Composting tips

There are lots of innovative things you can do to help reduce your rubbish - check out some of the tips below to get started.

Tips about what can and can't be composted:

• Shredded paper can be composted.
• Paper can't be recycled if it's contaminated with food, but it can be composted. Next time you have pizza, don't dump the boxes in the rubbish bin - soak the box, break it into pieces and add it to your compost bin instead.
• Kids' lunches can be wrapped in paper instead of cling wrap. The used paper can be put in the compost.
• Compostable kitty litter takes longer to break down than regular compost. Put the kitty litter into a separate compost bin and add an equal amount of soil every time you add more.
• If the prunings from plants and shrubs are small enough they can be run over with the lawn mower and put on the compost heap.
• Don't compost pumpkin seeds. They often don't work very well in the compost - too hard for worms and they sprout - but they can be cleaned off and saved for salads and lunches.
  

Tips about worm farms:

• For people who don’t have enough garden waste to make their composting bin work effectively, a worm farm may be a better option.
• Worm farms take very little space and maintenance, and are a great way to get rid of most compostable food scraps. The 'juice' is really powerful as a fertilizer.

General composting tips:

• Buy two bins for the kitchen: one for rubbish, the other for compost. This will remove the need to separate compostable waste from non-compostable waste later on.
• A compost bucket can get messy and smelly. An easy way to keep a bucket clean is to put water in the bucket before adding scraps. (The water can be emptied on to pot plants.)
• If you have too much material for your compost bin, stick it in a black plastic household rubbish bag (thin-walled), loosely twist off the opening, and store it beside the compost bin. A few weeks later, the volume of material in the bag will have reduced and you should find worms have made their way in to the bag and started breaking the waste down. The waste can be added to the compost bin when there is room.
• You can compost directly into the garden itself. The vegetables will love you for it, and the compost will attract the worms to that area and the soil benefits directly.
• If your compost bin starts to smell offensively give it a turn - odour can be a sign of a lack of aeration.
• Contribute your organic matter to a neighbour’s compost if you don’t have one, or invest in a worm farm.

Growing Garlic At Home - Co-Planting

What Is Co-Planting?

The term co-planting ("companion planting") refers to growing different plants together with mutual benefits to both. Garlic is an especially friendly plant and can assist other crops in a variety of ways. Not only does growing garlic result in your own crop for the kitchen, it can assist the rest of your garden.

The main benefits of garlic to the home gardener are its natural fungicidal and pesticidal properties. These can help keep neighbouring plants healthy.

The powerful antibiotic and antifungal compound allicin is released when garlic cloves are crushed. This also occurs when the clove is bitten into. Thus pests attacking garlic are likely to release its natural pesticide. Some have speculated that allicin evolved this way as a defence mechanism for the crop.

Garlic co-planting is especially beneficial to lettuce (where it deters aphids) and cabbage (deterring many common pests).

As well as protecting other plants garlic can also improve their flavour. Beets and cabbage are reported to be especially good companions that benefit from this.

Not all companion planting combinations are beneficial. Garlic doesn't seem to cooperate well with legumes (beans and pulses), peas or potatoes. Try not to plant these too near your garlic.

As well as co-planting the cloves themselves, you can use garlic extracts to protect other crops. There is a long tradition of treating plants with garlic solution. Recently, scientists at Newcastle University confirmed scientifically that garlic oil is effective at repelling and even killing snails and slugs.

These properties make garlic an excellent choice for the gardener who wants to avoid artificial chemicals and prefers to grow crops as near organically as possible.

Growing Garlic At Home - Garlic Is Tasty & Healthy

GARLIC is a wonder food - it adds a savoury flavour to a variety of dishes, such as fish, pizza, soup, meat, salads, pasta and even rice, and it is packed with healthy goodness.

Garlic's health benefits include the ability to lower high blood pressure and the risk of illness and infections. It may also cut the risks of heart disease and cancer. It is most beneficial when eaten raw.

The garlic plant has an underground storage head, made up of about 12 separate cloves or bulbs. Unlike onions, which are made up of numerous leaf layers, a garlic clove is made up of a single leaf base.

Called a "stinking rose" by the ancient Greeks, it is a member of the Allium sativum family, a cousin of onions, chives and leeks. Garlic has a powerful, spicy flavour when raw, which mellows considerably when it is cooked. Cooking reduces the plant's benefits. Raw or cooked, however, garlic is known for its strong odour.

When the bulb is crushed or chewed, one of its sulphur compounds, alliin, becomes allicin, the chemical responsible for the typical garlic smell, as well as its health benefits. That smell often lingers on the breath after eating garlic; chewing fresh parsley or a pinch of fennel seeds helps to counteract this. A drop or two of peppermint essential oil on the tongue will also help eliminate bad breath.

These days, the health benefits of garlic are so sought-after, the plant is often consumed in tablet form to promote good health.

Indeed, Reader's Digest's The Healing Power of Vitamins, Minerals and Herbs reports that consuming garlic may prevent hardening of the aorta, the artery that carries oxygenated blood from the heart. This hardening occurs naturally with age. In one study, 200 people took either garlic supplements or a placebo daily for two years. It was found that the aortas of the 70-year-olds in the garlic group were as supple as those of the 55-year-olds who did not take the supplement.

According to the website of Britain's Garlic Information Centre, garlic is "the only antibiotic that can actually kill infecting bacteria and at the same time protect the body from the poisons that are causing the infection".

It also reports that garlic reduces the chances of pre-eclampsia in pregnancy, a serious condition in which blood pressure increases dangerously. Garlic also boosts the foetus's weight during pregnancy, resulting in a heavier baby, it says.

Garlic contains vitamins A, B1, B2 and C, making it helpful in preventing colds and flu. For many years garlic was combined with ginger to treat or prevent influenza. Ginger is a knotted underground stem. Used in sweet and savoury dishes, it is known as a good remedy for digestive problems such as mild indigestion, flatulence, nausea and vomiting.

To store garlic, keep it in a dry, well-ventilated place. However, do not put it in the fridge, as this might cause mould. Planting garlic is easy - and it can be grown successfully in a home garden or backyard. To plant, choose the largest cloves and sow them root end down, standing erect, about 25 millimetres deep. Plant the cloves about 100 millimetres apart.

Garlic prefers growing in cold weather. When the weather is wet towards harvest time, consider lifting them a bit earlier and drying them under cover, or the outer parchment may rot. The better the leaf growth before bulbing starts, the bigger the bulb and the cloves will be.

Cloves planted in early winter will have longer exposure to the cold and will respond to the lengthening days more quickly than those planted later. However, early planting also carries the risk of the cloves rotting in the cold, wet soil.

Growing Garlic At Home - Facts About Garlic

Here are a few facts about garlic.

• Studies around the world have shown garlic to be beneficial in fighting heart disease, cancer, diabetes, infections and other illnesses.
• Crushed garlic can be used as a dressing for external wounds. It was used extensively and successfully in The Second World War for its antibiotic and antiseptic qualities.
• Garlic contains a wide range of trace minerals. These include copper, iron, zinc, magnesium, germanium, and especially selenium. In addition, garlic contains many sulphur compounds, vitamins A and C, fibre, and various amino acids.
• The mature garlic plant produces a bulb, sometimes called a head of garlic, with numerous individual cloves inside the paper-like wrapper. An individual clove when planted will reproduce an entire bulb after about 9 months.
• The use of garlic dates back to the early Egyptians, over 5,000 years ago. Egyptian slaves downed tools when their daily ration of garlic was removed, thus becoming the first ever known labour strike. Six bulbs of garlic were discovered in King Tutankhamen tomb.
• All varieties of garlic (and there over 450) are members of the Lily family.
• Fresh garlic is generally odour-free until crushed.
• It is the polysulphide allicin, as well as other substances such as adenosine and ajoene, that are key to garlic’s health benefits.
• The amount of allicin garlic can produce does not depend upon the cultivar. It can vary by as much as twenty-fold and is dependent upon soil and climate conditions. Generally speaking, Chinese garlic has the potential to produce the most allicin.
• Allicin dissipates over a period of ± 48 hours, therefore crushing fresh garlic is the only sure way of ensuring allicin will be present.

Harvesting Your Herbs

Reaping your bountiful herb harvest is a very simple process, but a few tips can improve your harvest and preserve the health of your plants.

1. Give young, recent transplants time to adjust to their new home in the garden, and sufficient time to grow before the first harvest.
2. When harvesting herbs for cooking, harvest them the same day you are going to use them to preserve freshness.
3. Never cut off more than one-third of a plant at a time, and give young plants time to re-grow before harvesting from them again.
4. Use sharp scissors and make a clean cut on the stem, taking care not to cut any leaves. Never pull leaves off of a plant.
5. When harvesting culinary herbs for drying, harvest just before the plant produces blooms to ensure the highest oil content in the leaves.
6. When harvesting plants for bloom (i.e. lavender), cut the blooms just before the earliest blooms on the stem start to wither.
7. On annual herbs, always harvest from the growing tips of the stems, like ‘pinching back’ the plant. This will make the plant produce more leaves, reduce flowering, and lengthen the life of the plant.
8. On perennials, always consider the shape of the plant, and make sure that your cutting does not misshape the plant. Think of this harvesting as a ‘mini pruning’.
9. When harvesting chives, always cut spears at the base of the plant. This will encourage new growth.

Growing Herbs for Cooking

Cuisine Herbs
If you cook with herbs then you might have already thought about growing your own herbs for cooking. It's easier than you might think as well. You can learn how to set up a small herb garden, how to cultivate and prepare herbs as well as what herbs to use with certain foods. In no time at all, you can become an herb specialist and your food will be all the better for it!

