Sun Patterns :: Planning Your Herb Garden

One of the first things Sue & I stumbled across when we started planning our herb / vegetable / kitchen garden was a really simple thing. We simply forgot to take the sun into account when we designed our patch. Having a good 4 to 5 hours of sun a day is very necessary for good growth.

Don't get me wrong....... we have sun.... and lots of it, but in winter, a fair part of our patch would be in permanent shade. We only really figured this out once we had run through 10 or 12 itterations of our layout and had the herb part of the kitchen garden in place.

It became very apparent that if we followed our original design, the vegetable part of our kitchen garden would be 50% permanently covered by shade in winter.

So a change was needed....... & back to the drawing board we went.

After 3 or 4 more changes and some spikes in the ground, we had decided on the final veggie patch layout........ With a little less overall space, but more available growing space in the winter sun.

So, on the basis that you are probably here to learn about organic gardening and all of it's little idiosyncrasies, remember to take the pattern of the sun into account when you are planning an organic garden.

It's fairly simple to do and all you need is a day or 2 of easy work (A hammer and a couple of pegs also required). Simply pick a day where you are going to be at home for the day and go out into the garden every 2 hours, armed with the said hammer and trusty peg (Tent pegs work really well......)

Locate the point that sun turnes into shade and knock a peg in.......... This, over a period of 8 to 10 hours, will give you a pattern. Keep this information in a small kitchen garden diary (or log book) if you are worndering about planing organnic veggies in the sun...... You can always refer to the book if you have a memory like mine!!!!!!!!

Making Basil Pesto :: A Receipe For Making Basil Pesto

This year we've planted basil specifically for making basil pesto & I though it might be a great idea to share the process and receipe with you. Note that pesto is always made to taste, based on the ingredients at hand. So adjust the ingredients to your taste. Most pesto recipes call for Parmesan cheese, but we often use Romano because it has a stronger flavor. Most basil pesto recipes call for pine nuts but you can easily substitute walnuts.

Fresh Basil Pesto Recipe (Makes 1 cup)

INGREDIENTS

• 2 cups fresh basil leaves, packed (Wash and pat the leaves dry)
  
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan-Reggiano or Romano cheese
  
• 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
  
• 1/3 cup pine nuts or walnuts
  
• 3 medium sized garlic cloves, minced
  
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  
• Special equipment needed: A food processor
  

METHOD

• Combine the basil in with the pine nuts, pulse a few times in a food processor. (If you are using walnuts instead of pine nuts and they are not already chopped, pulse them a few times first, before adding the basil.) Add the garlic, pulse a few times more.
  
• Slowly add the olive oil in a constant stream while the food processor is on. Stop to scrape down the sides of the food processor with a rubber spatula. Add the grated cheese and pulse again until blended. Add a pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.
  

STORAGE

• Fresh pesto doesn't store for as long as the stuff bought in the small jars. It will keep (as is) for about a week in the fridge.
• If you want to store it for a little longer, pop the pesto in an airtight container and cover the top with a little olive oil (so it doesn't brown). Keep it in the fridge.
• Alternatively, if you are like us and have a fair quantity of basil, you might want to freeze the pesto you make. If you do, omit the cheese (it doesn't freeze well). Line an ice cube tray with plastic wrap, and fill each pocket with the pesto. Freeze and then remove from the ice tray and store in a freezer bag. When you want to use, defrost and add in grated Parmesan or Romano.

Serve with pasta, or over baked potatoes, or spread over toasted baguette slices.

ENJOY!!!!!

Harvesting Your Herbs

Reaping your bountiful herb harvest is a very simple process, but a few tips can improve your harvest and preserve the health of your plants.

