough leaves in your own yard, trade raking duty with your neighbors in exchange for theirs. Before you use leaves that have fallen on your neighbors' lawns, be sure to ask them if the grass has recently been sprayed with synthetic chemicals. If so, don't use the leaves. Grass clippings with chemical residues can get mixed in with the leaves and contaminate them, says William Brinton, Ph.D., director of the Woods End Research Laboratory, in Maine. Still, Dr. Brinton explains, chemical contamination is not a significant concern with leaf mold because its lengthy decomposition time allows for chemicals to break down as well. Do not use leaves that have been raked into the street for municipal pickup, because they may contain lots of sand, fuel, or oil residues.
Do-It-Yourself Leaf Mold
Making leaf mold couldn't be easier. Start by ensuring that the leaves are thoroughly moistened, says Abigail Maynard, Ph.D., of the Connecticut Agriculture Experiment Station. Dehydrated leaves begin to lose nitrogen, and this hinders the decomposition process. Here are two ways to transform leaves into leaf mold.
- The lazy gardener. Pile leaves in a sheltered, inconspicuous area of your yard and leave them for two years.
- The ambitious gardener. Make a 3-by-3-foot leaf mold "cage" from stakes and chicken wire. Speed up the leaves' rate of decomposition by running a lawn mower over the pile a few times. To ensure even decomposition, Dr. Maynard suggests, turn the pile occasionally.
Now, here's how to use this nutrient-rich soil conditioner.
- Peat substitute. Use leaf mold in place of peat because it has similar qualities and it's a renewable resource.
- Moisture-retaining mulch. Leaf mold can hold up to 500 times its own weight in water. Place it around (but not touching) the crowns of annuals, perennials, and vegetables to help them maintain moisture during summer.
- Soil conditioner. It's easier for roots to penetrate soil and take up nutrients when the soil is not as dense. Dr. Maynard and her colleagues in Connecticut completed a 12-year study on the role leaf mold plays in changing soil characteristics. They found that garden soil amended with leaf mold had a 20 percent lower bulk density than soil to which leaf mold was not added.
- Drought-proof soil. The Connecticut study also found that soils amended with leaf mold increased their water-holding capacity by almost 50 percent. The amended soil could hold nearly a two-week supply of water for vegetables. Caution: This water-holding capacity can be a problem for seeds planted in early spring, because they may rot in the cool, wet soil. Dr. Maynard suggests planting extra seeds to compensate for seeds lost to rot.
- Seedling mix. Mix one part leaf mold with one part well-aged compost or worm castings for a nutrient-rich potting mixture for seedlings.
Leaf mold: Leaves that have fully decomposed over a long time.
Leaf compost: Compost made by mixing leaves with other organic materials.
Humus: The dark, spongy material created when microorganisms break down organic matter. Leaf mold and leaf compost both eventually turn into humus.
Friday, October 10, 2008
Organic Pesticide - What is an organic Pesticide?
Will the real organic pesticide please stand up? by Gerhard Verdoorn
"Since when are organic pesticides not chemicals?" asks Prof Gerhard Verdoorn, Director of BirdLife SA. The word 'organic' is probably one of the most abused in the English language as far as a chemist is concerned. Consumers lured into believing the promises of so-called organic pesticides, take heed, there is no such thing as an environmentally friendly pesticide, says Verdoorn, they are designed to kill.
Pesticides are as old as modern civilizations and were first recorded long before the Renaissance in both the Western world and the Orient. Development of modern pesticides took a quantum leap forwards after the First World War and the developments advanced even faster after the Second World War. In a rapidly changing world people realize the importance of safer agricultural practices and in particular the more responsible use of pesticides. The question is, however, how do we achieve effective food production while minimizing the impacts of pesticides on the broader environment? The same question holds true for the control of garden and household pests.
"Organic" pesticides
It has recently become a favourite topic of the environmental lobby to promote the so-called 'organic pesticides' while slating the classic pesticides as environmentally damaging. The word 'organic' is perhaps the most misused and misunderstood word as far as pesticides are concerned and leaves someone like me as an Organic Chemist with a rather bitter taste on the tongue. Organic in scientific terms means a molecule that consists mainly of a carbon skeleton with other elements such as hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur, phosphorus and a few others as contributing building blocks. The majority of modern pesticide molecules are organic and fit in 100% with the scientific classification of organic. The so-called organic pesticides should thus definitely be called natural as they are also mostly organic (in scientific terms) but are strictly of natural origin. The classic pesticides that are often referred to as chemical pesticides are in fact all chemicals but they are synthetic (such as organophosphates) or semi-synthetic (such as pyrethroids) whereas the natural pesticides are chemicals of a natural origin such as salts of fatty acids and plant oils. Some of the so-called organic pesticides contain active ingredients such as copper octanoate. Any environmentalist that is worth his or her salt will know that copper is extremely damaging to the environment, yet the marketing agencies of these products brand them as environmentally friendly organic pesticides. Copper is inorganic and at best the product may be branded as organo-metallic.
Synthetic pesticides
Synthetic pesticides are in most cases highly effective against the pests that they are registered for, have a good residual activity (which means they are active for a certain length of time) and are fairly cheap, depending on where the consumer acquires them from. The dangers of synthetic pesticides lie in their toxicity to life forms and their persistence in the environment. Note that different classes of synthetic pesticides have different toxicities towards different organisms and have a highly variable range of persistence in the environment. There is no such thing as an environmentally friendly pesticide; they are designed to kill and that is what they will do in varying degrees of efficacy. As conservationists we should be concerned with biodiversity and that means all life forms and not just the birds and mammals. Pyrethroids for example may be quite soft on mammals and birds but this particular group of semi-synthetic pesticides is extremely toxic to insects, fish and amphibians. Some products within the organophosphate and carbamate groups of synthetic pesticides are extremely toxic to basically all forms of life, including human beings. Such products should never be used by the general consumer.
"Contains no chemicals..."
Natural insecticides are popping up all over the market and are often accompanied by extremely risky claims. Labeling such products as 'safe', 'contains no chemicals' and 'harmless to children and pets' are not only highly unethical but also encourages the public to seriously misuse such products. As mentioned earlier, all pesticides are chemicals, even the natural ones and if the natural ones were safe, how would they kill the pests?
In South Africa no pesticides may be branded as environmentally friendly, not even the naturals. Fatty acids and plant oils such as canola and garlic oils are toxic to the environment because they kill invertebrates and aquatic organisms. If we remove the goggas from the cycles of life the entire biological network will fall apart. The advantage of natural pesticides lie in their low toxicity to warm blooded creatures and fairly rapid decomposition; this latter characteristic may be construed to be a disadvantage as there is no or little residual action on their part. If you don't contact the gogga directly with the natural poison, then the application is in vain.