There are many different types of herbs such as culinary herbs, aromatic herbs, medicinal and much more. The Brooklyn Botanic Garden Handbook on Herbs lists 73 different types of herbs. There are many common and non-common herbs and if you are a beginner culinary herb gardener, there are some that may be easier for you to start with. Parsley, thyme, savory, marjoram, mint, chives and basil are some common herbs used in cooking.

Herbs for Beginners

If you are a beginner herb gardener, you might not know what herbs to plant since there are so many to choose from. It is a good idea to get a variety of flavors and uses in cooking so that you are not stuck with all one kind of herb. You can choose from:

• Strong herbs such as rosemary, sage and winter savory
• Accent herbs such as dill, mint, sweet basil, sweet marjoram and thyme
• Blending herbs such as chives, summer savory and parsley

These are great to start out with and over time you might want to move into other interests and less common herbs. Remember that there are annuals, biennials and perennials to choose from. The climate will also effect the type of herb you choose. Annuals include anise, basil, chervil, coriander, dill and summer savory. Some samples of Biennials are caraway and parsley. Perennials are chives, fennel, lovage, marjoram, mint, tarragon, thyme and winter savory.

Of course this is not a complete list but it gives you an idea. Annuals are herbs that will bloom only for one season and then they die. Biennials live for two seasons but they only bloom on the second season and perennials bloom each season once they have been established so they are very popular.

Preparation and Drying

Once you have grown the herbs and you are ready to actually use them, it requires some preparation. You have to dry the herbs before you use them in cooking. Most herbs reach their peak just before flowering so you can collect them then for drying and storage.

Cut the herbs in the early morning when the dew has just dried. You should cut annuals off at ground level and perennials about a third way down the stem. Now wash the herbs with the leaves on the stem in cold water to remove dirt, dust, bugs, etc. You can drain them on towels or by hanging upside down in the sun to let the water evaporate.

Next you will strip all the leaves off the stalk leaving only about the top six inches. Be sure you also remove any blossoms. You know that the herbs have to be properly dried before storing and certain hers such as mint and basil need to be dried quickly or they mold. One way of natural air drying is to hang them in the dark in paper bags. Be sure to hang upside down because this lets essential oils flow from the stems to the leaves.

The room should be about 20 to 25 degrees and be well ventilated and dust and dirt free. It normally takes about 1 to 2 weeks for the herbs to be completely dry and feel crumbly.

If you need to dry quickly you can use an oven. Place the leaves or seeds on a cookie sheet and cook on low heat (less than 90 degrees C) for about 2 to 4 hours. You can also put them in the microwave for about 3 minutes, mixing them around every 30 seconds so they dry evenly. Once your herbs are properly dried you can store them until use.

Which Herbs for Which Foods

There are so many different types of herbs that it may be hard to know which herbs are good for which foods. There are no set rules for this but some general guidelines are set below.

Basil is good for tomatoes and other vegetables as well as fish, meat, poultry, potatoes, cheese, garlic and summer fruit. Thyme is good on meats as well as soups and stew and vegetable dishes. Nasturtium is a good garnish for salads, entrees and desserts and sage is good on meat and fish dishes. Oregano is best on Italian dishes and dill is good for many things such as chicken, fish, beef, asparagus, beans, beets, carrots, cabbage, corn, cucumbers, mushrooms, onions, tomatoes, breads, eggs and cheese. Mint is also often used for flavor in drinks and sauces. A good rule of thumb is to remember that you don't want the herbs to over power the food, and you don't want the herb to get lost in the flavor of the dish you are using it in. A more pungent or stronger herb marries well with a more robust meat or food and a more subtle herb goes well with a lighter dish.

Herbs to grow indoors

Here are some of the herbs which will grow well indoors. Choose as many of these as you can find room for. They will bring fragrance to your home, exciting taste to your foods, and a little fillip to your imagination.

ANISE
Hung over your bed, anise may not make you as fair and youthful as our ancestors believed, but surely the new interest which it brings to foods will keep your appetite young. Although anise is generally grown for its sweet seed, the fresh leaves are appetizing in fruit salads, soups, stews and herb teas.

Start anise from seed or bring in a young plant from the garden and let it have plenty of sunlight.

BASIL
This herb grows particularly well in the kitchen, for it doesn't mind the heat. Keep the plants trim by using the leaves generously in salads, stews, ground meats, poultry stuffings and fruit cups. It is a necessity in any dish containing tomato, or with fresh tomatoes. If you have enough basil, sprays are beautiful in bouquets.

Start basil from seeds or bring in healthy small plants from the garden. You can put three or four light green, smooth-leaved basil plants in the same container. In the spring I set the basil plants back in the garden. These plants can be counted on to produce seed. This is not always true of those raised the first year from seed, because our growing season is too short for seeds to ripen thoroughly.

BORAGE
Although borage is more attractive in the garden than in the house, a pot containing three or four plants will furnish young cucumber-flavored leaves for salads and cool drinks.

If it blooms, the blue flowers are worth the space given this somewhat coarse, hairy-leafed plant. Borage loses its flavor when dried, so use its young, tender leaves. Start the borage from seed or bring in young plants from the garden.

CHERVIL
This fine-leaved herb resembles parsley in looks but not in taste. It is too lovely to look at and too good to eat to be left out of the kitchen herb garden. Bring in a plant and use the fresh anise-flavored leaves for garnishing and to season sauces, soups and salads. The white blossoms are small and fragile. It will germinate rapidly and may be grown from seed.

CHIVES
A clump of chives may be bought at almost any grocery store. If you have both an outdoor and indoor garden, divide a large plant and bring part of it to the kitchen window. The spikey leaves are excellent wherever a delicate onion taste is desired.

DILL
The Orientals used dill in brewing up charms. We “charm” our guests by using its seeds in pickles, fish sauces and salads, but Europeans use the leaves, too, in cooking. Why not try them?

PARSLEY
This herb, one of the oldest known to man, is as popular today as always. When grown in a sunny window in a glazed or metal pot so that the roots will not dry out, it will thrive for a long time. Use rather small plants, for the taproots of mature plants are long. Parsley does better in a cool temperature. Do not use fertilizer. Although parsley will do well inside, it will not be as strong and full as when it grows outdoors. The curly-leafed variety is the prettiest, the flat-leafed type the tastiest.

If you do not have a plant to bring in from the garden, it should be easy to get one from a nursery.

ROSE GERANIUM
Best-known and easiest to find of the fragrant-leaved geraniums is the rose geranium. The leaves are useful in potpourris, sachets and in bouquets, and they are soothing in the tub. A bit of leaf in a cup of tea gives an indescribable fragrance. If you don't know how to use it in apple jelly and cakes.

Start new plants with cuttings from an established plant. Since they are sensitive to cold, you must bring rose geraniums indoors in the winter.

ROSEMARY
Rosemary, the herb of poetry and legend, is not easy to grow, but it is worth the trouble. Grown in a pot as a house plant, it may be less than a foot tall and its lower branches will fall gracefully over the sides of the pot. The leaves resemble long, oval pine needles, particularly when dried. The leaves of rosemary are more fragrant than the flowers, and when gently crushed, they will give off the warm odor of pine.

Rosemary is a tropical plant, and it must be cut back, potted and brought indoors before frost. Your first plant should be purchased from a nursery as it is hard to start rosemary from seed.

SAGE
If you can find a small sage bush, it may be brought indoors. Its furry grey-green leaves are attractive and its fragrance pleasant. Although you will probably use sage which you dried during the summer, a growing plant gives a nice variation in hue to your indoor garden.

TARRAGON
Tarragon must be brought in for the winter in most climates, and may be set back in the garden in the spring. Early in the summer, start new plants from cuttings, for tarragon does not set seed which will germinate. Plunge the new plants in the earth, pots and all, and let them grow during the summer. When the first heavy frost causes the leaves to fall, you can trim back the stems and transfer the plants to larger pots for wintering indoors. Its young leaves are delicious in eggs, fish, meat and poultry dishes and salads. Plants must be purchased at a nursery.

THYME
Thyme will thrive in your window. Use it sparingly, in poultry stuffings, stuffed peppers, onions, zucchini squash, in meat and fish dishes. Start thyme from seed, and make sure that it has a sunny spot in which to grow.

Growing An Indoor Herb Garden

Instead of planting a big outdoor herb garden consider planting one indoors. Many smaller varieties and dwarf varieties of herbs grow quite well in small pots that can be placed on a kitchen window sill. Now when you are cooking you do not have to run to your outside garden to pick a few herbs to add to your cooking. You can just simply turnaround and grab a few leaves!

It's easy to grow your own indoor herb garden. Many kits are available that have everything that you need to get started. Look for the chia herb garden which is a fun way to get the kids involved too. You can enjoy the same benefits that you would outside, but with a few distinct advantages with an indoor herb garden.

Advantages Of An Indoor Herb Garden

With an indoor herb garden you can easily monitor your plants. You will notice quickly if they need any maintenance. If they need a quick misting you can accomplish the task with little effort. Outdoor gardens are more frequently overlooked. Indoors you will not have issues with bugs eating the leaves of your herbs. You will not have to contend with trying to find a safe chemical that can be used to treat your herbs to keep bugs away.

You can do it within the comfort of your own home when it is time to harvest all of your fresh herbs. You will not have to deal with mosquitoes or other bugs while you are trying to garden.

When you plant an indoor herb garden you can bring in the wonderful fragrance that they provide. Now your kitchen will smell delicious like fresh basil or rosemary. Being surrounded by the fragrances of an indoor herb garden might even inspire your cooking. Instead of using dried herbs that have been sitting in a cabinet, any meals you do cook will now taste even better as you will be able to add fresh herbs.