1. Give young, recent transplants time to adjust to their new home in the garden, and sufficient time to grow before the first harvest.
2. When harvesting herbs for cooking, harvest them the same day you are going to use them to preserve freshness.
3. Never cut off more than one-third of a plant at a time, and give young plants time to re-grow before harvesting from them again.
4. Use sharp scissors and make a clean cut on the stem, taking care not to cut any leaves. Never pull leaves off of a plant.
5. When harvesting culinary herbs for drying, harvest just before the plant produces blooms to ensure the highest oil content in the leaves.
6. When harvesting plants for bloom (i.e. lavender), cut the blooms just before the earliest blooms on the stem start to wither.
7. On annual herbs, always harvest from the growing tips of the stems, like ‘pinching back’ the plant. This will make the plant produce more leaves, reduce flowering, and lengthen the life of the plant.
8. On perennials, always consider the shape of the plant, and make sure that your cutting does not misshape the plant. Think of this harvesting as a ‘mini pruning’.
9. When harvesting chives, always cut spears at the base of the plant. This will encourage new growth.

Growing Herbs for Cooking

Cuisine Herbs
If you cook with herbs then you might have already thought about growing your own herbs for cooking. It's easier than you might think as well. You can learn how to set up a small herb garden, how to cultivate and prepare herbs as well as what herbs to use with certain foods. In no time at all, you can become an herb specialist and your food will be all the better for it!

There are many different types of herbs such as culinary herbs, aromatic herbs, medicinal and much more. The Brooklyn Botanic Garden Handbook on Herbs lists 73 different types of herbs. There are many common and non-common herbs and if you are a beginner culinary herb gardener, there are some that may be easier for you to start with. Parsley, thyme, savory, marjoram, mint, chives and basil are some common herbs used in cooking.

Herbs for Beginners

If you are a beginner herb gardener, you might not know what herbs to plant since there are so many to choose from. It is a good idea to get a variety of flavors and uses in cooking so that you are not stuck with all one kind of herb. You can choose from:

• Strong herbs such as rosemary, sage and winter savory
• Accent herbs such as dill, mint, sweet basil, sweet marjoram and thyme
• Blending herbs such as chives, summer savory and parsley

These are great to start out with and over time you might want to move into other interests and less common herbs. Remember that there are annuals, biennials and perennials to choose from. The climate will also effect the type of herb you choose. Annuals include anise, basil, chervil, coriander, dill and summer savory. Some samples of Biennials are caraway and parsley. Perennials are chives, fennel, lovage, marjoram, mint, tarragon, thyme and winter savory.

Of course this is not a complete list but it gives you an idea. Annuals are herbs that will bloom only for one season and then they die. Biennials live for two seasons but they only bloom on the second season and perennials bloom each season once they have been established so they are very popular.

Preparation and Drying

Once you have grown the herbs and you are ready to actually use them, it requires some preparation. You have to dry the herbs before you use them in cooking. Most herbs reach their peak just before flowering so you can collect them then for drying and storage.

Cut the herbs in the early morning when the dew has just dried. You should cut annuals off at ground level and perennials about a third way down the stem. Now wash the herbs with the leaves on the stem in cold water to remove dirt, dust, bugs, etc. You can drain them on towels or by hanging upside down in the sun to let the water evaporate.

Next you will strip all the leaves off the stalk leaving only about the top six inches. Be sure you also remove any blossoms. You know that the herbs have to be properly dried before storing and certain hers such as mint and basil need to be dried quickly or they mold. One way of natural air drying is to hang them in the dark in paper bags. Be sure to hang upside down because this lets essential oils flow from the stems to the leaves.

The room should be about 20 to 25 degrees and be well ventilated and dust and dirt free. It normally takes about 1 to 2 weeks for the herbs to be completely dry and feel crumbly.

If you need to dry quickly you can use an oven. Place the leaves or seeds on a cookie sheet and cook on low heat (less than 90 degrees C) for about 2 to 4 hours. You can also put them in the microwave for about 3 minutes, mixing them around every 30 seconds so they dry evenly. Once your herbs are properly dried you can store them until use.

Which Herbs for Which Foods

There are so many different types of herbs that it may be hard to know which herbs are good for which foods. There are no set rules for this but some general guidelines are set below.