Comparing the application rates of natural insecticides with that of synthetic insecticides paints a somewhat ridiculous picture in certain cases. As much as ten times more natural insecticide is required per litre of spray mixture compared to the dosage required for a synthetic pesticide. This is naturally more expensive and may be somewhat less attractive to the consumer. I see it as a great disadvantage for the environment and for garden biodiversity to have to apply such a load of even a natural chemical. In most cases the application of natural pesticides is required more frequently than with synthetic pesticides. In many cases the lifespan of natural insecticides has not been assessed properly, so we don't even know how long they remain active in the environment and what their effects may be, yet producers claim rapid breakdown of the products. I cannot imagine that a spider would be happily crawling around on a plant that is covered in a layer of plant oil that is supposedly 'natural'.
Pesticides and the law
All pesticides in South Africa are governed by the Fertilizers, Farm Feeds, Agricultural Remedies and Stock Remedies Act, 1947 (Act No. 36 of 1947). All products that claim to control, kill or repel any vertebrate or invertebrate pest have to be registered with the Registrar of Act No. 36 of 1947 whether such products are natural or synthetic of origin. The Act is highly prescriptive in terms of the registration requirements, claims that are made on the labels of such products and a host of other things. This is to ensure that products are effective, that they do not pose a significant risk to human beings and the environment, and do what they are supposed to do.
Pesticide manufacturers are bound by law to print warnings and precautions on their labels but of course we can expect that the in many cases the public do not read and follow the advice presented on the labels. In the Poison Working Group we deal with wildlife, domestic animal and human poisoning on a daily basis and sad to say, virtually all incidents are the result of some end user failing to follow safety precautions and application instructions. Someone who fails to follow the instructions supplied with pesticides causes as much harm with a natural pesticide as with a synthetic pesticide. The synthetic pesticides sold in the household and garden markets are generally much less toxic than those products supplied to agricultural industry, yet home owners poison themselves, their pets and their garden wildlife by not adhering to instructions.
The greatest danger as far as I am concerned lies in people's general perceptions that synthetic pesticides are dangerous and natural insecticides are safe. There is no safe pesticide!! People should start having a respect and concern for all life forms and not just for the big and hairy. Take for example the practice of killing spiders with so-called environmentally friendly natural pesticides. Spiders come as close to a natural insecticide as you will ever find and should never be killed, irrespective of whether they are poisonous or not. Some synthetic insecticides are extremely toxic and it is justified to be very cautious about such products but from a responsible and environmental point of view, natural insecticides should be used with as great a respect and caution as the synthetics. Or do we not regard the insects that keep our gardens alive as less important than the birds?
By all means people have a right to choose a product that they believe will do the job and be less harmful to the environment, but base your selection of pesticide on the holistic facts of wildlife and human life and not on fictitious marketing claims. Don't believe that synthetic pesticides are all bad news. These products have all been tested rigorously and approved by the Department of Agriculture and if used according to the label instructions pose little risk to life. There are organophosphates such as mercaptothion that are soft on warm blooded creatures but there are natural insecticides that will wipe out fish and frogs faster than mercaptothion can hope to achieve. Don't believe that natural insecticides are the answers to all our problems. Rather use a legally approved synthetic pesticide than some so-called organic pesticide that has never been tested nor approved by Agriculture. This spells danger to some form of life in your garden.
Should you prefer a natural insecticide choose one that is registered with the Department of Agriculture and follow the instructions on the label as rigorously as you would follow the instructions on a container of oxydemeton-methyl. It is your responsibility to use all pesticides only as instructed to get the desired effect, to minimize impacts on the environment and to prevent poisoning yourself. I have never come across a bad pesticide but I have come across thousands of bad pesticide users.
Some pesticide producers are very concerned about the misuse of their products and offer training to retailers on product safety and responsible use. Sadly, this training stops there as members of the public are hardly ever trained in responsible use. The Poison Working Group and certain pesticide companies offer telephonic advice to the public as well as training. I manage an information service and it is heartening to see how many people care and call for advice. Those are the ones who should be using pesticides. The rest? Well, I have my doubts even if they use an organic insecticide! Call me on my Nashua-PWG Emergency Helpline 082 446 8946 for any advice you may seek on responsible pest management and don't be surprised if I sometimes refuse to recommend a pesticide for a gogga that is not really a pest!
More information:
Article by Prof Gerhard H Verdoorn, Director: BirdLife South Africa
"Since when are organic pesticides not chemicals?" asks Prof Gerhard Verdoorn, Director of BirdLife SA. The word 'organic' is probably one of the most abused in the English language as far as a chemist is concerned. Consumers lured into believing the promises of so-called organic pesticides, take heed, there is no such thing as an environmentally friendly pesticide, says Verdoorn, they are designed to kill.
Pesticides are as old as modern civilizations and were first recorded long before the Renaissance in both the Western world and the Orient. Development of modern pesticides took a quantum leap forwards after the First World War and the developments advanced even faster after the Second World War. In a rapidly changing world people realize the importance of safer agricultural practices and in particular the more responsible use of pesticides. The question is, however, how do we achieve effective food production while minimizing the impacts of pesticides on the broader environment? The same question holds true for the control of garden and household pests.
"Organic" pesticides
It has recently become a favourite topic of the environmental lobby to promote the so-called 'organic pesticides' while slating the classic pesticides as environmentally damaging. The word 'organic' is perhaps the most misused and misunderstood word as far as pesticides are concerned and leaves someone like me as an Organic Chemist with a rather bitter taste on the tongue. Organic in scientific terms means a molecule that consists mainly of a carbon skeleton with other elements such as hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur, phosphorus and a few others as contributing building blocks. The majority of modern pesticide molecules are organic and fit in 100% with the scientific classification of organic. The so-called organic pesticides should thus definitely be called natural as they are also mostly organic (in scientific terms) but are strictly of natural origin. The classic pesticides that are often referred to as chemical pesticides are in fact all chemicals but they are synthetic (such as organophosphates) or semi-synthetic (such as pyrethroids) whereas the natural pesticides are chemicals of a natural origin such as salts of fatty acids and plant oils. Some of the so-called organic pesticides contain active ingredients such as copper octanoate. Any environmentalist that is worth his or her salt will know that copper is extremely damaging to the environment, yet the marketing agencies of these products brand them as environmentally friendly organic pesticides. Copper is inorganic and at best the product may be branded as organo-metallic.
Synthetic pesticides
Synthetic pesticides are in most cases highly effective against the pests that they are registered for, have a good residual activity (which means they are active for a certain length of time) and are fairly cheap, depending on where the consumer acquires them from. The dangers of synthetic pesticides lie in their toxicity to life forms and their persistence in the environment. Note that different classes of synthetic pesticides have different toxicities towards different organisms and have a highly variable range of persistence in the environment. There is no such thing as an environmentally friendly pesticide; they are designed to kill and that is what they will do in varying degrees of efficacy. As conservationists we should be concerned with biodiversity and that means all life forms and not just the birds and mammals. Pyrethroids for example may be quite soft on mammals and birds but this particular group of semi-synthetic pesticides is extremely toxic to insects, fish and amphibians. Some products within the organophosphate and carbamate groups of synthetic pesticides are extremely toxic to basically all forms of life, including human beings. Such products should never be used by the general consumer.