Having an indoor herb garden will also protect any other plants that might be in your garden. Known to be extremely invasive are some species of herbs. Once they start growing they are hard to stop and before you know it your herb garden has taken over. By planting your herbs in small individual pots inside you can control its spreading.

Plants can make indoor spaces feel warm and cozy. Why not add a few practical plants to your kitchen to achieve the same result. You can generate an inviting atmosphere while growing herbs to use in your cooking.

Growing your own indoor herb garden is simple. Several kits are available that have everything that you need to get started. Now when you are cooking you do not have to run to your outside garden to choose a few herbs to add to your cooking.

Organic protection from pests

You may have heard of Integrated Pest Management and wondered what it meant. Integrated Pest Management is a fancy way to describe the practice of planning and working in your lawn or garden to prevent weeds and pests, using chemicals only as the last resort. Here are some basic steps:

1. Learn about the plants and the weeds and bugs that affect them.
2. Choose the right plants. Plant native species whenever possible. Native plants are better protected by their own “immune systems” and their relationships with other plants and animals in the area. You may also look for plants that are pest-resistant. Diversifying the garden with a variety of plants will help the plants protect each other from pests. For example, small flowered plants like daisies, mint, and rosemary attract many insects that eat the pests. Check with a local garden shop or nursery for recommendations.
3. Maintain healthy, fertile soil by rotating your plants, adding compost, and mulching.
4. Plant early to avoid the worst bug season.
5. Allow growth of the pests’ natural predators. Ladybugs, ground beetles, and birds eat many pests, and fungi and moss can infect the pests naturally. Spraying chemicals often kills the beneficial bugs too.
6. Get out there and work with your hands! A hoe, spade, and your hands are the best tools to combat weeds. Getting close to your plants will help you identify problems and remove pests and damaged plants by hand. Tilling can eliminate many weeds as well. Pruning plants helps remove diseased parts, leaving the plant's nutrients for the healthy parts. Always prune back to a main branch or stem; leaving "stubs" opens a door for pests.
7. Keep a garden journal in which you record when you see pests, what they look like, what they have done to the plants, and the actions taken. In this way, you will learn what works and what doesn't while experimenting with new techniques.

Organic Pest Control

The keys for natural pest control in your home and in your garden are modification and prevention. In generalities, natural pest control is defined as the use of techniques, products and methods that won't put human health or the environment at risk.

More often than not, very simple changes that you make to your home or garden can drastically change and reduce pest populations on your property. When it comes to natural pest control, the idea is that before you reach for the phone to call an exterminator, or grab a pesticide and spray it yourself, you can take steps to get rid of the problem in a far less invasive way.

First and foremost, you should monitor the pest problem. Find out what they are, where they are entering and exiting your home and what they are feeding on. Once you have a better understanding of the pest or pests you are dealing with, you can better make a determination on how to deal with the problem.

Modification is important when it comes to a pest's ability to enter and exit your home. Do structural repairs as they are needed, like caulking cracks in the foundation, making certain that windows and doors are sealing properly and repairing damaged or missing screens. If the pest's are in the habit of getting in through crevices and open doors, modify those habits by sealing them off.

Many pests are attracted to spills like greasy or sugary liquids, poorly stored pet food, and uncovered garbage. Eliminating the possibility of food sources for many outdoor and indoor pests can often eliminate the pest problem.

Prevention comes when you continue upkeep of structural repairs, maintain proper sanitation and housekeeping practices, and keep food storage well sealed.

Although these practices aren't fool proof ways to ensure that you will have no problems with pest infestations, natural pest control practices do help in reducing the possibility without increasing your potential for harm by using chemicals and pesticides.

Compost Ingredients

Building a compost pile creates more anxiety and obsession among gardeners than any other gardening activity. So before you start a pile, remember one thing: Relax. "There's no right or wrong way of composting, and people get panicked that they have the wrong recipe," says Dr. Maynard. "Composting is a natural phenomenon—it's decomposing; you're just helping it along a bit." That said, there are good, bad, and so-so compost ingredients. So before you add an ingredient to your pile, make sure it's up to the compost quality-control test. Ask yourself four basic questions about each ingredient:

1. Is it biodegradable?
2. Will it help make high-quality, nutrient-rich compost?
3. Did it come from a chemical-free lawn?
4. Is it free of disease, toxins, and other contaminants?

If you answer "no" or "I don't know" to any of these questions, forgo adding the ingredient to your pile. It's that easy. Mix and match the green and brown ingredients listed below until you find a compost recipe that works for you. Just keep in mind the carbon-to-nitrogen (C/N) ratio as you build your pile.

Extra(ordinary) Ingredients

Green goodies

• Aquarium water, algae, and plants (from freshwater fish tanks only) add moisture and a kick of nitrogen.
• Chicken manure has high amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.
• Dead houseplants add a dose of nitrogen, but don't include thorny or diseased plants.
• Fresh grass clippings should be mixed with plenty of drier, brown material, or you'll risk creating a smelly pile.
• Green garden debris, such as spent pansies, bolted lettuce, and deadheaded flowers, can all be recycled in the compost bin.
• Horse manure contains more nitrogen than cow manure.
• Manure from pet rabbits and rodents(e.g., gerbils and hamsters) can be composted with the accompanying wood or paper bedding.
• Vegetative kitchen scraps (carrot peelings and the like) should be buried in the pile so they don't attract animals. Eggshells are okay, too.
• Weeds can be composted! No joke. Just remember never to add weeds that have set seed or weeds that root easily from stems or rhizomes, such as bindweed and thistle.

Brown goodies

• Brown garden debris, such as corn and sunflower stalks, dried legume plants, and dried potato and tomato vines, adds bulk to the pile.
• Hedge prunings and twigs help keep a pile fluffy but should be chipped first so they decompose faster.
• Leaves are an abundant carbon source and full of nutrients. Stockpile them in fall so that you have them on hand in summer.
• Pine needles decompose slowly. Add only small amounts to your pile. Use excess needles as a mulch.
• Straw bulks up a pile, but it should not be confused with hay, which often contains weed and grass seeds and shouldn't be added to compost (unless you want to deal with the potential consequences).

The No-No List
The following items should never be added to compost, because they could introduce harmful pathogens, toxins, and nonbiodegradable material.

• Diseased plants must be disposed of in the garbage or burned. Adding them to compost could spread the disease.
• Dog, cat, pig, and reptile manures (and associated bedding) may contain parasites or dangerous pathogens that are harmful to humans, particularly pregnant women, children, and people with compromised immune systems. Never add them to your compost.
• Gypsum board scraps could contain paint and other undesirable toxins.
• Materials from the side of the road, including grass clippings and leaves, could contain petroleum residues (such as oil), toxins, and nonbiodegradable materials.
• Meats, dairy products, bones, and fish decompose slowly, smell, and attract animals.
• Paper, especially glossy paper, printed with colored ink, may contain heavy metals. Black-and-white newspaper is safe.

The So-So List
Many things found in the average home are nontoxic and biodegradable and come from a known source—but they aren't great compost ingredients because they break down slowly, mat together, or don't add many nutrients.

• Black-and-white newsprint and office paper can be used in the compost pile if you're desperate for brown materials, but they must be shredded. Try using the newspaper in sheet mulching projects and recycling office paper instead.
• Cardboard is best used in sheet mulching. Shred or chop it into small pieces if composting.
• Dryer lint may contain synthetic fibers that will never decompose. Even natural-fiber lint adds no benefit to compost.
• Human and pet hair can be added in small amounts, if you keep in mind that it breaks down slowly, mats easily, and sheds water.
• Natural-fiber cloth doesn't add any benefit to the compost pile. Consider using burlap bags under wood chips to prevent weeds instead.
• Sawdust must be used in moderation, because it breaks down very slowly and can lock up nitrogen. Never use sawdust from treated or painted wood.
• Vacuum bags may contain synthetic carpet fibers and other nonbiodegradable items.
• Wood ash adds potassium (potash), but it is an extremely alkaline material and should be used in small amounts.
• Wood chips should be used as mulch around ornamentals because they break down so slowly.

Cowpie caution
Cow manure may contain E. coli O157:H7, a very dangerous pathogen that can cause severe illness and even death. "It's hard to meet time and temperature requirements to kill pathogens in a home compost pile," says soil scientist Craig Cogger, Ph.D. We don't recommend adding it to home compost ever because of the health risk. But if you're tempted to use it, you must wait at least four months after you add it to your soil before you can harvest, to make sure the pathogens are no longer active. Wear gloves when handling manure and wash your hands thoroughly.

Basic Leaf Mold

Instead of carting leaves to the curb, recycle them the way nature does, by turning them into an invaluable soil builder. Leaf mold greatly improves the structure and water-holding capacity of soil. It also creates the perfect conditions for the community of beneficial organisms that dwell in your soil, and it's great in potting mix.

There's really no excuse not to make leaf mold. It's free, easy-to-make, and readily available. If you don't have enough leaves in your own yard, trade raking duty with your neighbors in exchange for theirs. Before you use leaves that have fallen on your neighbors' lawns, be sure to ask them if the grass has recently been sprayed with synthetic chemicals. If so, don't use the leaves. Grass clippings with chemical residues can get mixed in with the leaves and contaminate them, says William Brinton, Ph.D., director of the Woods End Research Laboratory, in Maine. Still, Dr. Brinton explains, chemical contamination is not a significant concern with leaf mold because its lengthy decomposition time allows for chemicals to break down as well. Do not use leaves that have been raked into the street for municipal pickup, because they may contain lots of sand, fuel, or oil residues.