Basil is good for tomatoes and other vegetables as well as fish, meat, poultry, potatoes, cheese, garlic and summer fruit. Thyme is good on meats as well as soups and stew and vegetable dishes. Nasturtium is a good garnish for salads, entrees and desserts and sage is good on meat and fish dishes. Oregano is best on Italian dishes and dill is good for many things such as chicken, fish, beef, asparagus, beans, beets, carrots, cabbage, corn, cucumbers, mushrooms, onions, tomatoes, breads, eggs and cheese. Mint is also often used for flavor in drinks and sauces. A good rule of thumb is to remember that you don't want the herbs to over power the food, and you don't want the herb to get lost in the flavor of the dish you are using it in. A more pungent or stronger herb marries well with a more robust meat or food and a more subtle herb goes well with a lighter dish.

Herbs to grow indoors

Here are some of the herbs which will grow well indoors. Choose as many of these as you can find room for. They will bring fragrance to your home, exciting taste to your foods, and a little fillip to your imagination.

ANISE
Hung over your bed, anise may not make you as fair and youthful as our ancestors believed, but surely the new interest which it brings to foods will keep your appetite young. Although anise is generally grown for its sweet seed, the fresh leaves are appetizing in fruit salads, soups, stews and herb teas.

Start anise from seed or bring in a young plant from the garden and let it have plenty of sunlight.

BASIL
This herb grows particularly well in the kitchen, for it doesn't mind the heat. Keep the plants trim by using the leaves generously in salads, stews, ground meats, poultry stuffings and fruit cups. It is a necessity in any dish containing tomato, or with fresh tomatoes. If you have enough basil, sprays are beautiful in bouquets.

Start basil from seeds or bring in healthy small plants from the garden. You can put three or four light green, smooth-leaved basil plants in the same container. In the spring I set the basil plants back in the garden. These plants can be counted on to produce seed. This is not always true of those raised the first year from seed, because our growing season is too short for seeds to ripen thoroughly.

BORAGE
Although borage is more attractive in the garden than in the house, a pot containing three or four plants will furnish young cucumber-flavored leaves for salads and cool drinks.

If it blooms, the blue flowers are worth the space given this somewhat coarse, hairy-leafed plant. Borage loses its flavor when dried, so use its young, tender leaves. Start the borage from seed or bring in young plants from the garden.

CHERVIL
This fine-leaved herb resembles parsley in looks but not in taste. It is too lovely to look at and too good to eat to be left out of the kitchen herb garden. Bring in a plant and use the fresh anise-flavored leaves for garnishing and to season sauces, soups and salads. The white blossoms are small and fragile. It will germinate rapidly and may be grown from seed.

CHIVES
A clump of chives may be bought at almost any grocery store. If you have both an outdoor and indoor garden, divide a large plant and bring part of it to the kitchen window. The spikey leaves are excellent wherever a delicate onion taste is desired.

DILL
The Orientals used dill in brewing up charms. We “charm” our guests by using its seeds in pickles, fish sauces and salads, but Europeans use the leaves, too, in cooking. Why not try them?

PARSLEY
This herb, one of the oldest known to man, is as popular today as always. When grown in a sunny window in a glazed or metal pot so that the roots will not dry out, it will thrive for a long time. Use rather small plants, for the taproots of mature plants are long. Parsley does better in a cool temperature. Do not use fertilizer. Although parsley will do well inside, it will not be as strong and full as when it grows outdoors. The curly-leafed variety is the prettiest, the flat-leafed type the tastiest.

If you do not have a plant to bring in from the garden, it should be easy to get one from a nursery.

ROSE GERANIUM
Best-known and easiest to find of the fragrant-leaved geraniums is the rose geranium. The leaves are useful in potpourris, sachets and in bouquets, and they are soothing in the tub. A bit of leaf in a cup of tea gives an indescribable fragrance. If you don't know how to use it in apple jelly and cakes.

Start new plants with cuttings from an established plant. Since they are sensitive to cold, you must bring rose geraniums indoors in the winter.

ROSEMARY
Rosemary, the herb of poetry and legend, is not easy to grow, but it is worth the trouble. Grown in a pot as a house plant, it may be less than a foot tall and its lower branches will fall gracefully over the sides of the pot. The leaves resemble long, oval pine needles, particularly when dried. The leaves of rosemary are more fragrant than the flowers, and when gently crushed, they will give off the warm odor of pine.