"Contains no chemicals..."
Natural insecticides are popping up all over the market and are often accompanied by extremely risky claims. Labeling such products as 'safe', 'contains no chemicals' and 'harmless to children and pets' are not only highly unethical but also encourages the public to seriously misuse such products. As mentioned earlier, all pesticides are chemicals, even the natural ones and if the natural ones were safe, how would they kill the pests?
In South Africa no pesticides may be branded as environmentally friendly, not even the naturals. Fatty acids and plant oils such as canola and garlic oils are toxic to the environment because they kill invertebrates and aquatic organisms. If we remove the goggas from the cycles of life the entire biological network will fall apart. The advantage of natural pesticides lie in their low toxicity to warm blooded creatures and fairly rapid decomposition; this latter characteristic may be construed to be a disadvantage as there is no or little residual action on their part. If you don't contact the gogga directly with the natural poison, then the application is in vain.
Comparing the application rates of natural insecticides with that of synthetic insecticides paints a somewhat ridiculous picture in certain cases. As much as ten times more natural insecticide is required per litre of spray mixture compared to the dosage required for a synthetic pesticide. This is naturally more expensive and may be somewhat less attractive to the consumer. I see it as a great disadvantage for the environment and for garden biodiversity to have to apply such a load of even a natural chemical. In most cases the application of natural pesticides is required more frequently than with synthetic pesticides. In many cases the lifespan of natural insecticides has not been assessed properly, so we don't even know how long they remain active in the environment and what their effects may be, yet producers claim rapid breakdown of the products. I cannot imagine that a spider would be happily crawling around on a plant that is covered in a layer of plant oil that is supposedly 'natural'.
Pesticides and the law
All pesticides in South Africa are governed by the Fertilizers, Farm Feeds, Agricultural Remedies and Stock Remedies Act, 1947 (Act No. 36 of 1947). All products that claim to control, kill or repel any vertebrate or invertebrate pest have to be registered with the Registrar of Act No. 36 of 1947 whether such products are natural or synthetic of origin. The Act is highly prescriptive in terms of the registration requirements, claims that are made on the labels of such products and a host of other things. This is to ensure that products are effective, that they do not pose a significant risk to human beings and the environment, and do what they are supposed to do.
Pesticide manufacturers are bound by law to print warnings and precautions on their labels but of course we can expect that the in many cases the public do not read and follow the advice presented on the labels. In the Poison Working Group we deal with wildlife, domestic animal and human poisoning on a daily basis and sad to say, virtually all incidents are the result of some end user failing to follow safety precautions and application instructions. Someone who fails to follow the instructions supplied with pesticides causes as much harm with a natural pesticide as with a synthetic pesticide. The synthetic pesticides sold in the household and garden markets are generally much less toxic than those products supplied to agricultural industry, yet home owners poison themselves, their pets and their garden wildlife by not adhering to instructions.
The greatest danger as far as I am concerned lies in people's general perceptions that synthetic pesticides are dangerous and natural insecticides are safe. There is no safe pesticide!! People should start having a respect and concern for all life forms and not just for the big and hairy. Take for example the practice of killing spiders with so-called environmentally friendly natural pesticides. Spiders come as close to a natural insecticide as you will ever find and should never be killed, irrespective of whether they are poisonous or not. Some synthetic insecticides are extremely toxic and it is justified to be very cautious about such products but from a responsible and environmental point of view, natural insecticides should be used with as great a respect and caution as the synthetics. Or do we not regard the insects that keep our gardens alive as less important than the birds?
By all means people have a right to choose a product that they believe will do the job and be less harmful to the environment, but base your selection of pesticide on the holistic facts of wildlife and human life and not on fictitious marketing claims. Don't believe that synthetic pesticides are all bad news. These products have all been tested rigorously and approved by the Department of Agriculture and if used according to the label instructions pose little risk to life. There are organophosphates such as mercaptothion that are soft on warm blooded creatures but there are natural insecticides that will wipe out fish and frogs faster than mercaptothion can hope to achieve. Don't believe that natural insecticides are the answers to all our problems. Rather use a legally approved synthetic pesticide than some so-called organic pesticide that has never been tested nor approved by Agriculture. This spells danger to some form of life in your garden.
Should you prefer a natural insecticide choose one that is registered with the Department of Agriculture and follow the instructions on the label as rigorously as you would follow the instructions on a container of oxydemeton-methyl. It is your responsibility to use all pesticides only as instructed to get the desired effect, to minimize impacts on the environment and to prevent poisoning yourself. I have never come across a bad pesticide but I have come across thousands of bad pesticide users.
Some pesticide producers are very concerned about the misuse of their products and offer training to retailers on product safety and responsible use. Sadly, this training stops there as members of the public are hardly ever trained in responsible use. The Poison Working Group and certain pesticide companies offer telephonic advice to the public as well as training. I manage an information service and it is heartening to see how many people care and call for advice. Those are the ones who should be using pesticides. The rest? Well, I have my doubts even if they use an organic insecticide! Call me on my Nashua-PWG Emergency Helpline 082 446 8946 for any advice you may seek on responsible pest management and don't be surprised if I sometimes refuse to recommend a pesticide for a gogga that is not really a pest!
More information:
Article by Prof Gerhard H Verdoorn, Director: BirdLife South Africa
What is vermiculture?
Vermiculture is the process of using worms to decompose organic food waste, turning the waste into a nutrient-rich material capable of supplying necessary nutrients to help sustain plant growth. This method is simple, effective, convenient, and noiseless. It saves water, energy, landfills, and helps rebuild the soil. The worms ability to convert organic waste into nutrient-rich material reduces the need for synthetic fertilizers.
We violate natures ability to complete the life cycle process when we send food down the garbage disposal, or bury it in a landfill. We deplete the soil and deprive nature from rehabilitating itself when we bypass this natural life cycle recycling process.
Is Vermiculture Composting recycling?
Yes. Vermicomposting is nature's way of recycling.
How does Vermiculture composting benefit the soil?
Vermicompost improves soil structure, texture, and aeration as well as increasing its water-holding capacity. Your plants will grow stronger and have deeper root systems for better drought tolerance and disease resistance.
Worms are necessary to help produce top soil. Worms help the environment by decomposing organic material (food and yard waste) turning it into a natural rich organic soil amendment. The end result is called vermicompost, wormpoop,or worm castings. Vermicompost provides a tremendous source of nutrients for plants that dramatically improves the texture and fertility of soil. This replaces valuable nutrients taken out of the soil when fruit and vegetables are harvested.
Vermicomposting adds beneficial organisms to the soil. These microorganisms and soil fauna help break down organic materials and convert nutrients into a more available food form for plants.