Do-It-Yourself Leaf Mold
Making leaf mold couldn't be easier. Start by ensuring that the leaves are thoroughly moistened, says Abigail Maynard, Ph.D., of the Connecticut Agriculture Experiment Station. Dehydrated leaves begin to lose nitrogen, and this hinders the decomposition process. Here are two ways to transform leaves into leaf mold.

• The lazy gardener. Pile leaves in a sheltered, inconspicuous area of your yard and leave them for two years.
• The ambitious gardener. Make a 3-by-3-foot leaf mold "cage" from stakes and chicken wire. Speed up the leaves' rate of decomposition by running a lawn mower over the pile a few times. To ensure even decomposition, Dr. Maynard suggests, turn the pile occasionally.

Using Leaf Mold
Now, here's how to use this nutrient-rich soil conditioner.

• Peat substitute. Use leaf mold in place of peat because it has similar qualities and it's a renewable resource.
• Moisture-retaining mulch. Leaf mold can hold up to 500 times its own weight in water. Place it around (but not touching) the crowns of annuals, perennials, and vegetables to help them maintain moisture during summer.
• Soil conditioner. It's easier for roots to penetrate soil and take up nutrients when the soil is not as dense. Dr. Maynard and her colleagues in Connecticut completed a 12-year study on the role leaf mold plays in changing soil characteristics. They found that garden soil amended with leaf mold had a 20 percent lower bulk density than soil to which leaf mold was not added.
• Drought-proof soil. The Connecticut study also found that soils amended with leaf mold increased their water-holding capacity by almost 50 percent. The amended soil could hold nearly a two-week supply of water for vegetables. Caution: This water-holding capacity can be a problem for seeds planted in early spring, because they may rot in the cool, wet soil. Dr. Maynard suggests planting extra seeds to compensate for seeds lost to rot.
• Seedling mix. Mix one part leaf mold with one part well-aged compost or worm castings for a nutrient-rich potting mixture for seedlings.

What Is It?
Leaf mold: Leaves that have fully decomposed over a long time.

Leaf compost: Compost made by mixing leaves with other organic materials.

Humus: The dark, spongy material created when microorganisms break down organic matter. Leaf mold and leaf compost both eventually turn into humus.

Organic Pesticide - What is an organic Pesticide?

Will the real organic pesticide please stand up? by Gerhard Verdoorn

"Since when are organic pesticides not chemicals?" asks Prof Gerhard Verdoorn, Director of BirdLife SA. The word 'organic' is probably one of the most abused in the English language as far as a chemist is concerned. Consumers lured into believing the promises of so-called organic pesticides, take heed, there is no such thing as an environmentally friendly pesticide, says Verdoorn, they are designed to kill.

Pesticides are as old as modern civilizations and were first recorded long before the Renaissance in both the Western world and the Orient. Development of modern pesticides took a quantum leap forwards after the First World War and the developments advanced even faster after the Second World War. In a rapidly changing world people realize the importance of safer agricultural practices and in particular the more responsible use of pesticides. The question is, however, how do we achieve effective food production while minimizing the impacts of pesticides on the broader environment? The same question holds true for the control of garden and household pests.

"Organic" pesticides

It has recently become a favourite topic of the environmental lobby to promote the so-called 'organic pesticides' while slating the classic pesticides as environmentally damaging. The word 'organic' is perhaps the most misused and misunderstood word as far as pesticides are concerned and leaves someone like me as an Organic Chemist with a rather bitter taste on the tongue. Organic in scientific terms means a molecule that consists mainly of a carbon skeleton with other elements such as hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur, phosphorus and a few others as contributing building blocks. The majority of modern pesticide molecules are organic and fit in 100% with the scientific classification of organic. The so-called organic pesticides should thus definitely be called natural as they are also mostly organic (in scientific terms) but are strictly of natural origin. The classic pesticides that are often referred to as chemical pesticides are in fact all chemicals but they are synthetic (such as organophosphates) or semi-synthetic (such as pyrethroids) whereas the natural pesticides are chemicals of a natural origin such as salts of fatty acids and plant oils. Some of the so-called organic pesticides contain active ingredients such as copper octanoate. Any environmentalist that is worth his or her salt will know that copper is extremely damaging to the environment, yet the marketing agencies of these products brand them as environmentally friendly organic pesticides. Copper is inorganic and at best the product may be branded as organo-metallic.
Synthetic pesticides

Synthetic pesticides are in most cases highly effective against the pests that they are registered for, have a good residual activity (which means they are active for a certain length of time) and are fairly cheap, depending on where the consumer acquires them from. The dangers of synthetic pesticides lie in their toxicity to life forms and their persistence in the environment. Note that different classes of synthetic pesticides have different toxicities towards different organisms and have a highly variable range of persistence in the environment. There is no such thing as an environmentally friendly pesticide; they are designed to kill and that is what they will do in varying degrees of efficacy. As conservationists we should be concerned with biodiversity and that means all life forms and not just the birds and mammals. Pyrethroids for example may be quite soft on mammals and birds but this particular group of semi-synthetic pesticides is extremely toxic to insects, fish and amphibians. Some products within the organophosphate and carbamate groups of synthetic pesticides are extremely toxic to basically all forms of life, including human beings. Such products should never be used by the general consumer.

"Contains no chemicals..."

Natural insecticides are popping up all over the market and are often accompanied by extremely risky claims. Labeling such products as 'safe', 'contains no chemicals' and 'harmless to children and pets' are not only highly unethical but also encourages the public to seriously misuse such products. As mentioned earlier, all pesticides are chemicals, even the natural ones and if the natural ones were safe, how would they kill the pests?

In South Africa no pesticides may be branded as environmentally friendly, not even the naturals. Fatty acids and plant oils such as canola and garlic oils are toxic to the environment because they kill invertebrates and aquatic organisms. If we remove the goggas from the cycles of life the entire biological network will fall apart. The advantage of natural pesticides lie in their low toxicity to warm blooded creatures and fairly rapid decomposition; this latter characteristic may be construed to be a disadvantage as there is no or little residual action on their part. If you don't contact the gogga directly with the natural poison, then the application is in vain.

Comparing the application rates of natural insecticides with that of synthetic insecticides paints a somewhat ridiculous picture in certain cases. As much as ten times more natural insecticide is required per litre of spray mixture compared to the dosage required for a synthetic pesticide. This is naturally more expensive and may be somewhat less attractive to the consumer. I see it as a great disadvantage for the environment and for garden biodiversity to have to apply such a load of even a natural chemical. In most cases the application of natural pesticides is required more frequently than with synthetic pesticides. In many cases the lifespan of natural insecticides has not been assessed properly, so we don't even know how long they remain active in the environment and what their effects may be, yet producers claim rapid breakdown of the products. I cannot imagine that a spider would be happily crawling around on a plant that is covered in a layer of plant oil that is supposedly 'natural'.

Pesticides and the law

All pesticides in South Africa are governed by the Fertilizers, Farm Feeds, Agricultural Remedies and Stock Remedies Act, 1947 (Act No. 36 of 1947). All products that claim to control, kill or repel any vertebrate or invertebrate pest have to be registered with the Registrar of Act No. 36 of 1947 whether such products are natural or synthetic of origin. The Act is highly prescriptive in terms of the registration requirements, claims that are made on the labels of such products and a host of other things. This is to ensure that products are effective, that they do not pose a significant risk to human beings and the environment, and do what they are supposed to do.

Pesticide manufacturers are bound by law to print warnings and precautions on their labels but of course we can expect that the in many cases the public do not read and follow the advice presented on the labels. In the Poison Working Group we deal with wildlife, domestic animal and human poisoning on a daily basis and sad to say, virtually all incidents are the result of some end user failing to follow safety precautions and application instructions. Someone who fails to follow the instructions supplied with pesticides causes as much harm with a natural pesticide as with a synthetic pesticide. The synthetic pesticides sold in the household and garden markets are generally much less toxic than those products supplied to agricultural industry, yet home owners poison themselves, their pets and their garden wildlife by not adhering to instructions.

The greatest danger as far as I am concerned lies in people's general perceptions that synthetic pesticides are dangerous and natural insecticides are safe. There is no safe pesticide!! People should start having a respect and concern for all life forms and not just for the big and hairy. Take for example the practice of killing spiders with so-called environmentally friendly natural pesticides. Spiders come as close to a natural insecticide as you will ever find and should never be killed, irrespective of whether they are poisonous or not. Some synthetic insecticides are extremely toxic and it is justified to be very cautious about such products but from a responsible and environmental point of view, natural insecticides should be used with as great a respect and caution as the synthetics. Or do we not regard the insects that keep our gardens alive as less important than the birds?

By all means people have a right to choose a product that they believe will do the job and be less harmful to the environment, but base your selection of pesticide on the holistic facts of wildlife and human life and not on fictitious marketing claims. Don't believe that synthetic pesticides are all bad news. These products have all been tested rigorously and approved by the Department of Agriculture and if used according to the label instructions pose little risk to life. There are organophosphates such as mercaptothion that are soft on warm blooded creatures but there are natural insecticides that will wipe out fish and frogs faster than mercaptothion can hope to achieve. Don't believe that natural insecticides are the answers to all our problems. Rather use a legally approved synthetic pesticide than some so-called organic pesticide that has never been tested nor approved by Agriculture. This spells danger to some form of life in your garden.

Should you prefer a natural insecticide choose one that is registered with the Department of Agriculture and follow the instructions on the label as rigorously as you would follow the instructions on a container of oxydemeton-methyl. It is your responsibility to use all pesticides only as instructed to get the desired effect, to minimize impacts on the environment and to prevent poisoning yourself. I have never come across a bad pesticide but I have come across thousands of bad pesticide users.