Rosemary is a tropical plant, and it must be cut back, potted and brought indoors before frost. Your first plant should be purchased from a nursery as it is hard to start rosemary from seed.

SAGE
If you can find a small sage bush, it may be brought indoors. Its furry grey-green leaves are attractive and its fragrance pleasant. Although you will probably use sage which you dried during the summer, a growing plant gives a nice variation in hue to your indoor garden.

TARRAGON
Tarragon must be brought in for the winter in most climates, and may be set back in the garden in the spring. Early in the summer, start new plants from cuttings, for tarragon does not set seed which will germinate. Plunge the new plants in the earth, pots and all, and let them grow during the summer. When the first heavy frost causes the leaves to fall, you can trim back the stems and transfer the plants to larger pots for wintering indoors. Its young leaves are delicious in eggs, fish, meat and poultry dishes and salads. Plants must be purchased at a nursery.

THYME
Thyme will thrive in your window. Use it sparingly, in poultry stuffings, stuffed peppers, onions, zucchini squash, in meat and fish dishes. Start thyme from seed, and make sure that it has a sunny spot in which to grow.

Growing An Indoor Herb Garden

Instead of planting a big outdoor herb garden consider planting one indoors. Many smaller varieties and dwarf varieties of herbs grow quite well in small pots that can be placed on a kitchen window sill. Now when you are cooking you do not have to run to your outside garden to pick a few herbs to add to your cooking. You can just simply turnaround and grab a few leaves!

It's easy to grow your own indoor herb garden. Many kits are available that have everything that you need to get started. Look for the chia herb garden which is a fun way to get the kids involved too. You can enjoy the same benefits that you would outside, but with a few distinct advantages with an indoor herb garden.

Advantages Of An Indoor Herb Garden

With an indoor herb garden you can easily monitor your plants. You will notice quickly if they need any maintenance. If they need a quick misting you can accomplish the task with little effort. Outdoor gardens are more frequently overlooked. Indoors you will not have issues with bugs eating the leaves of your herbs. You will not have to contend with trying to find a safe chemical that can be used to treat your herbs to keep bugs away.

You can do it within the comfort of your own home when it is time to harvest all of your fresh herbs. You will not have to deal with mosquitoes or other bugs while you are trying to garden.

When you plant an indoor herb garden you can bring in the wonderful fragrance that they provide. Now your kitchen will smell delicious like fresh basil or rosemary. Being surrounded by the fragrances of an indoor herb garden might even inspire your cooking. Instead of using dried herbs that have been sitting in a cabinet, any meals you do cook will now taste even better as you will be able to add fresh herbs.

Having an indoor herb garden will also protect any other plants that might be in your garden. Known to be extremely invasive are some species of herbs. Once they start growing they are hard to stop and before you know it your herb garden has taken over. By planting your herbs in small individual pots inside you can control its spreading.

Plants can make indoor spaces feel warm and cozy. Why not add a few practical plants to your kitchen to achieve the same result. You can generate an inviting atmosphere while growing herbs to use in your cooking.

Growing your own indoor herb garden is simple. Several kits are available that have everything that you need to get started. Now when you are cooking you do not have to run to your outside garden to choose a few herbs to add to your cooking.

Starting A Herb Garden :: How to start a herb garden indoors

Learn how to plan an herb garden and start seeds indoors before the growing season begins. You will have strong seedlings ready to transplant right after the last frost.

Even while the cold winters are still keeping eager gardeners indoors, there is plenty of work to be done. Winter is the best time to plan and start an herb garden. By planning the garden and starting seeds indoors weeks before the last frost, gardeners can, in effect, stretch the growing season, while ensuring the greatest possible yield from their plants.

As with any garden project, the first step is deciding what plants to include in your new garden. A logical starting point is the location of the plot. Will this bed receive adequate light? Most herbs require full sun to thrive, but a few can tolerate some shade. Check the area at different times throughout the day to determine whether it receives continuous or only partial sun. Keep in mind that light patterns may change with the seasons. An area that receives unobstructed sunlight in the winter and early spring may be in shade during the summer when trees have their leaves.