Like composting, vermiculture composting is natures way of completing the recycling loop. Being born, living, dying, and being reborn again. Adding compost to soil aids in erosion control, promotes soil fertility, and stimulates healthy root development in plants.
What do you feed worms?
Red Worms or (Eisenia fetida) are the best type of worm for eating food waste. These worms are surface worms and stay in the top 18 inches of the soil. It is usually best to keep them in a closed container so you can keep the process going. Every three months the worms should be harvested separated from the castings.
Worms are easy to care for but they require food, moisture, oxygen, and a dark place to live.
We violate natures ability to complete the life cycle process when we send food down the garbage disposal, or bury it in a landfill. We deplete the soil and deprive nature from rehabilitating itself when we bypass this natural life cycle recycling process.
Is Vermiculture Composting recycling?
Yes. Vermicomposting is nature's way of recycling.
How does Vermiculture composting benefit the soil?
Vermicompost improves soil structure, texture, and aeration as well as increasing its water-holding capacity. Your plants will grow stronger and have deeper root systems for better drought tolerance and disease resistance.
Worms are necessary to help produce top soil. Worms help the environment by decomposing organic material (food and yard waste) turning it into a natural rich organic soil amendment. The end result is called vermicompost, wormpoop,or worm castings. Vermicompost provides a tremendous source of nutrients for plants that dramatically improves the texture and fertility of soil. This replaces valuable nutrients taken out of the soil when fruit and vegetables are harvested.
Vermicomposting adds beneficial organisms to the soil. These microorganisms and soil fauna help break down organic materials and convert nutrients into a more available food form for plants.
Like composting, vermiculture composting is natures way of completing the recycling loop. Being born, living, dying, and being reborn again. Adding compost to soil aids in erosion control, promotes soil fertility, and stimulates healthy root development in plants.
What do you feed worms?
- Food scraps from the kitchen like fruit and vegetable trimmings, lettuce leaves, carrot tops, ground egg shells, orange peelings, banana peelings.
- Yard trimmings, grass clippings, leaves, and mulch are great for vermiculture.
- Anything but meat and dairy products.
Red Worms or (Eisenia fetida) are the best type of worm for eating food waste. These worms are surface worms and stay in the top 18 inches of the soil. It is usually best to keep them in a closed container so you can keep the process going. Every three months the worms should be harvested separated from the castings.
Worms are easy to care for but they require food, moisture, oxygen, and a dark place to live.
Starting A Herb Garden :: How to start a herb garden indoors
Learn how to plan an herb garden and start seeds indoors before the growing season begins. You will have strong seedlings ready to transplant right after the last frost.
Even while the cold winters are still keeping eager gardeners indoors, there is plenty of work to be done. Winter is the best time to plan and start an herb garden. By planning the garden and starting seeds indoors weeks before the last frost, gardeners can, in effect, stretch the growing season, while ensuring the greatest possible yield from their plants.
As with any garden project, the first step is deciding what plants to include in your new garden. A logical starting point is the location of the plot. Will this bed receive adequate light? Most herbs require full sun to thrive, but a few can tolerate some shade. Check the area at different times throughout the day to determine whether it receives continuous or only partial sun. Keep in mind that light patterns may change with the seasons. An area that receives unobstructed sunlight in the winter and early spring may be in shade during the summer when trees have their leaves.
Next, determine which herbs you would like to grow. Decide if you are interested in growing herbs for culinary, medicinal, or aesthetic uses, or a combination. Refer to a good gardening book for descriptions of each herb, and start a chart showing how tall and wide each plant grows, how much space it requires between plants, and any other specific information about their characteristics. This is very important, since some plants have specific growing requirements. For instance, mint and violets are highly invasive, so these herbs might be better suited to containers rather than the garden itself.
Once armed with this information, you’re ready to design your garden. First, outline the dimensions of the bed on graph paper. Then indicate where you want each plant to go using circles with the plant’s name written inside. It may take more than one attempt if this is your first design effort, so try to enjoy the creative process.
If you have the luxury of space, you might try a formal design, with a birdbath or other focal point in the center, and gravel paths or stone walkways dividing the growing area surrounding it. Otherwise, simply arrange the plants according to height, so that the tallest ones will not cast shadows on the shorter ones. Be sure to consider how you will get to the farther plants, allowing enough room for you to pass among the herbs to tend and harvest them. Also, remember to space plants the proper distance apart; some will not grow well when crowded.
When you are happy with your new garden design, count the number of each plant that appears in it, and prepare a master list. Then purchase the supplies needed to start your plants from seed indoors. This will include seeds; starter trays, which have multiple compartments for starting many seeds in a small amount of space; enough peat pots for the number of plants you intend to grow; plastic liner trays to hold the peat pots; and a good soil mix. This is much lighter and less dense than regular potting soil, making it easier for the tender new roots to grow. If you are not sure how much soil mix to buy, ask an associate at your garden center. He or she can advise you on how much is needed to fill the starter trays and the number and size peat pots you are purchasing.
Some beginners like to start more plants than they need to fill their garden, and this is a good idea. If some plants don’t survive, the surplus will save you from having bare spots in the garden. If all your plants make it, you can always give the extras to family, friends, and neighbours, who will be glad for your talent and generosity.
Seed manufacturers recommend starting your seeds eight to twelve weeks before the date of your last frost. Check your seed packets for specific recommendations. When you are ready to begin, fill your starter trays with the soil mix. (An alternative to purchasing starter trays is to use egg cartons. Be sure to punch several small holes in each compartment for drainage.) Add a seed to each compartment, planting them to the depth specified on the seed packets. Mist to wet the soil. Seeds require warmth in order to germinate, so arrange your trays in a warm, well-ventilated room. Keep the soil moist. Germination time varies from one plant to another, so your seeds will not all sprout at precisely the same time.
While you’re waiting, prepare to meet the lighting requirements of your plants. Although very elaborate and expensive lighting systems are available for indoor gardening, many growers have found that simple fluorescent shop lights cost much, much less and are equally effective. The light must be suspended about 30 centimeters from the top of the plants, so you must be able to raise the lights as the plants grow. As soon as your seeds begin to sprout, move the trays to their new home beneath the lights.
When your plants have sprouted their first set of true leaves, they should be transplanted into the peat pots. Place the pots in the plastic trays, then add water to the tray. It will take awhile, but eventually the water will be soaked up along the sides of the pots and throughout the soil mix. This is called bottom watering and is much better than top watering, since it will not cause the starter mix and seeds to run out of the pots. Bottom watering also encourages the new roots to reach downward.
Your plants must be hardened off before they can be planted in the garden. This means they are become acclimated to the temperature, wind and light differences between your house and the outdoors. After the last-frost date, take your seedlings outdoors for a few hours each day, leaving them in a spot where they will be sheltered from the sun and wind. After a few days, slowly expose them to the sun and wind, a little more each day, over the course of a week or two. This will allow them to make the adjustment without going into shock. Then, using your design sketch, transplant your seedlings into their permanent home in the garden.