Some pesticide producers are very concerned about the misuse of their products and offer training to retailers on product safety and responsible use. Sadly, this training stops there as members of the public are hardly ever trained in responsible use. The Poison Working Group and certain pesticide companies offer telephonic advice to the public as well as training. I manage an information service and it is heartening to see how many people care and call for advice. Those are the ones who should be using pesticides. The rest? Well, I have my doubts even if they use an organic insecticide! Call me on my Nashua-PWG Emergency Helpline 082 446 8946 for any advice you may seek on responsible pest management and don't be surprised if I sometimes refuse to recommend a pesticide for a gogga that is not really a pest!

More information:
Article by Prof Gerhard H Verdoorn, Director: BirdLife South Africa

What is vermiculture?

Vermiculture is the process of using worms to decompose organic food waste, turning the waste into a nutrient-rich material capable of supplying necessary nutrients to help sustain plant growth. This method is simple, effective, convenient, and noiseless. It saves water, energy, landfills, and helps rebuild the soil. The worms ability to convert organic waste into nutrient-rich material reduces the need for synthetic fertilizers.

We violate natures ability to complete the life cycle process when we send food down the garbage disposal, or bury it in a landfill. We deplete the soil and deprive nature from rehabilitating itself when we bypass this natural life cycle recycling process.

Is Vermiculture Composting recycling?
Yes. Vermicomposting is nature's way of recycling.

How does Vermiculture composting benefit the soil?
Vermicompost improves soil structure, texture, and aeration as well as increasing its water-holding capacity. Your plants will grow stronger and have deeper root systems for better drought tolerance and disease resistance.

Worms are necessary to help produce top soil. Worms help the environment by decomposing organic material (food and yard waste) turning it into a natural rich organic soil amendment. The end result is called vermicompost, wormpoop,or worm castings. Vermicompost provides a tremendous source of nutrients for plants that dramatically improves the texture and fertility of soil. This replaces valuable nutrients taken out of the soil when fruit and vegetables are harvested.

Vermicomposting adds beneficial organisms to the soil. These microorganisms and soil fauna help break down organic materials and convert nutrients into a more available food form for plants.

Like composting, vermiculture composting is natures way of completing the recycling loop. Being born, living, dying, and being reborn again. Adding compost to soil aids in erosion control, promotes soil fertility, and stimulates healthy root development in plants.

What do you feed worms?

• Food scraps from the kitchen like fruit and vegetable trimmings, lettuce leaves, carrot tops, ground egg shells, orange peelings, banana peelings.
• Yard trimmings, grass clippings, leaves, and mulch are great for vermiculture.
• Anything but meat and dairy products.

Where do you keep worms?
Red Worms or (Eisenia fetida) are the best type of worm for eating food waste. These worms are surface worms and stay in the top 18 inches of the soil. It is usually best to keep them in a closed container so you can keep the process going. Every three months the worms should be harvested separated from the castings.

Worms are easy to care for but they require food, moisture, oxygen, and a dark place to live.

Starting A Herb Garden :: How to start a herb garden indoors

Learn how to plan an herb garden and start seeds indoors before the growing season begins. You will have strong seedlings ready to transplant right after the last frost.

Even while the cold winters are still keeping eager gardeners indoors, there is plenty of work to be done. Winter is the best time to plan and start an herb garden. By planning the garden and starting seeds indoors weeks before the last frost, gardeners can, in effect, stretch the growing season, while ensuring the greatest possible yield from their plants.

As with any garden project, the first step is deciding what plants to include in your new garden. A logical starting point is the location of the plot. Will this bed receive adequate light? Most herbs require full sun to thrive, but a few can tolerate some shade. Check the area at different times throughout the day to determine whether it receives continuous or only partial sun. Keep in mind that light patterns may change with the seasons. An area that receives unobstructed sunlight in the winter and early spring may be in shade during the summer when trees have their leaves.

Next, determine which herbs you would like to grow. Decide if you are interested in growing herbs for culinary, medicinal, or aesthetic uses, or a combination. Refer to a good gardening book for descriptions of each herb, and start a chart showing how tall and wide each plant grows, how much space it requires between plants, and any other specific information about their characteristics. This is very important, since some plants have specific growing requirements. For instance, mint and violets are highly invasive, so these herbs might be better suited to containers rather than the garden itself.

Once armed with this information, you’re ready to design your garden. First, outline the dimensions of the bed on graph paper. Then indicate where you want each plant to go using circles with the plant’s name written inside. It may take more than one attempt if this is your first design effort, so try to enjoy the creative process.

If you have the luxury of space, you might try a formal design, with a birdbath or other focal point in the center, and gravel paths or stone walkways dividing the growing area surrounding it. Otherwise, simply arrange the plants according to height, so that the tallest ones will not cast shadows on the shorter ones. Be sure to consider how you will get to the farther plants, allowing enough room for you to pass among the herbs to tend and harvest them. Also, remember to space plants the proper distance apart; some will not grow well when crowded.

When you are happy with your new garden design, count the number of each plant that appears in it, and prepare a master list. Then purchase the supplies needed to start your plants from seed indoors. This will include seeds; starter trays, which have multiple compartments for starting many seeds in a small amount of space; enough peat pots for the number of plants you intend to grow; plastic liner trays to hold the peat pots; and a good soil mix. This is much lighter and less dense than regular potting soil, making it easier for the tender new roots to grow. If you are not sure how much soil mix to buy, ask an associate at your garden center. He or she can advise you on how much is needed to fill the starter trays and the number and size peat pots you are purchasing.

Some beginners like to start more plants than they need to fill their garden, and this is a good idea. If some plants don’t survive, the surplus will save you from having bare spots in the garden. If all your plants make it, you can always give the extras to family, friends, and neighbours, who will be glad for your talent and generosity.

Seed manufacturers recommend starting your seeds eight to twelve weeks before the date of your last frost. Check your seed packets for specific recommendations. When you are ready to begin, fill your starter trays with the soil mix. (An alternative to purchasing starter trays is to use egg cartons. Be sure to punch several small holes in each compartment for drainage.) Add a seed to each compartment, planting them to the depth specified on the seed packets. Mist to wet the soil. Seeds require warmth in order to germinate, so arrange your trays in a warm, well-ventilated room. Keep the soil moist. Germination time varies from one plant to another, so your seeds will not all sprout at precisely the same time.

While you’re waiting, prepare to meet the lighting requirements of your plants. Although very elaborate and expensive lighting systems are available for indoor gardening, many growers have found that simple fluorescent shop lights cost much, much less and are equally effective. The light must be suspended about 30 centimeters from the top of the plants, so you must be able to raise the lights as the plants grow. As soon as your seeds begin to sprout, move the trays to their new home beneath the lights.

When your plants have sprouted their first set of true leaves, they should be transplanted into the peat pots. Place the pots in the plastic trays, then add water to the tray. It will take awhile, but eventually the water will be soaked up along the sides of the pots and throughout the soil mix. This is called bottom watering and is much better than top watering, since it will not cause the starter mix and seeds to run out of the pots. Bottom watering also encourages the new roots to reach downward.

Your plants must be hardened off before they can be planted in the garden. This means they are become acclimated to the temperature, wind and light differences between your house and the outdoors. After the last-frost date, take your seedlings outdoors for a few hours each day, leaving them in a spot where they will be sheltered from the sun and wind. After a few days, slowly expose them to the sun and wind, a little more each day, over the course of a week or two. This will allow them to make the adjustment without going into shock. Then, using your design sketch, transplant your seedlings into their permanent home in the garden.

Starting an herb garden indoors is an easy and creative way to stretch the growing season. With a little forethought and planning, growers can have herb seedlings ready to plant and the garden bed ready to receive them first thing next spring.

Starting A Herb Garden

Having access to a small herb garden can be as simple as having a nice large squatty pot just outside your kitchen door containing a few of your favorite herbs containing sweet basil, purple leaf basil, chives and flat leaf parsley.

Your food preference tastes should dictate what you would like to grow. Two favorites that almost everyone would agree upon are parsley and chives. Their mild flavors are very versatile and can be used in any variety of cuisine.

Perhaps you want your mini garden within arms reach of your cooking area. All you have to do is design a window box or group of planters for your kitchen. When creating this mini herb garden, decide where your box will be located.

The amount of sun that you get in the chosen window will dictate which herbs to select. Northern exposures are generally sunny and hot. Good choices are are thyme, coriander, French lavender, bay laurel, basil, lemon verbena, dill, parsley, chives, sage and rosemary. A nice combination of both upright and trailing herbs is attractive, so consider adding creeping thymes or oregano or to you mini garden for a little eye appeal.

Souther exposures will provide more shade and are not as warm. Shade loving plants that will work nice here include parsley, spearmint, peppermint, lemon balm, chives, borage, and Cuban oregano.

Fill your container(s) half full of potting soil mix with equal parts of potting soil, peat moss and vermiculite. Move and place plants until you are pleased with how the design looks. Remember to keep in mind the mature sizes of the plants and what their growth habits are. Do not place a
plant that will mature at 50 centimeters in front of a plant that will mature no taller than 5 centimeters. Don't fear mixing plants together - it will not hurt anything.

Once you have settled on the placement of the plants, add potting soil to about 2 centimeters below the rim of the container. Tamp the soil down firmly and liberally water. Pinch back any large growth to promote thick growth.

Patio Herbs

When planning an herb garden outside, you can start modestly with a few pots on the patio or located on a bakers rack. Some herbs like sage, thyme and mint are available in different colors, so that you can make an attractive bed in various shades.

Construct the bed as close as possible to the house, so you do not neglect to gather the herbs for cooking during wet weather. Whenever possible, grow each type of herb in a separate pocket. You can actually divide the bed into distinct pockets with dwarf hedges of lavender or you can use concrete or stone pavers or stones to add a landscaped design. This way, herbs may easily be reached by footpaths and easily replaced without disturbing other plants that are nearby. Keeping plants harvested insures thick and hearty growth.