Next, determine which herbs you would like to grow. Decide if you are interested in growing herbs for culinary, medicinal, or aesthetic uses, or a combination. Refer to a good gardening book for descriptions of each herb, and start a chart showing how tall and wide each plant grows, how much space it requires between plants, and any other specific information about their characteristics. This is very important, since some plants have specific growing requirements. For instance, mint and violets are highly invasive, so these herbs might be better suited to containers rather than the garden itself.

Once armed with this information, you’re ready to design your garden. First, outline the dimensions of the bed on graph paper. Then indicate where you want each plant to go using circles with the plant’s name written inside. It may take more than one attempt if this is your first design effort, so try to enjoy the creative process.

If you have the luxury of space, you might try a formal design, with a birdbath or other focal point in the center, and gravel paths or stone walkways dividing the growing area surrounding it. Otherwise, simply arrange the plants according to height, so that the tallest ones will not cast shadows on the shorter ones. Be sure to consider how you will get to the farther plants, allowing enough room for you to pass among the herbs to tend and harvest them. Also, remember to space plants the proper distance apart; some will not grow well when crowded.

When you are happy with your new garden design, count the number of each plant that appears in it, and prepare a master list. Then purchase the supplies needed to start your plants from seed indoors. This will include seeds; starter trays, which have multiple compartments for starting many seeds in a small amount of space; enough peat pots for the number of plants you intend to grow; plastic liner trays to hold the peat pots; and a good soil mix. This is much lighter and less dense than regular potting soil, making it easier for the tender new roots to grow. If you are not sure how much soil mix to buy, ask an associate at your garden center. He or she can advise you on how much is needed to fill the starter trays and the number and size peat pots you are purchasing.

Some beginners like to start more plants than they need to fill their garden, and this is a good idea. If some plants don’t survive, the surplus will save you from having bare spots in the garden. If all your plants make it, you can always give the extras to family, friends, and neighbours, who will be glad for your talent and generosity.

Seed manufacturers recommend starting your seeds eight to twelve weeks before the date of your last frost. Check your seed packets for specific recommendations. When you are ready to begin, fill your starter trays with the soil mix. (An alternative to purchasing starter trays is to use egg cartons. Be sure to punch several small holes in each compartment for drainage.) Add a seed to each compartment, planting them to the depth specified on the seed packets. Mist to wet the soil. Seeds require warmth in order to germinate, so arrange your trays in a warm, well-ventilated room. Keep the soil moist. Germination time varies from one plant to another, so your seeds will not all sprout at precisely the same time.

While you’re waiting, prepare to meet the lighting requirements of your plants. Although very elaborate and expensive lighting systems are available for indoor gardening, many growers have found that simple fluorescent shop lights cost much, much less and are equally effective. The light must be suspended about 30 centimeters from the top of the plants, so you must be able to raise the lights as the plants grow. As soon as your seeds begin to sprout, move the trays to their new home beneath the lights.

When your plants have sprouted their first set of true leaves, they should be transplanted into the peat pots. Place the pots in the plastic trays, then add water to the tray. It will take awhile, but eventually the water will be soaked up along the sides of the pots and throughout the soil mix. This is called bottom watering and is much better than top watering, since it will not cause the starter mix and seeds to run out of the pots. Bottom watering also encourages the new roots to reach downward.

Your plants must be hardened off before they can be planted in the garden. This means they are become acclimated to the temperature, wind and light differences between your house and the outdoors. After the last-frost date, take your seedlings outdoors for a few hours each day, leaving them in a spot where they will be sheltered from the sun and wind. After a few days, slowly expose them to the sun and wind, a little more each day, over the course of a week or two. This will allow them to make the adjustment without going into shock. Then, using your design sketch, transplant your seedlings into their permanent home in the garden.

Starting an herb garden indoors is an easy and creative way to stretch the growing season. With a little forethought and planning, growers can have herb seedlings ready to plant and the garden bed ready to receive them first thing next spring.

Starting A Herb Garden

Having access to a small herb garden can be as simple as having a nice large squatty pot just outside your kitchen door containing a few of your favorite herbs containing sweet basil, purple leaf basil, chives and flat leaf parsley.