Starting an herb garden indoors is an easy and creative way to stretch the growing season. With a little forethought and planning, growers can have herb seedlings ready to plant and the garden bed ready to receive them first thing next spring.
Even while the cold winters are still keeping eager gardeners indoors, there is plenty of work to be done. Winter is the best time to plan and start an herb garden. By planning the garden and starting seeds indoors weeks before the last frost, gardeners can, in effect, stretch the growing season, while ensuring the greatest possible yield from their plants.
As with any garden project, the first step is deciding what plants to include in your new garden. A logical starting point is the location of the plot. Will this bed receive adequate light? Most herbs require full sun to thrive, but a few can tolerate some shade. Check the area at different times throughout the day to determine whether it receives continuous or only partial sun. Keep in mind that light patterns may change with the seasons. An area that receives unobstructed sunlight in the winter and early spring may be in shade during the summer when trees have their leaves.
Next, determine which herbs you would like to grow. Decide if you are interested in growing herbs for culinary, medicinal, or aesthetic uses, or a combination. Refer to a good gardening book for descriptions of each herb, and start a chart showing how tall and wide each plant grows, how much space it requires between plants, and any other specific information about their characteristics. This is very important, since some plants have specific growing requirements. For instance, mint and violets are highly invasive, so these herbs might be better suited to containers rather than the garden itself.
Once armed with this information, you’re ready to design your garden. First, outline the dimensions of the bed on graph paper. Then indicate where you want each plant to go using circles with the plant’s name written inside. It may take more than one attempt if this is your first design effort, so try to enjoy the creative process.
If you have the luxury of space, you might try a formal design, with a birdbath or other focal point in the center, and gravel paths or stone walkways dividing the growing area surrounding it. Otherwise, simply arrange the plants according to height, so that the tallest ones will not cast shadows on the shorter ones. Be sure to consider how you will get to the farther plants, allowing enough room for you to pass among the herbs to tend and harvest them. Also, remember to space plants the proper distance apart; some will not grow well when crowded.
When you are happy with your new garden design, count the number of each plant that appears in it, and prepare a master list. Then purchase the supplies needed to start your plants from seed indoors. This will include seeds; starter trays, which have multiple compartments for starting many seeds in a small amount of space; enough peat pots for the number of plants you intend to grow; plastic liner trays to hold the peat pots; and a good soil mix. This is much lighter and less dense than regular potting soil, making it easier for the tender new roots to grow. If you are not sure how much soil mix to buy, ask an associate at your garden center. He or she can advise you on how much is needed to fill the starter trays and the number and size peat pots you are purchasing.
Some beginners like to start more plants than they need to fill their garden, and this is a good idea. If some plants don’t survive, the surplus will save you from having bare spots in the garden. If all your plants make it, you can always give the extras to family, friends, and neighbours, who will be glad for your talent and generosity.
Seed manufacturers recommend starting your seeds eight to twelve weeks before the date of your last frost. Check your seed packets for specific recommendations. When you are ready to begin, fill your starter trays with the soil mix. (An alternative to purchasing starter trays is to use egg cartons. Be sure to punch several small holes in each compartment for drainage.) Add a seed to each compartment, planting them to the depth specified on the seed packets. Mist to wet the soil. Seeds require warmth in order to germinate, so arrange your trays in a warm, well-ventilated room. Keep the soil moist. Germination time varies from one plant to another, so your seeds will not all sprout at precisely the same time.
While you’re waiting, prepare to meet the lighting requirements of your plants. Although very elaborate and expensive lighting systems are available for indoor gardening, many growers have found that simple fluorescent shop lights cost much, much less and are equally effective. The light must be suspended about 30 centimeters from the top of the plants, so you must be able to raise the lights as the plants grow. As soon as your seeds begin to sprout, move the trays to their new home beneath the lights.
When your plants have sprouted their first set of true leaves, they should be transplanted into the peat pots. Place the pots in the plastic trays, then add water to the tray. It will take awhile, but eventually the water will be soaked up along the sides of the pots and throughout the soil mix. This is called bottom watering and is much better than top watering, since it will not cause the starter mix and seeds to run out of the pots. Bottom watering also encourages the new roots to reach downward.
Your plants must be hardened off before they can be planted in the garden. This means they are become acclimated to the temperature, wind and light differences between your house and the outdoors. After the last-frost date, take your seedlings outdoors for a few hours each day, leaving them in a spot where they will be sheltered from the sun and wind. After a few days, slowly expose them to the sun and wind, a little more each day, over the course of a week or two. This will allow them to make the adjustment without going into shock. Then, using your design sketch, transplant your seedlings into their permanent home in the garden.
Starting an herb garden indoors is an easy and creative way to stretch the growing season. With a little forethought and planning, growers can have herb seedlings ready to plant and the garden bed ready to receive them first thing next spring.
Starting A Herb Garden
Having access to a small herb garden can be as simple as having a nice large squatty pot just outside your kitchen door containing a few of your favorite herbs containing sweet basil, purple leaf basil, chives and flat leaf parsley.
Your food preference tastes should dictate what you would like to grow. Two favorites that almost everyone would agree upon are parsley and chives. Their mild flavors are very versatile and can be used in any variety of cuisine.
Perhaps you want your mini garden within arms reach of your cooking area. All you have to do is design a window box or group of planters for your kitchen. When creating this mini herb garden, decide where your box will be located.
The amount of sun that you get in the chosen window will dictate which herbs to select. Northern exposures are generally sunny and hot. Good choices are are thyme, coriander, French lavender, bay laurel, basil, lemon verbena, dill, parsley, chives, sage and rosemary. A nice combination of both upright and trailing herbs is attractive, so consider adding creeping thymes or oregano or to you mini garden for a little eye appeal.
Souther exposures will provide more shade and are not as warm. Shade loving plants that will work nice here include parsley, spearmint, peppermint, lemon balm, chives, borage, and Cuban oregano.
Fill your container(s) half full of potting soil mix with equal parts of potting soil, peat moss and vermiculite. Move and place plants until you are pleased with how the design looks. Remember to keep in mind the mature sizes of the plants and what their growth habits are. Do not place a
plant that will mature at 50 centimeters in front of a plant that will mature no taller than 5 centimeters. Don't fear mixing plants together - it will not hurt anything.
Once you have settled on the placement of the plants, add potting soil to about 2 centimeters below the rim of the container. Tamp the soil down firmly and liberally water. Pinch back any large growth to promote thick growth.
Patio Herbs
When planning an herb garden outside, you can start modestly with a few pots on the patio or located on a bakers rack. Some herbs like sage, thyme and mint are available in different colors, so that you can make an attractive bed in various shades.
Construct the bed as close as possible to the house, so you do not neglect to gather the herbs for cooking during wet weather. Whenever possible, grow each type of herb in a separate pocket. You can actually divide the bed into distinct pockets with dwarf hedges of lavender or you can use concrete or stone pavers or stones to add a landscaped design. This way, herbs may easily be reached by footpaths and easily replaced without disturbing other plants that are nearby. Keeping plants harvested insures thick and hearty growth.