Since most herbs grow well in full sun to part shade, choose a spot for your garden that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Make sure there is good drainage and easy accessibility. When planning your garden, take into consideration the height and sizes of herbs.

Growing Herbs Organically

People choose to grow herbs because of limited gardening space and the need for fresh herbs But before rushing out to the nearest garden center, consider several factors.

• Are culinary herbs the only consideration?
• Would herbs that traditionally are used to heal be included?
• Do native herbs appeal or have a place in the landscape?
• Has the mature size of the herb been investigated?
• Is a plot available, or will the plants always live in pots?
• Are the plants to be propagated for sale, or are they only for home use?

Visit garden centers and friends who have mature herb plants, study herb magazines, and read herb books. With the exception of native herbs, the soil where the herbs are to flourish should be soft, dark and rich. Some culinary herbs need more moisture and less heat than others. Most native herbs need a dry soil and welcome the sun. If planning formal herb gardens, prepare the bed at least a month before planting. Work the soil in the beds to a third of a meter deep or more, turning the soil. Then remove the soil, divide it in half and mix compost with the remainder. Add a small amount of manure to the soil and compost material. Mix well before filling the bed.

If the plot chosen has never been broken and is hard and dry, loosen the particles and allow water to penetrate the hardpan, water it liberally, let it set for 2 or 3 weeks, watering occasionally. The soil will be easier to dig. After the soil has been removed, layer the bottom of the bed with a layer of well-rotted manure. Various kinds of nutrients can be added to the mixture. Use small amounts of soil sulphur to break up heavy soil, kelp or fish meal adds nitrogen and phosphoric acid and potash, bloodmeal is a slow nitrogen release, bonemeal for root growth has 10% phosphoric acid for sturdy root development, soft rock phosphate promotes strong roots and vigorous top growth, and cottonseed meal adds nitrogen, phosphate and potassium.

Choose an irrigation system. Install it before planting seedlings or seeds. Annuals will need regular moisture, but perennials will establish deep roots after the first year. Wind dries the soil quickly, and seeds must be sprinkled several times a day, or the seeds will not germinate. Young plants are very tender, so seeds should be sown in the early spring. Birds love fresh greens! To avoid stress on seedlings, plant in an evening or on an overcast windless day. Using a row cover will also help the young plants survive.

For filling pots, buy the best soil mix available. Potted herbs will need frequent watering and fertilizing. A layer of mulch over the soil will help retain moisture. Follow the garden center's advice when transplanting native plants. A drip system can be established to meet the plants requirements. Set several filled pots near each other, making sure the various herbs are compatible.

Plants such as basil and parsley, whose leaves are constantly being removed, need a foiliar feed with a good quality fish emulsion every two or three weeks. Also herbs such as basil and the mints will need the flower tips pinched off, so the plant will continue growing new leaves and not go to seed.
Since the leaves and/or flowers are to be eaten, use caution about controlling pests. Herbs have strong scents and are used as companion plants for vegetables, but when they live alone, the pest could destroy the herbs. Some herbs are subject to root rot.

Mediterranean culinary herbs will need afternoon shade, and attention to moisture needs, especially until well established. Dill and fennel are among those herbs that will reseed year after year. Let some plants flower to attract bees and other beneficial insects. Parsley, dill, fennel, and lemon balm attract bees. Experiment with herbs those herbs that would not grow this year might flourish next year. Weather conditions cannot be predicted from year to year. And don't forget have fun!

ANISE HYSSOP is known as the honey plant because bees are attracted to the blossoms. The perennial can be started from seed or division. It needs a sunny well drained spot, fertile soil, and regular moisture to thrive. Leaves can be used either fresh or dried for tea or garnish.

BASIL is a fast-growing annual that can reach nearly a meter high. Prune to keep the plant bushy. Green ruffled leaves, red or purple leaves, and various flavors and scents are available. The leaves can be dried, or frozen for future use. Plant from seed when the ground is warm. It needs well-drained rich soil and compost.

If you have space, plant a BAY tree. At maturity it is 4 meters high, but can be can be potted and pruned. Since it prefers moist heat, give it dappled shade. Leaves can be dried and stored for soups and stews or used as insect repellent.

BEE BALM is known by many names: bergamot, monarda, and Oswego tea are a few. Hummingbirds and butterflies are attracted to the flowers. This perennial likes a moist soil and summer shade. Use the orange-flovored leaves fresh or dried in tea and salads.

BORAGE can grow to a meter high and wide. Since the leaves have bristly white hairs, plant it in a corner. Bees love the blue scentless flower. Borage repels insects and diseases in neighboring vegetation Use the young leaves and the flowers in salads..

BURNET leaves have a cucumber-like taste when picked while young. Cut the flower stems to ensure new leaves. This hardy perennial needs routine water and fertile soil with dappled shade. The lacy clumps reach a foot high and two feet wide, and can be used as ground cover or for borders. Use in salads, iced or hot tea, herb butters, and flavored vinegars.

CHAMOMILE comes in two forms. One, German (Matricaria recutita) is a tall annual, a meter high. Chamaemelum nobile, or Roman, is a short perennial and has a stronger fragrance. Currently it is used as a tea for nerves. The apple scent benefits cucumbers and onions. Both plants like well prepared soil, evenly moist, and shade in the heat.

CHICORY's bright blue flowers can be added to salads, but close after five hours from opening. The perennial reseeds easily, loves rich soil, but will grow in poor soil with less water. Use young tender leaves raw in salads, in cooked vegetables, and stir-fry dishes.

CHIVES are perennials in the desert. The cousins onions, garlic and shallots, contain Allicin, a germ killer. Garlic has the most, then onion, and small amounts in the rest. All species help deter aphids, so they can be planted anywhere in the landscape, except among legumes and sage. Use the flowers, fresh or dried, in salads and vinegars. Chop the leaves into egg dishes.

CILANTRO, the plant, or Coriander, the seeds are used widely The leaves have a strong sharp flavour, and most pests avoid the plants. The flowers attract pollinators. Keep planting seeds every two or three weeks. The plants grow fast in the heat. Use fresh leaves, not dried. Cilantro has long roots and is compatible with caraway. Too much Nitrogen robs the leaves of flavor.

The roots of COMFREY grow deeply, but needs plenty of water and shade. Plants may die back with frost, but roots remain. Bushy to a meter high, with hairy mineral rich leaves which decompose quickly, the plant is not to be eaten. The protein Allantoin, promotes healing to bind cuts. Comfrey can be quite invasive in a small garden and may be best grown in pots.

DILL has feathery foliage reaching a meter high and has a pungent scent when bruised. Sow seeds in full sun at 2 week intervals. It produces seeds the second year of growth. Dill enhances the growth of cabbage, onion and lettuce, but keep away from carrots and tomatoes. Bees will visit the yellow flowers.

Fennel, a relative of dill, grows taller but has a pleasant licorice scent. When fennel flowers, expect many bees. Fennel roots are toxic to many plants. Sow seeds in a corner where weeds might grow. The plants have deterred rabbits in gardens. Keep away from beans and peppers. Fennel tea is used for colicky babies, to soothe the stomach ache, and to regulate appetite.

GARLIC bulbs are grown as an annual, in well-drained soil with full sun and regular moisture. Buy a bulb, separate the cloves, plant base down with roses and other plants that attract aphids. After flowering, leaves turn yellow. Dig with care. Let the bulbs dry. To store, braid the leaves and hang. Elephant garlic has a milder flavor.

LEMON BALM belongs to the mint family, thus it spreads by underground and surface stems. Light shade and moist soil are its two requirements. Beekeepers often have the plant growing near hives. As with mint, cut back the leggy plants for young leaves to grow.

MARJORAM is a mint relative. The leaves and flavor resembles oregano, but has a different aroma. This Mediterranean native likes full sun, well-drained soil and average water requirements. Cut back the twiggy parts to overwinter.

MINTS thrive in part shade and with regular moisture. The roots can be invasive, causing many people to plant mints in pots.. Go lightly with organic matter and manure as these encourage rust. The roots grow rapidly and the plant will get leggy. Sprinkle fresh mint leaves to drive away mice. Mints come in many scents and flavors. Use in iced and hot tea, jelly, vinegars, salads and deserts.

NASTURTIUM flowers brighten winter days, but plants may die in summer's heat. Use both leaves and flowers as the peppery taste adds to salads. The large seeds grow easily. Seedlings do not transplant well. These annuals can vine or grow bushy. Colors range from white to deep orange and double reds. The root system deters some nematodes.

OREGANO can be a low-growing mat or tall bushy plants. Roots spread by underground stems. Dry or freeze the spicy leaf. Oregano prefers a slightly alkaline soil and heat. Plants can be started from seed, from cuttings or from division. The flavour of beans is enhanced when planted near oregano.

PARSLEY clumps make an attractive edging. Its leaves are used in a wide variety of foods, and can be dried or frozen. Good soil with afternoon shade and regular moisture are required.

ROSEMARY has a woody stem which will easily make new plants. The fragrant stiff needle-leaves pierce soft skins of snails and slugs. Use the low-growing variety as a hedge. Soft blue flowers attract bees. Plants can take reflected heat. The upright rosemary is for culinary use.

SAGE encourages the growth of carrots, cabbage, strawberries, and tomatoes, but not onions. Many varieties are available. The plants like full sun and do not require fertile soil. Water only until mature. Cut back in spring to prevent flowering. Use dried leaves in soups and as an insect repellent in flours and meals.