Your food preference tastes should dictate what you would like to grow. Two favorites that almost everyone would agree upon are parsley and chives. Their mild flavors are very versatile and can be used in any variety of cuisine.

Perhaps you want your mini garden within arms reach of your cooking area. All you have to do is design a window box or group of planters for your kitchen. When creating this mini herb garden, decide where your box will be located.

The amount of sun that you get in the chosen window will dictate which herbs to select. Northern exposures are generally sunny and hot. Good choices are are thyme, coriander, French lavender, bay laurel, basil, lemon verbena, dill, parsley, chives, sage and rosemary. A nice combination of both upright and trailing herbs is attractive, so consider adding creeping thymes or oregano or to you mini garden for a little eye appeal.

Souther exposures will provide more shade and are not as warm. Shade loving plants that will work nice here include parsley, spearmint, peppermint, lemon balm, chives, borage, and Cuban oregano.

Fill your container(s) half full of potting soil mix with equal parts of potting soil, peat moss and vermiculite. Move and place plants until you are pleased with how the design looks. Remember to keep in mind the mature sizes of the plants and what their growth habits are. Do not place a
plant that will mature at 50 centimeters in front of a plant that will mature no taller than 5 centimeters. Don't fear mixing plants together - it will not hurt anything.

Once you have settled on the placement of the plants, add potting soil to about 2 centimeters below the rim of the container. Tamp the soil down firmly and liberally water. Pinch back any large growth to promote thick growth.

Patio Herbs

When planning an herb garden outside, you can start modestly with a few pots on the patio or located on a bakers rack. Some herbs like sage, thyme and mint are available in different colors, so that you can make an attractive bed in various shades.

Construct the bed as close as possible to the house, so you do not neglect to gather the herbs for cooking during wet weather. Whenever possible, grow each type of herb in a separate pocket. You can actually divide the bed into distinct pockets with dwarf hedges of lavender or you can use concrete or stone pavers or stones to add a landscaped design. This way, herbs may easily be reached by footpaths and easily replaced without disturbing other plants that are nearby. Keeping plants harvested insures thick and hearty growth.

Since most herbs grow well in full sun to part shade, choose a spot for your garden that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Make sure there is good drainage and easy accessibility. When planning your garden, take into consideration the height and sizes of herbs.

Growing Herbs Organically

People choose to grow herbs because of limited gardening space and the need for fresh herbs But before rushing out to the nearest garden center, consider several factors.

• Are culinary herbs the only consideration?
• Would herbs that traditionally are used to heal be included?
• Do native herbs appeal or have a place in the landscape?
• Has the mature size of the herb been investigated?
• Is a plot available, or will the plants always live in pots?
• Are the plants to be propagated for sale, or are they only for home use?

Visit garden centers and friends who have mature herb plants, study herb magazines, and read herb books. With the exception of native herbs, the soil where the herbs are to flourish should be soft, dark and rich. Some culinary herbs need more moisture and less heat than others. Most native herbs need a dry soil and welcome the sun. If planning formal herb gardens, prepare the bed at least a month before planting. Work the soil in the beds to a third of a meter deep or more, turning the soil. Then remove the soil, divide it in half and mix compost with the remainder. Add a small amount of manure to the soil and compost material. Mix well before filling the bed.

If the plot chosen has never been broken and is hard and dry, loosen the particles and allow water to penetrate the hardpan, water it liberally, let it set for 2 or 3 weeks, watering occasionally. The soil will be easier to dig. After the soil has been removed, layer the bottom of the bed with a layer of well-rotted manure. Various kinds of nutrients can be added to the mixture. Use small amounts of soil sulphur to break up heavy soil, kelp or fish meal adds nitrogen and phosphoric acid and potash, bloodmeal is a slow nitrogen release, bonemeal for root growth has 10% phosphoric acid for sturdy root development, soft rock phosphate promotes strong roots and vigorous top growth, and cottonseed meal adds nitrogen, phosphate and potassium.