Since most herbs grow well in full sun to part shade, choose a spot for your garden that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Make sure there is good drainage and easy accessibility. When planning your garden, take into consideration the height and sizes of herbs.
Your food preference tastes should dictate what you would like to grow. Two favorites that almost everyone would agree upon are parsley and chives. Their mild flavors are very versatile and can be used in any variety of cuisine.
Perhaps you want your mini garden within arms reach of your cooking area. All you have to do is design a window box or group of planters for your kitchen. When creating this mini herb garden, decide where your box will be located.
The amount of sun that you get in the chosen window will dictate which herbs to select. Northern exposures are generally sunny and hot. Good choices are are thyme, coriander, French lavender, bay laurel, basil, lemon verbena, dill, parsley, chives, sage and rosemary. A nice combination of both upright and trailing herbs is attractive, so consider adding creeping thymes or oregano or to you mini garden for a little eye appeal.
Souther exposures will provide more shade and are not as warm. Shade loving plants that will work nice here include parsley, spearmint, peppermint, lemon balm, chives, borage, and Cuban oregano.
Fill your container(s) half full of potting soil mix with equal parts of potting soil, peat moss and vermiculite. Move and place plants until you are pleased with how the design looks. Remember to keep in mind the mature sizes of the plants and what their growth habits are. Do not place a
plant that will mature at 50 centimeters in front of a plant that will mature no taller than 5 centimeters. Don't fear mixing plants together - it will not hurt anything.
Once you have settled on the placement of the plants, add potting soil to about 2 centimeters below the rim of the container. Tamp the soil down firmly and liberally water. Pinch back any large growth to promote thick growth.
Patio Herbs
When planning an herb garden outside, you can start modestly with a few pots on the patio or located on a bakers rack. Some herbs like sage, thyme and mint are available in different colors, so that you can make an attractive bed in various shades.
Construct the bed as close as possible to the house, so you do not neglect to gather the herbs for cooking during wet weather. Whenever possible, grow each type of herb in a separate pocket. You can actually divide the bed into distinct pockets with dwarf hedges of lavender or you can use concrete or stone pavers or stones to add a landscaped design. This way, herbs may easily be reached by footpaths and easily replaced without disturbing other plants that are nearby. Keeping plants harvested insures thick and hearty growth.
Since most herbs grow well in full sun to part shade, choose a spot for your garden that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Make sure there is good drainage and easy accessibility. When planning your garden, take into consideration the height and sizes of herbs.
Growing Herbs Organically
People choose to grow herbs because of limited gardening space and the need for fresh herbs But before rushing out to the nearest garden center, consider several factors.
If the plot chosen has never been broken and is hard and dry, loosen the particles and allow water to penetrate the hardpan, water it liberally, let it set for 2 or 3 weeks, watering occasionally. The soil will be easier to dig. After the soil has been removed, layer the bottom of the bed with a layer of well-rotted manure. Various kinds of nutrients can be added to the mixture. Use small amounts of soil sulphur to break up heavy soil, kelp or fish meal adds nitrogen and phosphoric acid and potash, bloodmeal is a slow nitrogen release, bonemeal for root growth has 10% phosphoric acid for sturdy root development, soft rock phosphate promotes strong roots and vigorous top growth, and cottonseed meal adds nitrogen, phosphate and potassium.
Choose an irrigation system. Install it before planting seedlings or seeds. Annuals will need regular moisture, but perennials will establish deep roots after the first year. Wind dries the soil quickly, and seeds must be sprinkled several times a day, or the seeds will not germinate. Young plants are very tender, so seeds should be sown in the early spring. Birds love fresh greens! To avoid stress on seedlings, plant in an evening or on an overcast windless day. Using a row cover will also help the young plants survive.
For filling pots, buy the best soil mix available. Potted herbs will need frequent watering and fertilizing. A layer of mulch over the soil will help retain moisture. Follow the garden center's advice when transplanting native plants. A drip system can be established to meet the plants requirements. Set several filled pots near each other, making sure the various herbs are compatible.
Plants such as basil and parsley, whose leaves are constantly being removed, need a foiliar feed with a good quality fish emulsion every two or three weeks. Also herbs such as basil and the mints will need the flower tips pinched off, so the plant will continue growing new leaves and not go to seed.
Since the leaves and/or flowers are to be eaten, use caution about controlling pests. Herbs have strong scents and are used as companion plants for vegetables, but when they live alone, the pest could destroy the herbs. Some herbs are subject to root rot.
Mediterranean culinary herbs will need afternoon shade, and attention to moisture needs, especially until well established. Dill and fennel are among those herbs that will reseed year after year. Let some plants flower to attract bees and other beneficial insects. Parsley, dill, fennel, and lemon balm attract bees. Experiment with herbs those herbs that would not grow this year might flourish next year. Weather conditions cannot be predicted from year to year. And don't forget have fun!
ANISE HYSSOP is known as the honey plant because bees are attracted to the blossoms. The perennial can be started from seed or division. It needs a sunny well drained spot, fertile soil, and regular moisture to thrive. Leaves can be used either fresh or dried for tea or garnish.
BASIL is a fast-growing annual that can reach nearly a meter high. Prune to keep the plant bushy. Green ruffled leaves, red or purple leaves, and various flavors and scents are available. The leaves can be dried, or frozen for future use. Plant from seed when the ground is warm. It needs well-drained rich soil and compost.
If you have space, plant a BAY tree. At maturity it is 4 meters high, but can be can be potted and pruned. Since it prefers moist heat, give it dappled shade. Leaves can be dried and stored for soups and stews or used as insect repellent.
BEE BALM is known by many names: bergamot, monarda, and Oswego tea are a few. Hummingbirds and butterflies are attracted to the flowers. This perennial likes a moist soil and summer shade. Use the orange-flovored leaves fresh or dried in tea and salads.
BORAGE can grow to a meter high and wide. Since the leaves have bristly white hairs, plant it in a corner. Bees love the blue scentless flower. Borage repels insects and diseases in neighboring vegetation Use the young leaves and the flowers in salads..
BURNET leaves have a cucumber-like taste when picked while young. Cut the flower stems to ensure new leaves. This hardy perennial needs routine water and fertile soil with dappled shade. The lacy clumps reach a foot high and two feet wide, and can be used as ground cover or for borders. Use in salads, iced or hot tea, herb butters, and flavored vinegars.
CHAMOMILE comes in two forms. One, German (Matricaria recutita) is a tall annual, a meter high. Chamaemelum nobile, or Roman, is a short perennial and has a stronger fragrance. Currently it is used as a tea for nerves. The apple scent benefits cucumbers and onions. Both plants like well prepared soil, evenly moist, and shade in the heat.