THYME is of the mint family, but needs well-drained soil, moderate watering, and afternoon shade. All varieties benefit eggplant, potatoes and tomatoes. None grow higher than 45 centimeters high. Cabbage worms and whiteflies are repelled. The fragrant blossoms attract bees.

Many gardeners believe, the leaves of YARROW increase the essential oils of other herbs, Its flowers attract predatory wasps and lady beetles. The plants thrive in full sun and poor soil, but will produce more flowers in better soil and moderate moisture. Choose from many varieties.

How to Make Your Own Compost Bin

Composting is a wonderful thing. It allows you to use organic / vegetable waste from your kitchen and garden, thereby reducing the amount of stuff going to landfills, and producing something useful that will help your garden grow healthier. Making your own compost requires a little bit of effort. Although compost can be made by piling or heaping organic material, you'll get better and faster results if you use a compost bin.

A compost bin can be made of a variety of materials. Most of the compost bins available for purchase are made of heavy plastic. But you can make your own bin out of materials you likely have lying around the house, or can be purchased cheaply. Try a few of these ideas:

Heavy Mesh Wire

I found this method too wobbly for my taste, but it's a quick, easy way to contain your compost heap. It's also highly mobile - you can lift the wire easily and move it to another location when you're ready to start a new pile. Simply make a circle of the wire, and attach the openings with small wire. You'll want to be able to open and close the container fairly frequently to turn your compost. To give the container more shape, drive stakes into the ground at four corners, and wrap the wire around the stakes. Secure wire to stakes with a short piece of wire, or simply squeeze the wire around the stakes.

Wooden Pallet Compost Bins

Wooden palettes can be found at many warehouses for free. We had several left over from deliveries of patio bricks and lumber. (Watch your neighbours to see who's putting in a patio or re-doing their roof. They might be willing to give you the palettes their materials arrived on.) These we attached at the edges to make three sides. The front panel was attached at one side with hinges, so we could open and close the door, and latched at the other side with a common hook and latch. For the top, we bought a piece of thick plywood and cut it to size. We attached it at the back with hinges, so it could be easily lifted to add materials.

Old Fencing

Replacing your old wood fence? Don't throw the slats away. If possible, take down the fence in sections. These sections can be used to make a great compost bin, ready-made with small space between the slats so your compost can breathe.

Dresser Drawers

No, really. Take an old dresser / bureau. Knock out the bottom of each drawer. With a few 2x4's you can attach the drawers together to make a small compost bin. Detach the top of the dresser and attach to the top of your bin with hinges at the back for easy accessibility.

How to make a solar powered garden fountain

Things to be considered when selecting pumps and solar cells for solar-powered garden fountains.

Water-based features have become very popular landscape fixtures, and an increasing number of people’s yards feature a pond or a fountain. Obviously, if your landscaping requires flowing water, some kind of a pump is going to be needed, and that pump will require a power source. It’s possible to simply run an electric line from the house or garage, but you may not want to do that – either because of distance from the house, or because of environmental concerns and the wish to use a non-polluting power source. Solar energy is one possible power source for a fountain.

It is possible to purchase kits for solar powered fountains, ready to install and containing all the components you need. You may not find a kit that you like, though, and while it makes things easy it isn't the only way to obtain a solar fountain. You can select the pieces you need separately. If you decide to buy the components separately and assemble your own, you’ll need to consider several things.

Your first choice will be the fountain itself. You may want to have a freestanding fountain, or perhaps it’s part of a pond or some other large display. In either case, there are a wide variety of choices available at home improvement superstores, some local hardware stores, and on-line. Prices range from under R 200 to over R 3 000, depending on the size and type of fountain desired. If you’re really ambitious, you could design and build your own fountain, purchasing all the individual components and routing the interior plumbing yourself. If you purchase a fountain from the store, it will often come with an appropriate pump. If you design your own, your second choice will be the pump.

The science and engineering surrounding pumps are complex, but you don’t need to be a technical expert to select a pump for your fountain. You do need to take careful note of your requirements. The first requirement, of course, is that the pump must be totally submersible. You will also want a pump with a filter, to avoid damaging it with dirt and debris that will get into the water. The next two fundamental requirements are the amount of water you want to lift and how far you want to lift it. If you’ve purchased a fountain and need to select a pump, then it should tell you what the flow rate (the amount of water) is, and you can simply take out a ruler to measure the height that you’re lifting the water. If you’re designing your own fountain, you can certainly figure out easily enough what the height is, but the flow rate might be a little trickier. Too low of a flow rate, and your fountain becomes a stagnant pool and breeding ground for mosquitoes; too high of a rate, and you have a rushing torrent instead of a relaxing ornament. Rather than trying to calculate this, you may want to look at similarly sized fountains at your local store and see what their flow rates are. Some typical fountains specify a flow rate of 90-140 liters per hour, though there are some that are designed for up to 300 liters per hour. Once you know the flow rate and the amount of lift, you can check out pumps at your local hardware store or on-line and see which ones would suit your needs. You may, in some cases, be able to buy a solar-powered pump, in which case you’re now ready to start putting things together – you have all of your components. Otherwise, your next step will be to select the solar panels to power the system.

Solar power, like pumps, is a highly technical and complex field, but you don’t need to be intimidated by this either. It isn’t necessary to study the theory of photovoltaics in order to buy a solar panel for your fountain, though you do need to pay careful attention to the electrical requirements of your pump. First of all, you need to know what the power requirement (typically expressed in watts) is. This will vary depending on the pump selected. A pump that lifts water a greater distance, with a greater flow rate, will naturally require more power to do so. Power alone isn’t enough, though. You will want to make sure all of the electrical specifications are what the pump needs. This should be clearly noted in the documentation that comes with the pump. If it’s designed to be plugged into normal household current, then it will require 60 Hz AC (alternating current). The amount of current drawn could vary, though if it’s designed for normal household power then it would have to be low enough not to blow fuses or trip circuit breakers. If the pump is designed to run off of a battery, then its requirements will be different. In any case, you’ll want to read over the details for the solar cells carefully to make sure that you get any necessary adapters or inverters to plug into your electrical system.

Once you have the appropriate pieces for your system, the final step is to assemble them. While the choice of location for your fountain is purely a matter of personal preference, the exact location and orientation of your solar panels should be based on where they will get the best sun exposure. A solar panel that’s always in the shade can’t produce as much power as one that’s in the open, exposed to full sun, so you’ll want to place your panels where they’ll get as much sunshine as possible.

Once you’ve got everything purchased and assembled, and your solar panels are in place, turn the system on and enjoy your fountain!

Water-Saving Garden Irrigation

Watering your garden effectively is all about knowing its needs. Over-watering is as harmful for plants as providing too little water.

Although on average plants need 2.5 centimeters of water per week, there is a great deal of variation depending on the specific plant, climate, soil, and a host of other factors.

Luckily there are a variety of techniques to reduce your water usage and still enjoy a thriving garden.

The Basics

To keep all plants at their optimum soil moisture, those needing similar amounts of water should be placed together. Add manure or compost to the soil - richer soils trap water more effectively.

Always water your plants in the early morning when the cooler temperatures and lack of direct sunlight decreases evaporation. Midday sun evaporates leftover water collected on the foliage preventing mold or other diseases.

"Remember, 40% of water used during the summer is used outdoors. By being aware of weather conditions and making a few simple changes, you can conserve previous resources and water your garden effectively."

Watering Techniques

Not everyone will be able to commit to the same level of money or responsibility to improve water efficiency, so choose the technique that is right for you. Hoses and sprinklers, two of the most common ways to water a garden are also two of the least efficient. If you choose to employ a hose, use a spray attachment to help prevent soil erosion and overwatering. If you're using sprinklers, make sure each one is connected to a timer.

To maximize water saving, try one of the following techniques:

Watering Can

• Although old-fashioned, watering each plant by hand allows you to effectively target and evaluate individual patches of soil and the spout ensures the water goes straight to the roots.

Soaker Hose

• Soaker hoses are a great and inexpensive alternative for gardens. Made from recycled tyres, they “sweat” water through millions of pores along the entire length of the hose. They allow almost no evaporation, can be hooked up to a timer, are easily buried under mulch, and require relatively little upkeep.

Drip Irrigation

• With over 90% efficiency, drip irrigation is the most effective of all watering systems. Drip irrigation consists of tubes with a release point next to each plant. If a plant no longer needs water for the rest of the season, a plug can be inserted to stop water flow to that area. This system can be set on a timer, uses a battery to regulate flow, and a backflow prevention device blocks the water from contaminating potable water.

Collecting Rainwater

Gutters make harvesting the rainfall simple. The larger your roof catchment area (the surface area of your roof), the more water you will collect. For every 2.5 centimeters of rain on a 100 square meter rain catchment, you will collect 2 500 litres of rainwater!

Simply attach a diverter onto your downspout to feeding into a collection container. Rain chains are also an easy way to capture and direct rainfall into a barrel or underground holding tank. Copper rain chains offer the benefits of being entirely recyclable and adding aesthetic value to your home.

Precautionary safety measures require that the container be covered at all times, and that water is harvested within 10 days of collection or mosquitoes will begin to breed. A rain barrel can easily feed your watering can, soaker hose, or drip irrigation as long as the barrel is higher than the ground to which it will travel.

Container Gardens

For those who do not have the time or land for a full garden, container gardens, which can be made out of almost any material, are a wonderful option. By far the most water efficient is the self-watering container garden.

With self-watering containers, a small recessed trough sits at the bottom and as the soil dries, water is drawn upwards, feeding the plant. The gardener need only ensure that the trough is filled and the plant will always have readily available water. Herbs, vegetables, fruits, and flowers all thrive in container gardens.