Choose an irrigation system. Install it before planting seedlings or seeds. Annuals will need regular moisture, but perennials will establish deep roots after the first year. Wind dries the soil quickly, and seeds must be sprinkled several times a day, or the seeds will not germinate. Young plants are very tender, so seeds should be sown in the early spring. Birds love fresh greens! To avoid stress on seedlings, plant in an evening or on an overcast windless day. Using a row cover will also help the young plants survive.

For filling pots, buy the best soil mix available. Potted herbs will need frequent watering and fertilizing. A layer of mulch over the soil will help retain moisture. Follow the garden center's advice when transplanting native plants. A drip system can be established to meet the plants requirements. Set several filled pots near each other, making sure the various herbs are compatible.

Plants such as basil and parsley, whose leaves are constantly being removed, need a foiliar feed with a good quality fish emulsion every two or three weeks. Also herbs such as basil and the mints will need the flower tips pinched off, so the plant will continue growing new leaves and not go to seed.
Since the leaves and/or flowers are to be eaten, use caution about controlling pests. Herbs have strong scents and are used as companion plants for vegetables, but when they live alone, the pest could destroy the herbs. Some herbs are subject to root rot.

Mediterranean culinary herbs will need afternoon shade, and attention to moisture needs, especially until well established. Dill and fennel are among those herbs that will reseed year after year. Let some plants flower to attract bees and other beneficial insects. Parsley, dill, fennel, and lemon balm attract bees. Experiment with herbs those herbs that would not grow this year might flourish next year. Weather conditions cannot be predicted from year to year. And don't forget have fun!

ANISE HYSSOP is known as the honey plant because bees are attracted to the blossoms. The perennial can be started from seed or division. It needs a sunny well drained spot, fertile soil, and regular moisture to thrive. Leaves can be used either fresh or dried for tea or garnish.

BASIL is a fast-growing annual that can reach nearly a meter high. Prune to keep the plant bushy. Green ruffled leaves, red or purple leaves, and various flavors and scents are available. The leaves can be dried, or frozen for future use. Plant from seed when the ground is warm. It needs well-drained rich soil and compost.

If you have space, plant a BAY tree. At maturity it is 4 meters high, but can be can be potted and pruned. Since it prefers moist heat, give it dappled shade. Leaves can be dried and stored for soups and stews or used as insect repellent.

BEE BALM is known by many names: bergamot, monarda, and Oswego tea are a few. Hummingbirds and butterflies are attracted to the flowers. This perennial likes a moist soil and summer shade. Use the orange-flovored leaves fresh or dried in tea and salads.

BORAGE can grow to a meter high and wide. Since the leaves have bristly white hairs, plant it in a corner. Bees love the blue scentless flower. Borage repels insects and diseases in neighboring vegetation Use the young leaves and the flowers in salads..

BURNET leaves have a cucumber-like taste when picked while young. Cut the flower stems to ensure new leaves. This hardy perennial needs routine water and fertile soil with dappled shade. The lacy clumps reach a foot high and two feet wide, and can be used as ground cover or for borders. Use in salads, iced or hot tea, herb butters, and flavored vinegars.

CHAMOMILE comes in two forms. One, German (Matricaria recutita) is a tall annual, a meter high. Chamaemelum nobile, or Roman, is a short perennial and has a stronger fragrance. Currently it is used as a tea for nerves. The apple scent benefits cucumbers and onions. Both plants like well prepared soil, evenly moist, and shade in the heat.

CHICORY's bright blue flowers can be added to salads, but close after five hours from opening. The perennial reseeds easily, loves rich soil, but will grow in poor soil with less water. Use young tender leaves raw in salads, in cooked vegetables, and stir-fry dishes.

CHIVES are perennials in the desert. The cousins onions, garlic and shallots, contain Allicin, a germ killer. Garlic has the most, then onion, and small amounts in the rest. All species help deter aphids, so they can be planted anywhere in the landscape, except among legumes and sage. Use the flowers, fresh or dried, in salads and vinegars. Chop the leaves into egg dishes.