CHICORY's bright blue flowers can be added to salads, but close after five hours from opening. The perennial reseeds easily, loves rich soil, but will grow in poor soil with less water. Use young tender leaves raw in salads, in cooked vegetables, and stir-fry dishes.
CHIVES are perennials in the desert. The cousins onions, garlic and shallots, contain Allicin, a germ killer. Garlic has the most, then onion, and small amounts in the rest. All species help deter aphids, so they can be planted anywhere in the landscape, except among legumes and sage. Use the flowers, fresh or dried, in salads and vinegars. Chop the leaves into egg dishes.
CILANTRO, the plant, or Coriander, the seeds are used widely The leaves have a strong sharp flavour, and most pests avoid the plants. The flowers attract pollinators. Keep planting seeds every two or three weeks. The plants grow fast in the heat. Use fresh leaves, not dried. Cilantro has long roots and is compatible with caraway. Too much Nitrogen robs the leaves of flavor.
The roots of COMFREY grow deeply, but needs plenty of water and shade. Plants may die back with frost, but roots remain. Bushy to a meter high, with hairy mineral rich leaves which decompose quickly, the plant is not to be eaten. The protein Allantoin, promotes healing to bind cuts. Comfrey can be quite invasive in a small garden and may be best grown in pots.
DILL has feathery foliage reaching a meter high and has a pungent scent when bruised. Sow seeds in full sun at 2 week intervals. It produces seeds the second year of growth. Dill enhances the growth of cabbage, onion and lettuce, but keep away from carrots and tomatoes. Bees will visit the yellow flowers.
Fennel, a relative of dill, grows taller but has a pleasant licorice scent. When fennel flowers, expect many bees. Fennel roots are toxic to many plants. Sow seeds in a corner where weeds might grow. The plants have deterred rabbits in gardens. Keep away from beans and peppers. Fennel tea is used for colicky babies, to soothe the stomach ache, and to regulate appetite.
GARLIC bulbs are grown as an annual, in well-drained soil with full sun and regular moisture. Buy a bulb, separate the cloves, plant base down with roses and other plants that attract aphids. After flowering, leaves turn yellow. Dig with care. Let the bulbs dry. To store, braid the leaves and hang. Elephant garlic has a milder flavor.
LEMON BALM belongs to the mint family, thus it spreads by underground and surface stems. Light shade and moist soil are its two requirements. Beekeepers often have the plant growing near hives. As with mint, cut back the leggy plants for young leaves to grow.
MARJORAM is a mint relative. The leaves and flavor resembles oregano, but has a different aroma. This Mediterranean native likes full sun, well-drained soil and average water requirements. Cut back the twiggy parts to overwinter.
MINTS thrive in part shade and with regular moisture. The roots can be invasive, causing many people to plant mints in pots.. Go lightly with organic matter and manure as these encourage rust. The roots grow rapidly and the plant will get leggy. Sprinkle fresh mint leaves to drive away mice. Mints come in many scents and flavors. Use in iced and hot tea, jelly, vinegars, salads and deserts.
NASTURTIUM flowers brighten winter days, but plants may die in summer's heat. Use both leaves and flowers as the peppery taste adds to salads. The large seeds grow easily. Seedlings do not transplant well. These annuals can vine or grow bushy. Colors range from white to deep orange and double reds. The root system deters some nematodes.
OREGANO can be a low-growing mat or tall bushy plants. Roots spread by underground stems. Dry or freeze the spicy leaf. Oregano prefers a slightly alkaline soil and heat. Plants can be started from seed, from cuttings or from division. The flavour of beans is enhanced when planted near oregano.
PARSLEY clumps make an attractive edging. Its leaves are used in a wide variety of foods, and can be dried or frozen. Good soil with afternoon shade and regular moisture are required.
ROSEMARY has a woody stem which will easily make new plants. The fragrant stiff needle-leaves pierce soft skins of snails and slugs. Use the low-growing variety as a hedge. Soft blue flowers attract bees. Plants can take reflected heat. The upright rosemary is for culinary use.
SAGE encourages the growth of carrots, cabbage, strawberries, and tomatoes, but not onions. Many varieties are available. The plants like full sun and do not require fertile soil. Water only until mature. Cut back in spring to prevent flowering. Use dried leaves in soups and as an insect repellent in flours and meals.
THYME is of the mint family, but needs well-drained soil, moderate watering, and afternoon shade. All varieties benefit eggplant, potatoes and tomatoes. None grow higher than 45 centimeters high. Cabbage worms and whiteflies are repelled. The fragrant blossoms attract bees.
Many gardeners believe, the leaves of YARROW increase the essential oils of other herbs, Its flowers attract predatory wasps and lady beetles. The plants thrive in full sun and poor soil, but will produce more flowers in better soil and moderate moisture. Choose from many varieties.
- Are culinary herbs the only consideration?
- Would herbs that traditionally are used to heal be included?
- Do native herbs appeal or have a place in the landscape?
- Has the mature size of the herb been investigated?
- Is a plot available, or will the plants always live in pots?
- Are the plants to be propagated for sale, or are they only for home use?
If the plot chosen has never been broken and is hard and dry, loosen the particles and allow water to penetrate the hardpan, water it liberally, let it set for 2 or 3 weeks, watering occasionally. The soil will be easier to dig. After the soil has been removed, layer the bottom of the bed with a layer of well-rotted manure. Various kinds of nutrients can be added to the mixture. Use small amounts of soil sulphur to break up heavy soil, kelp or fish meal adds nitrogen and phosphoric acid and potash, bloodmeal is a slow nitrogen release, bonemeal for root growth has 10% phosphoric acid for sturdy root development, soft rock phosphate promotes strong roots and vigorous top growth, and cottonseed meal adds nitrogen, phosphate and potassium.
Choose an irrigation system. Install it before planting seedlings or seeds. Annuals will need regular moisture, but perennials will establish deep roots after the first year. Wind dries the soil quickly, and seeds must be sprinkled several times a day, or the seeds will not germinate. Young plants are very tender, so seeds should be sown in the early spring. Birds love fresh greens! To avoid stress on seedlings, plant in an evening or on an overcast windless day. Using a row cover will also help the young plants survive.
For filling pots, buy the best soil mix available. Potted herbs will need frequent watering and fertilizing. A layer of mulch over the soil will help retain moisture. Follow the garden center's advice when transplanting native plants. A drip system can be established to meet the plants requirements. Set several filled pots near each other, making sure the various herbs are compatible.
Plants such as basil and parsley, whose leaves are constantly being removed, need a foiliar feed with a good quality fish emulsion every two or three weeks. Also herbs such as basil and the mints will need the flower tips pinched off, so the plant will continue growing new leaves and not go to seed.
Since the leaves and/or flowers are to be eaten, use caution about controlling pests. Herbs have strong scents and are used as companion plants for vegetables, but when they live alone, the pest could destroy the herbs. Some herbs are subject to root rot.