The Layout of Your Vegetable Garden

Traditionally, vegetable gardens have taken the form of those all too familiar plots of rows that are found in large, open fields or nestled away in the backyard. While this layout was once considered quite popular; times have changed. Large plots often require more attention, and some people don’t have the option of growing vegetables in large plots anymore.

Many of us actually require something taking up less space and less time. There is another alternative, which can be just as effective with an additional bonus - a layout designed for small areas. The layout, which seems to fit the busy person’s lifestyle as well as one that can accommodate those who have limited room for a traditional garden, comes in the form of small beds. These not only save on space but can be helpful to the plants themselves by allowing them to grow closer together, which essentially provides the soil with shade and results in more moisture for the crops and less weed growth for the gardener to deal with.

Beds should not be more than 1 to 1.2 metres in width since your main objective is easy maintenance. Smaller beds allow you to maneuver around the area while watering, weeding, or harvesting. Dividing beds with pathways also will lesson the chances of harming crops by preventing yourself and others from trampling the plants and surrounding soil. Placing plastic or some type of garden sheeting over the paths will also keep weeds out, and adding some type of mulching material or gravels will improve the appearance. You should mulch around crops as well to help them retain moisture.

In arranging the garden bed, plant the early crops in such a way that will allow for other crops to follow once these varieties have faded out. For instance, rather than wait for these earlier crops to die out completely, go ahead and plant the later crops in between beforehand. This technique will help keep the garden alive with continual growth while adding to its appearance.

Keep the taller plants, such as corn, towards the back of your beds or consider placing them in the center with other crops working downward in size. Instead of flat beds, you might consider raised ones that are edged with wood or stone.

You do not necessarily have to limit yourself to beds for a unique vegetable garden. Browse through books, catalogs, or public gardens for new and interesting ideas. Family, friends, and neighbors are also a great source of ideas, and many of them are more than willing to share their successful secrets with others.

There is also the option of growing your vegetable garden strictly in containers. These can be arranged in a number of ways including hanging them from baskets on your porch. Containers can also be moved around with others added as needed. In fact, you could incorporate some containers into your beds for additional interest.

If you happen to live in an area close to wildlife, you might consider surrounding your garden by a fence to keep pesky animals out. A fence also can serve as a trellis for beans, peas, tomatoes, and vine crops that often require support. For just an extra touch of beauty, incorporate flowers and herbs around the outer edges of the garden as well.

What Does it Mean to be an Organic Gardener?

• An organic gardener will use natural mineral and organic fertilizers to build up the soil. Instead of chemicals, you will learn how to use natural fertilizers like composted manure (don’t worry, it’s not stinky!), bone meal, fish meal, gypsum, eggshells, and of course, the best of all (and free!), your own compost.
• There are a lot of natural and even home-made alternatives to chemical pesticides and herbicides. Chemicals are often broad-spectrum, meaning they will kill good and bad insects. As an organic gardener, you will know how to treat specific pests and diseases without harming your plants, butterflies and birds.
• You will be thinking long-term. Instead of dumping flowers into a flower garden every spring, you will be aware of soil conditioning, what plants work best together, and how you will help regenerate your garden next year. You will be thinking of your garden as a whole, not as individual beds.
• For your lawn, weaning the grass off chemicals and replacing it with natural fertilizers and mulch will take a few seasons. You will know about optimal soil acidity and how to cultivate good fungi in the soil. In the long run you will be caring for it less, because your lawn will be thicker and stronger, due to the healthy soil underneath. This will mean weeds will have a harder time taking root, and brown patches will disappear (because you will know why brown patches exist and how to combat them.)
• Weed control without herbicides means knowing how to prevent them from growing in the first place ands discouraging their growth.
• Organic gardeners have a certain philosophy. Instead of taking from the soil, you will be conscious of giving and restoring it, as part of nature’s life cycle.

Organic Gardener Philosophy - Reap the rewards of going organic

The benefits of organic gardening are clear, perhaps so simple and straightforward that gardeners used to complicated explanations must dial down their expectations and adopt an attitude closer to those of previous generations.

The earth matters. What we do in our own backyards matters. The food that we put in our bodies matters. And it matters especially to the smallest residents of the planet, birds and bees and other critters whose numbers are dwindling; children, whose bodies take in more pesticides relative to body weight than adults. The American National Academy of Sciences estimates that 50 percent of lifetime pesticide exposure occurs during the first five years of life.

Gardeners don't have to contribute to the grim statistics. They can learn to follow the advice of J.I. Rodale, paraphrased by Texas organic leader Malcolm Beck when he writes that "poor soil can only produce poor plants, and poor plants produce poor animals and human bodies."

The opposite is also true. By building up soil content with composting, cover crops and the addition of minerals, plants become less prone to pests and diseases, and the people who eat those plants (or work alongside them) are healthier for it, as are streams, creeks and rivers.

The education of people about gardening expectations, that using native or well-adapted plants reduces the need for water or that reducing lawn space has similar benefits, helps take the desire to be part of a solution to environmental concerns and makes it something tangible and do-able.

Easy to use products and feedback for fledgling gardeners with problems are other keys to organic gardening.

But the real essence of it is an approach that honors and supports something you can't quantify; the delight in raising fruits and vegetables you know are the best for your family, the pride in producing a healthy green lawn without chemicals or undue water use, the satisfaction of turning fallow land into something that draws butterflies, earthworms and other signs of a healthy, vividly functioning environment.

Companion Planting

Organic gardening uses cultivating practices that benefit the plants, thus avoiding artificial commercial remedies. One of those practices is companion planting.

Organic gardening uses cultivating practices that benefit the plants, thus avoiding artificial commercial remedies. One of those practices is companion planting. Native Americans were familiar with this practice. Over time, they discovered that corn, beans and squash, planted together, produced better crops for all three. The bean vines climb up the corn stalks, which give them elevated support along with an extra bit of shade. As we discovered later, beans add nitrogen to the soil. The squash vines ambled around the base of the plantings, providing ground level shade with their large leaves, conserving moisture. These big leaves on thick vines also discourage ravaging animals like raccoons. This winning combination was named the Three Sisters. If you can find some fast growing corn seed, it's not too late to start your own Three Sisters garden. Check the label on the seed packet. In 65 days, we'll be in the middle of September, in good time for a harvest.

Other boon companions in your veg bed include carrots and tomatoes. Parsley's aroma helps to repel carrot flies. Radishes and pole beans do well together. The radishes you plant now will be HOT, but some people like them that way. You can wait until late in the summer when temperatures start going back down to plant for a fall harvest. At that time, you can sow radish with spinach and more beans. If sown with lettuce, radishes will be more tender.

Garlic cloves planted in a circle around roses reduce blackspot, mildew, aphids and Japanese beetles. It can winter over if it is mulched well in the fall. Another benefit of garlic is that it can reduce red spider in tomatoes. It is not a good neighbor for peas or beans.

Planting a diverse variety in any garden will reduce problems, sometimes simply by separating like plants (as opposed to the common "monoculture" method). Pests and diseases will spread much more slowly, if at all, when the next meal is not placed so conveniently nearby. There are some plants that do not benefit each other, so that needs to be taken into account.

Two excellent books on this subject written in the 1970's by the late Louise Riotte are "Roses Love Garlic" and "Carrots Love Tomatoes". Both have been revised and updated, and I have found them to be very useful as well as fun to read. Companion planting makes a dramatic difference in the health of your plants, reducing stress for plants and people, too.

Organic gardening techniques and philosophy

Biointensive, sustainable and permaculture explained

Choose plants that thrive in your climate.

Organic gardening often is thought of as simply gardening without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers -- but it is so much more than that.

Organic gardeners strive to replenish resources the garden consumes by adding organic matter to give the soil the nutrition it needs.

And they work in harmony with nature by selecting plants best suited for the site. As a welcome bonus, plants that thrive in your existing climate and conditions won't require as much time and attention.

Under the umbrella of organic gardening, you'll find several types of natural and eco-friendly gardening. Each type offers slightly different techniques and philosophies. Here's a look at three of them.

Permaculture gardening is an integrated approach; plants, animals, land, people, buildings and nature work together to support a multidimensional ecosystem. In other words, you're working with, not against, nature.

To be a permaculture gardener, repurpose an area of your lawn to create a food-producing garden that includes fruit trees and vegetables. Or just grow meadow mixes and other flowers that are beneficial to wildlife.

Sustainable gardening contributes to, rather than takes away from, the planet. This type of gardening conserves water, doesn't use chemicals and doesn't add to pollution. And because it is sustainable (which really means it sustains itself), this gardening technique requires less work and input from the gardener, which also makes it more efficient and less time-consuming. As with all of these forms of organic gardening, the foods grown via sustainable gardening -- whether they're vegetables, herbs or fruits are much healthier to eat. So it can have a positive effect on our health as well as the environment.

To be a sustainable gardener, maintain soil health by using increasing amounts of compost. Use only natural fertilizers such as seaweed and kelp, which encourage plants to grow at a natural rate and help prevent pest problems. Choose hardy plants that are well-adjusted to your climate and will feed birds and attract other types of wildlife.

Biointensive gardening, which is rooted in ancient Chinese agricultural practices, combines Eastern and Western techniques to yield a large amount of crops in a small space while requiring little annual maintenance and no use of power tools.

To be a biointensive gardener, grow cover crops -- which include alfalfa, oats, clover and other grains during the time that your garden is not planted with vegetables. Cover crops feed and replenish the soil, which means you will have higher yields. Also, consider planting your crops in closely packed hexagonal (six-sided) patterns. This style of planting maximizes the amount of vegetation in your garden, eliminates weeds (which require extra work to remove) and decreases the amount of water needed.