CILANTRO, the plant, or Coriander, the seeds are used widely The leaves have a strong sharp flavour, and most pests avoid the plants. The flowers attract pollinators. Keep planting seeds every two or three weeks. The plants grow fast in the heat. Use fresh leaves, not dried. Cilantro has long roots and is compatible with caraway. Too much Nitrogen robs the leaves of flavor.

The roots of COMFREY grow deeply, but needs plenty of water and shade. Plants may die back with frost, but roots remain. Bushy to a meter high, with hairy mineral rich leaves which decompose quickly, the plant is not to be eaten. The protein Allantoin, promotes healing to bind cuts. Comfrey can be quite invasive in a small garden and may be best grown in pots.

DILL has feathery foliage reaching a meter high and has a pungent scent when bruised. Sow seeds in full sun at 2 week intervals. It produces seeds the second year of growth. Dill enhances the growth of cabbage, onion and lettuce, but keep away from carrots and tomatoes. Bees will visit the yellow flowers.

Fennel, a relative of dill, grows taller but has a pleasant licorice scent. When fennel flowers, expect many bees. Fennel roots are toxic to many plants. Sow seeds in a corner where weeds might grow. The plants have deterred rabbits in gardens. Keep away from beans and peppers. Fennel tea is used for colicky babies, to soothe the stomach ache, and to regulate appetite.

GARLIC bulbs are grown as an annual, in well-drained soil with full sun and regular moisture. Buy a bulb, separate the cloves, plant base down with roses and other plants that attract aphids. After flowering, leaves turn yellow. Dig with care. Let the bulbs dry. To store, braid the leaves and hang. Elephant garlic has a milder flavor.

LEMON BALM belongs to the mint family, thus it spreads by underground and surface stems. Light shade and moist soil are its two requirements. Beekeepers often have the plant growing near hives. As with mint, cut back the leggy plants for young leaves to grow.

MARJORAM is a mint relative. The leaves and flavor resembles oregano, but has a different aroma. This Mediterranean native likes full sun, well-drained soil and average water requirements. Cut back the twiggy parts to overwinter.

MINTS thrive in part shade and with regular moisture. The roots can be invasive, causing many people to plant mints in pots.. Go lightly with organic matter and manure as these encourage rust. The roots grow rapidly and the plant will get leggy. Sprinkle fresh mint leaves to drive away mice. Mints come in many scents and flavors. Use in iced and hot tea, jelly, vinegars, salads and deserts.

NASTURTIUM flowers brighten winter days, but plants may die in summer's heat. Use both leaves and flowers as the peppery taste adds to salads. The large seeds grow easily. Seedlings do not transplant well. These annuals can vine or grow bushy. Colors range from white to deep orange and double reds. The root system deters some nematodes.

OREGANO can be a low-growing mat or tall bushy plants. Roots spread by underground stems. Dry or freeze the spicy leaf. Oregano prefers a slightly alkaline soil and heat. Plants can be started from seed, from cuttings or from division. The flavour of beans is enhanced when planted near oregano.

PARSLEY clumps make an attractive edging. Its leaves are used in a wide variety of foods, and can be dried or frozen. Good soil with afternoon shade and regular moisture are required.

ROSEMARY has a woody stem which will easily make new plants. The fragrant stiff needle-leaves pierce soft skins of snails and slugs. Use the low-growing variety as a hedge. Soft blue flowers attract bees. Plants can take reflected heat. The upright rosemary is for culinary use.

SAGE encourages the growth of carrots, cabbage, strawberries, and tomatoes, but not onions. Many varieties are available. The plants like full sun and do not require fertile soil. Water only until mature. Cut back in spring to prevent flowering. Use dried leaves in soups and as an insect repellent in flours and meals.

THYME is of the mint family, but needs well-drained soil, moderate watering, and afternoon shade. All varieties benefit eggplant, potatoes and tomatoes. None grow higher than 45 centimeters high. Cabbage worms and whiteflies are repelled. The fragrant blossoms attract bees.

Many gardeners believe, the leaves of YARROW increase the essential oils of other herbs, Its flowers attract predatory wasps and lady beetles. The plants thrive in full sun and poor soil, but will produce more flowers in better soil and moderate moisture. Choose from many varieties.