Mediterranean culinary herbs will need afternoon shade, and attention to moisture needs, especially until well established. Dill and fennel are among those herbs that will reseed year after year. Let some plants flower to attract bees and other beneficial insects. Parsley, dill, fennel, and lemon balm attract bees. Experiment with herbs those herbs that would not grow this year might flourish next year. Weather conditions cannot be predicted from year to year. And don't forget have fun!
ANISE HYSSOP is known as the honey plant because bees are attracted to the blossoms. The perennial can be started from seed or division. It needs a sunny well drained spot, fertile soil, and regular moisture to thrive. Leaves can be used either fresh or dried for tea or garnish.
BASIL is a fast-growing annual that can reach nearly a meter high. Prune to keep the plant bushy. Green ruffled leaves, red or purple leaves, and various flavors and scents are available. The leaves can be dried, or frozen for future use. Plant from seed when the ground is warm. It needs well-drained rich soil and compost.
If you have space, plant a BAY tree. At maturity it is 4 meters high, but can be can be potted and pruned. Since it prefers moist heat, give it dappled shade. Leaves can be dried and stored for soups and stews or used as insect repellent.
BEE BALM is known by many names: bergamot, monarda, and Oswego tea are a few. Hummingbirds and butterflies are attracted to the flowers. This perennial likes a moist soil and summer shade. Use the orange-flovored leaves fresh or dried in tea and salads.
BORAGE can grow to a meter high and wide. Since the leaves have bristly white hairs, plant it in a corner. Bees love the blue scentless flower. Borage repels insects and diseases in neighboring vegetation Use the young leaves and the flowers in salads..
BURNET leaves have a cucumber-like taste when picked while young. Cut the flower stems to ensure new leaves. This hardy perennial needs routine water and fertile soil with dappled shade. The lacy clumps reach a foot high and two feet wide, and can be used as ground cover or for borders. Use in salads, iced or hot tea, herb butters, and flavored vinegars.
CHAMOMILE comes in two forms. One, German (Matricaria recutita) is a tall annual, a meter high. Chamaemelum nobile, or Roman, is a short perennial and has a stronger fragrance. Currently it is used as a tea for nerves. The apple scent benefits cucumbers and onions. Both plants like well prepared soil, evenly moist, and shade in the heat.
CHICORY's bright blue flowers can be added to salads, but close after five hours from opening. The perennial reseeds easily, loves rich soil, but will grow in poor soil with less water. Use young tender leaves raw in salads, in cooked vegetables, and stir-fry dishes.
CHIVES are perennials in the desert. The cousins onions, garlic and shallots, contain Allicin, a germ killer. Garlic has the most, then onion, and small amounts in the rest. All species help deter aphids, so they can be planted anywhere in the landscape, except among legumes and sage. Use the flowers, fresh or dried, in salads and vinegars. Chop the leaves into egg dishes.
CILANTRO, the plant, or Coriander, the seeds are used widely The leaves have a strong sharp flavour, and most pests avoid the plants. The flowers attract pollinators. Keep planting seeds every two or three weeks. The plants grow fast in the heat. Use fresh leaves, not dried. Cilantro has long roots and is compatible with caraway. Too much Nitrogen robs the leaves of flavor.
The roots of COMFREY grow deeply, but needs plenty of water and shade. Plants may die back with frost, but roots remain. Bushy to a meter high, with hairy mineral rich leaves which decompose quickly, the plant is not to be eaten. The protein Allantoin, promotes healing to bind cuts. Comfrey can be quite invasive in a small garden and may be best grown in pots.
DILL has feathery foliage reaching a meter high and has a pungent scent when bruised. Sow seeds in full sun at 2 week intervals. It produces seeds the second year of growth. Dill enhances the growth of cabbage, onion and lettuce, but keep away from carrots and tomatoes. Bees will visit the yellow flowers.
Fennel, a relative of dill, grows taller but has a pleasant licorice scent. When fennel flowers, expect many bees. Fennel roots are toxic to many plants. Sow seeds in a corner where weeds might grow. The plants have deterred rabbits in gardens. Keep away from beans and peppers. Fennel tea is used for colicky babies, to soothe the stomach ache, and to regulate appetite.
GARLIC bulbs are grown as an annual, in well-drained soil with full sun and regular moisture. Buy a bulb, separate the cloves, plant base down with roses and other plants that attract aphids. After flowering, leaves turn yellow. Dig with care. Let the bulbs dry. To store, braid the leaves and hang. Elephant garlic has a milder flavor.
LEMON BALM belongs to the mint family, thus it spreads by underground and surface stems. Light shade and moist soil are its two requirements. Beekeepers often have the plant growing near hives. As with mint, cut back the leggy plants for young leaves to grow.
MARJORAM is a mint relative. The leaves and flavor resembles oregano, but has a different aroma. This Mediterranean native likes full sun, well-drained soil and average water requirements. Cut back the twiggy parts to overwinter.
MINTS thrive in part shade and with regular moisture. The roots can be invasive, causing many people to plant mints in pots.. Go lightly with organic matter and manure as these encourage rust. The roots grow rapidly and the plant will get leggy. Sprinkle fresh mint leaves to drive away mice. Mints come in many scents and flavors. Use in iced and hot tea, jelly, vinegars, salads and deserts.
NASTURTIUM flowers brighten winter days, but plants may die in summer's heat. Use both leaves and flowers as the peppery taste adds to salads. The large seeds grow easily. Seedlings do not transplant well. These annuals can vine or grow bushy. Colors range from white to deep orange and double reds. The root system deters some nematodes.
OREGANO can be a low-growing mat or tall bushy plants. Roots spread by underground stems. Dry or freeze the spicy leaf. Oregano prefers a slightly alkaline soil and heat. Plants can be started from seed, from cuttings or from division. The flavour of beans is enhanced when planted near oregano.
PARSLEY clumps make an attractive edging. Its leaves are used in a wide variety of foods, and can be dried or frozen. Good soil with afternoon shade and regular moisture are required.
ROSEMARY has a woody stem which will easily make new plants. The fragrant stiff needle-leaves pierce soft skins of snails and slugs. Use the low-growing variety as a hedge. Soft blue flowers attract bees. Plants can take reflected heat. The upright rosemary is for culinary use.
SAGE encourages the growth of carrots, cabbage, strawberries, and tomatoes, but not onions. Many varieties are available. The plants like full sun and do not require fertile soil. Water only until mature. Cut back in spring to prevent flowering. Use dried leaves in soups and as an insect repellent in flours and meals.
THYME is of the mint family, but needs well-drained soil, moderate watering, and afternoon shade. All varieties benefit eggplant, potatoes and tomatoes. None grow higher than 45 centimeters high. Cabbage worms and whiteflies are repelled. The fragrant blossoms attract bees.
Many gardeners believe, the leaves of YARROW increase the essential oils of other herbs, Its flowers attract predatory wasps and lady beetles. The plants thrive in full sun and poor soil, but will produce more flowers in better soil and moderate moisture. Choose from many varieties.
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